I am not sure on the miles, probably something close to yours... but my car sits in the garage and i only go pick it up to take it out racing.

there arent many other things to cause the rings to leak... i guess you can wash them out by running too rich... i am not sure i have ever had it happen to me but from what i have heard, too rich for too long, mostly if the car idles and cruises rich... i guess the oil in the hone gets washed away by all the fuel and causes glazing of the hone and rings. but like i said its something i have only read about, havent knowingly had it happen to me tho I was suspect to it on my high horsepower 94 civic but never tore down to investigate before i sold.

 

Just to clarify, I idle at 14.8, my WOT tune is stop on 11.5, the only time that I really see any richness is when Utec transitions from closed to open loop ...

Anyways, thanks for theorizing

I have new gaskets and breather filters on the way, in the mean time I'm gonna wire tuck the main engine harness ... even if it's smokey it's gonna be pretty

 

OP by any chance you have a video clip or can you take a clip of the smoke coming out the crank case when pcv system is unplugged. Would be cool to compare, cuz I got a lil smoke too, but normal.

 

As soon as I get my engine back together from doing the wiretuck I will take a video for sure.

 

How about a write up on your wire tuck as well? I'ld like to see how difficult this would be to do.

 

Updated pics in this thread ...

https://my350z.com/forum/8443979-post7.html

 

Ok! So after reading 4+ years of talk on how to vent your crankcase and going insane about it, i've learned that many great methods are being used depending on the application.

For me: Before I get started, or shall I say finished because I just ripped out everything and starting over...

What is more important in regards to a FI'd engine. Myself Vortech, Which of the two is most important?

1. Allowing the crankcase to have an oversized open place to release all CC pressure during boost

OR

2. Having a vacuum source steadly pulling fumes out and dealing with the recirculation?

I remember rcdash saying he had better piston ring seal when the CC was under a little vacume. Then again you are lowering your octane level a bit by recirc.


Basically, should I toss the catch can all together, vent both valve covers as much as I can, cap the manifold inlet. Leaving all the crap to vent on it's own.

OR

Run a catch can after the passenger pcv, keeping the inside diameter small (because I dont want to empty a CC everyweek), but pulling the crap out instead.

Can't find a medium. Except maybe combining both vacume sources (manifold front w/ checkvalve, and intake pre- boost), from a catch can, from a drilled out pcv.
But the hole in the valve cover is not much larger than the pcv inside diameter anyway. Grrrrrr....This is drivng me nuts

 

I am no expert but in my opinion I dont think its about whats important rather than what one would prefer.

I have had some experience with the whole crank case venting issue, I had it vented for about 3 years on my previous engine and no issues. The only problem with venting to atmosphere is that, it STINKS lol, although I have not tried a catchcan better then the home depot air/water seperator, so a more expensive device would prob keep smell and fumes down.

I then hooked up the pcv because i got tired of my girlfriend telling me her hair was smelly after every ride in the car lol. I left the front (with oil cap) valve cover vented to atmosphere, and the back hooked up to manifold. Worked great, but then I discoverd the valve cover had developed oil leaks. Looks like the port on the valve cover that is supposed to go into the stock intake (before TB) is not sufficient to vent. So what I did is unhooked the hoses that connect both valve covers, and I also drilled and made a new port, half inch barb like in this picture (below the oil cap), zero oil leak, no pressure build up. Smells bad but I dont care anymore.



I can still hook up the PCV to the manifold so when not in boost it will still recirculate, then in boost the pcv closes and vents out the ports. I just dont wanna deal with leaky pcv and check valve(i dont trust it).

 

Very nice...is exactly what I want. Looks like have to take off valve cover for that job. Is that epoxy you used to make that nice lookin like weld? Are you putting any kind of filter over that 1/2 " barb?

If you could take a few more pics I would really appreciate it. I have the same idea for my oil cap as well.

Off to autozone...

 

What you see around the barb is silicone, since a little oil would come out. Yeah you HAVE to take out the valve cover, otherwise you will have plastic shaving all over your cams. I did put a filter over it, I bought one of those ricer filters from auto parts store and fit perfectly over it. Eventually I will put a better filter, like the ones domestic guys use, its better at keeping oil in since it has a little flap that the oil hits so it dosnt blow out liquid.

Here is another picture I have