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Removing Greddy turbos without extracting engine ??

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Old May 16, 2010 | 02:41 PM
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Default Removing Greddy turbos without extracting engine ??

I did a search but couldn't find anything, is this possible, my seals on the driver side turbo might be done and I'm trying to figure out how much I'm looking at ...
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Old May 16, 2010 | 02:52 PM
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is it possible? yes. people have made the kit fit with the engine still in place.. im sure they can be removed as well. its a PITA
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Old May 16, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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If you have small hands.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 02:58 PM
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I had to do it once. I made a custom wrench.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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patience and custom tools lol
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Old May 16, 2010 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cersoft
I did a search but couldn't find anything, is this possible, my seals on the driver side turbo might be done and I'm trying to figure out how much I'm looking at ...
Uhoh!
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Old May 16, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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It is definitely doable. Removing the front cross bar and removing the bolts/lowering the steering rack a bit will make the job much easier.

Last edited by Chris@FsP; May 16, 2010 at 05:07 PM.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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Take a look at your hands, normal right. After you take them off with the motor in you will have many scars and cuts on your knuckles. Major PITA!
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Old May 16, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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scars and cuts FTW
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Old May 17, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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Well i installed my kit with the motor in the car and it was a major pita but it can be done.Just go and get some cheap wrenches and bend cut and whatever to make them work.............oh and dont forget the bandaid's. and the cussing and throwing of said tools.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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Thanks for all of the advice
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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The reason I went Vortech instead of Turbo....although the boosted performance system was VERY tempting.
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Old May 18, 2010 | 07:02 PM
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it should be alot easier to take it out with the motor in the car.

some of the hardest parts in installing the Greddy TT with the motor in the car is getting some of the nuts into place and then tightening them. taking them off will be alot easier.

as I recall, I had to glue a nut to the end of my finger so that I could get the nut inplace (turbine housing to exhaust manifold). otherwise, the nut would fall every time I tried to get in there. So, you won't have to do any other that BS to remove the nuts.....just let 'em fall!!
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Old May 18, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by QuadCam

as I recall, I had to glue a nut to the end of my finger so that I could get the nut inplace
that's awesomely ingenuitive wish i would have thought of that lol
+1 on the cuts and cussing. You can look at the pics on my thread to see how the space looks
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...pic-heavy.html

the hard part was putting the exhaust manifolds on with the engine in the car. Oh and if the wastegates aren't relocated... sorry. thats a pita.
as far as getting the turbo off, it really isnt that bad.

ross
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Old May 30, 2010 | 06:42 PM
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So we got around to doing the leakdown test today and results are :-

14%, 16%, 20%, 22%, 16%, 25% for cylinders 1 -> 6

a little looser that I would have hoped but not disasterous right ?!???

Spark plugs look like this ..



Next step is to drill out the pcv valve as it is restricting flow and that is what is causing my smokey joe issues ...

Anyone want to comment on the numbers or plugs?
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Old May 31, 2010 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by cersoft
So we got around to doing the leakdown test today and results are :-

14%, 16%, 20%, 22%, 16%, 25% for cylinders 1 -> 6

a little looser that I would have hoped but not disasterous right ?!???

Spark plugs look like this ..



Next step is to drill out the pcv valve as it is restricting flow and that is what is causing my smokey joe issues ...

Anyone want to comment on the numbers or plugs?
Not great, but not bad. If the power is there, and it's not consuming much oil I would not be concerned.

How are you looking in terms of power output and oil consumption?
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Not great, but not bad. If the power is there, and it's not consuming much oil I would not be concerned.

How are you looking in terms of power output and oil consumption?
Thanks, yeah, power is still epic and I will certainly keep an eye on the oil consumption, I think that my biggest source of oil usage right now is the crank case pressure pushing oil back past the rings.

My current thoughts are that as an engine gets looser the pcv valve will not open soon enough / sufficiently under higher vaccuum situations, I'm gonna drill that sucker out as I have check valves in place only allowing flow into plenum and towards intake. The rest of my pcv / catchcan system will be a mirror of rcdash's system, breather on driver's side, pull from plenum and driver's side intake for vacuum / boost pull.

What do you think is your ideal pcv setup for a setup similar to mine (Greddy twins) ??
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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Update: So whilst driving I have been 100% without smoke or oil smell but each time I crank it (either hot or cold) I get quite an impressive cloud of smoke, this is quite annoying ...

Tonight I will unhook plenum suction and see if it still happens, I need to figure out where the oil is coming from ...

Any ideas?
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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I removed my pass side manifold/turbo once because the manifold cracked and needed replaced. I then took the entire kit out by myself in the garage to sell it last May. The only tool I had to make custom was either a 12 or 10mm box end wrench bent 90 deg. Did the rest with normal tools. Took me about 9 hours total. The manifold studs and 1 bolt holding the turbos to the manifold will be your biggest problem.
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Old Jun 1, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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Are we talking about the 18 G or 20 G turbos
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