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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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Default haltech help

i posted this up in my build thread but there wasn't much traffic that way so i figured i'd start a new thread.

need some help from the haltech experts out there. couple problems i think may be tune related, but not 100% certain.

first, when at idle the tach has a tendancy to bounce around from 500rpm's to 1500rpms.

secondly my afr's can vary just as wildly at idle and cruise, i.e. mid 10's to high 17's.

lastly, and i remember seeing another thread around here where op had a similar problem...if i'm cruising at a constant speed and press the gas for a little acceleration, my car goes very lean just for a second and hesitates (like high 16's to 17 afr's) and then richens up to where it should be.

if anybody has some advice for me to test, and/or wants some parameters out of the map to provide advice let me know...i'd be much obliged.

i did have my idle raised to ~900 rpm's which didn't seem to impact anything. i've also been watching this post https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...g-haltech.html but the problems and build aren't identical. also my haltech is running copy-through for vac.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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should be in the tuning section..

do you have O2 correction on? Mine would hunt idle with it on when the tune wasnt very good.

Have you logged your IPW or other corrections at cruise? If thats steady, then probably something wrong with your wideband.

Last edited by str8dum1; Jun 15, 2010 at 12:15 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
should be in the tuning section..

do you have O2 correction on? Mine would hunt idle with it on when the tune wasnt very good.

Have you logged your IPW or other corrections at cruise? If thats steady, then probably something wrong with your wideband.
sorry bout that, mods feel free to move if you like.

i'm not sure if the tuner tried 02 correction or not, so i'll have to check.

i have some logs in .csv format that i got from when the car was tuned, got a recomendation on how i can upload those? it doesn't appear this supports that type of attachment.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SH Luciano
sorry bout that, mods feel free to move if you like.

i'm not sure if the tuner tried 02 correction or not, so i'll have to check.

i have some logs in .csv format that i got from when the car was tuned, got a recomendation on how i can upload those? it doesn't appear this supports that type of attachment.
If it is a forced induction motor, I'm fine with it here. It is FI, right?
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ttg35fort
If it is a forced induction motor, I'm fine with it here. It is FI, right?
correct, aps single turbo, haltech, plus a bunch of other stuff.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SH Luciano
i posted this up in my build thread but there wasn't much traffic that way so i figured i'd start a new thread.

need some help from the haltech experts out there. couple problems i think may be tune related, but not 100% certain.

first, when at idle the tach has a tendancy to bounce around from 500rpm's to 1500rpms. You need to tune the cells around idle more if it's hunting, and possibly tweak the timing as well.

secondly my afr's can vary just as wildly at idle and cruise, i.e. mid 10's to high 17's. Again, needs more fine tuning. Is o2 correction enabled?

lastly, and i remember seeing another thread around here where op had a similar problem...if i'm cruising at a constant speed and press the gas for a little acceleration, my car goes very lean just for a second and hesitates (like high 16's to 17 afr's) and then richens up to where it should be. You need to tune the acceleration enrichment.

if anybody has some advice for me to test, and/or wants some parameters out of the map to provide advice let me know...i'd be much obliged.

i did have my idle raised to ~900 rpm's which didn't seem to impact anything. i've also been watching this post https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...g-haltech.html but the problems and build aren't identical. also my haltech is running copy-through for vac.
Answers in bold. Sounds like you need to take it in for a tune.

Last edited by Chris@FsP; Jun 15, 2010 at 01:03 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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Copy through timing ("C" in cells under high vacuum/idle/cruise) will help stop the idle hunting.

Transient throttle tuning is tedious but you can get it perfect - check the haltech forums if you want to give it a go on your own - there is some good info there . forums.haltech.com
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Copy through timing ("C" in cells under high vacuum/idle/cruise) will help stop the idle hunting.

Transient throttle tuning is tedious but you can get it perfect - check the haltech forums if you want to give it a go on your own - there is some good info there . forums.haltech.com
If the values are all screwed up (which it sounds like it is) it's never gonna idle right, even with o2 correction.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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Oh, and +1 to the Haltech forum!
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 02:25 PM
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Ok, are there actually problems while your WB is reading this way? Does it run poorly or is it possible that your WB just isn't reading properly? Besides the hesitation from cruise to accel that you mentioned.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 07:17 PM
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i HIGHLY suspect my wideband is fine. it's only 2 years old, and has less than 5k miles on it. to add to that, when i was breaking in my motor i was using my unichip which had a rocksolid tune on it (granted i know the wb wasn't impacting the tune). that said, it was reporting values that were very much in line with what my stock block was doing. the car just doesn't run how it should, which lends me to believe it's an issue with the tune in the haltech.

basically i changed 2 items from my break-in period to when the car got tuned. for breakin i had stock aps 440cc injectors and unichip, car ran perfect...though i never boosted so i couldn't say if that was fine or not. then the night before the tune i swapped out for my 830cc deatchwerks and haltech. wot tune is good in terms of timing/afr (low 11's), minus a couple times i went to pass somebody on the highway and overboosted in 5th and 6th gear at like 3k rpm's.
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris@FsP
If the values are all screwed up (which it sounds like it is) it's never gonna idle right, even with o2 correction.
Agreed - was just adding to your advice (not in lieu of).
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Agreed - was just adding to your advice (not in lieu of).
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 10:24 AM
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mother f'er. nothing like shelling out a buttload of money for a sub-par tune. a phone call may be in order.
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SH Luciano
mother f'er. nothing like shelling out a buttload of money for a sub-par tune. a phone call may be in order.
Well, at least your good in the WOT area, just need some more attention in driveablitly factors. Get those boost controller settings checked out too if your overboosting in high gear.
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Brett@AwesomeZ
Well, at least your good in the WOT area, just need some more attention in driveablitly factors. Get those boost controller settings checked out too if your overboosting in high gear.
any thoughts on why my boost is rock solid in 1-4, but 5th and 6th it just keeps climbing? i doubt it'd be a wastegate issue since i dont overboost in 4th...
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 06:27 AM
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Does it continuously overboost or just spike then return to normal?

What boost controller do you have?
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Brett@AwesomeZ
Does it continuously overboost or just spike then return to normal?

What boost controller do you have?
only overboosts in 5th and 6th, and appears to want to continue to add boost but i get out of it asap. using the controller that came with the haltech.
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SH Luciano
only overboosts in 5th and 6th, and appears to want to continue to add boost but i get out of it asap. using the controller that came with the haltech.
Do you know if it's set up closed loop or open loop?
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by SH Luciano
i posted this up in my build thread but there wasn't much traffic that way so i figured i'd start a new thread.

need some help from the haltech experts out there. couple problems i think may be tune related, but not 100% certain.

first, when at idle the tach has a tendancy to bounce around from 500rpm's to 1500rpms.

Does the engine actually rev between 500 and 1500 rpm, or are you saying that the tach is doing something different than the engine?

secondly my afr's can vary just as wildly at idle and cruise, i.e. mid 10's to high 17's.

Will it do this while at a steady cruise? If your A/F is really varying that wildly, you would feel the car surging.


lastly, and i remember seeing another thread around here where op had a similar problem...if i'm cruising at a constant speed and press the gas for a little acceleration, my car goes very lean just for a second and hesitates (like high 16's to 17 afr's) and then richens up to where it should be.

Like the others said, you need more acceleration enrichment.

if anybody has some advice for me to test, and/or wants some parameters out of the map to provide advice let me know...i'd be much obliged.

i did have my idle raised to ~900 rpm's which didn't seem to impact anything. i've also been watching this post https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...g-haltech.html but the problems and build aren't identical. also my haltech is running copy-through for vac.
answers in bold
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