For those with the APS ST (not certain if same applies to dual turbo)
4 weeks ago my oil pressure gauge began to flutter and then the gauge read zero. I was able to pull over and confirm I had oil. I got the z towed home and thought it was the sending unit. However, it was not the case. The APS ST system has a brass fitting from the block to a GOYEN OIL CONTROL SOLENOID that when energized opens the valve allowing oil to flow to the sending unit and the turbo. When ignition off it closes and prevents oil from flowing to the turbo and settling there.

Test: I removed the solenoid and used the battery to energize it and it would not open the valve.

Solution - there are several options but here are two:
1. GTM sells a oil control solenoid that is supposed to be a direct replacement.
COST: $300.00
2. I contacted GOYEN and spoke to a rep about the solenoid and after discussion I located a vendor online called duradiesel.com and ordered W025B08 which is a 12v normally closed 1/4" inlent and 1/4" outlet that meets the expected flow rate and exceeds the temperature expectations of the motor.
cost: $30.00 with shipping.
*** funny note the solenoid design is identical to the GOYEN in design.

I then re wired the harness to fit into the plug from the APS kit and 2 wks later IT'S PERFECT.

 

 

interesting... but do u think it will last ??!!!!

its too good (cheap solution. from 300 to 30 ) to be true ....

anyways .. good info for those who still rocking the APS ST and face issues with the solenoid

 

Personally I would not trust a solenoid valve, no matter who made it and no matter how expensive it is.

I have seen dozens of them fail over and over at work. We use them on pneumatics, hot water, cold water, oil, chemical, steam... and they just don't last.

The only thing that works are pneumatic valve actuators, but they cost a few $$$$.

 

do you include one in the kits you sell?

 

no, he just uses a oil reservoir under the turbo so excess oil pools there and not at the seals.

 

Correct. It would be cheaper and easier to use a solenoid than to build a reservoir, but I refuse to do that.

 

ahhh gotcha. for $30, it's not too bad to replace. i had to replace mine once already, cost me about $300.

 

What is the purpose of such solenoid? To me, the more unnecessary electrical parts, the more risk of failure.

Why not just put a check valve? less than 20 bucks.

 

follow up...all has gone well. NO LEAKS...daily driver in Texas heat.

 

word

 

that's awesome news, cause i think mine is going too. my car sat for 2 weeks and when i went to drive it last night it wouldn't start. ran to autozone for a replacement battery, swapped it out, and car started up fine. was driving back to the auto store to return my old battery and my oil light went off and my pressure gauge was reading 0. pulled over, checked the dip stick for oil level and was fine. no oil behind the car on the ground at all. started the car and oil pressure was back.

 

strange that you guys are getting readings of 0.. on mine the gauge is pinned to the max