Well your assumption is wrong, I never made the thread out too go against IPP, it was made to see if other IPP motors had blow by however. Knowing the dealer beat the motor was grounds for kyle not to warrent it, Ive spoken with him on the matter back when it happened and weve been in contact during the past few days about my current issues. At no point did I call him or his work out. But please lets keep this out of Chris' thread, your arguing with me is not contributing anything good to this thread.

 

I'm learning where my breaking point is to spend money on a hobby. I'm now learning how to pull and disassemble the motor myself. I would hope the community has learned something from this mess o' fail I have with this car.

To be clear as well, I don't think anyone involved in the last build caused any error at this time. Thinking through it rationally, I would be the last person they would want to mess up on considering my history here.

 

I've always been one too.

 

I have an E90 335i as my daily driver...and it is a big POS!!!! I don't have the overheating issues (yet, my car has the oil cooler), but I have gone through one set of factory turbos in a year and a half of ownership...not too mention all of the misc malfunctions this car has. Im in the shop with it once a month at least...the car is bone stock too...not one mod done to it.

My Cosworth built and boosted G is 100X more reliable than this factory POS BMW. hahaha!!!

To Cass: You don't know me but I have read your threads. I am really sorry to hear this has happened to you again. Best of luck to you with whatever you choose to do from here on out. If you do fix the Z please do run an oil cooler...it does make a big diff in cruising temps and temps under heavy boost.

 

I agree fully.

It's time to take a step back and quit finger pointing builders and shops on their build quality, and instead take a look at the build sheet which is the ONLY common factor at this point.

 

Hey Cass, What kind of oil were you running when this latest failure occurred ?

Forged set the oil temp alarms on my defi setup in the G35 APS-TT for ~230 degs IIRC, and I could reach that temp in the heat of summer and pushing the car hard in the mountains around north AL. When the oil temp alarm did go off, one could not help but see/hear it and just slow down then the temps would drop quickly to around 190-210 which is what it typically settled to in the summer heat

Edit: Those numbers are what I saw running ~475 whp with a Koyo radiator and an oil cooler.

 

Chris,

What kind of EGT's are you running at vacuum over 3krpm?

If your EMS is overly retarding the timing at vacuum your EGT's will run through the roof, superheating your turbos and oil...

I see evidence of a blown turbo seal and possible manifold leak (according to what you said) which would EASILY happen over time in this scenario..

On my UTEC this happened to me - the tuner put fixed timing values in the vacuum column which caused my EGT's to go sky high when cruising over 3k rpm. When I put the vacuum column to bypass (ECU controlled) the EGT dropped to normal at all RPM's...

The A/F was spot on in both scenarios and the car drove the same... I would have never known if it weren't for my EGT gauge.

I don't lknow how the ViPEC controls timing in vacuum but this is seriously something to look into. I'm not saying it is the root cause but it could play a significant part in the fail. An oil cooler would have only prolonged the destruction...

 

I am sure if Chris does build again...he will stick to basics this time.....Stick to whats been proven....you know what I am saying Chris

 

I would at least go with Uprev on the stock ECU initially if a rebuild is in order. Remove as many variables as possible.

 

Paul - I was running Mobil 15w50 when I first noticed the initial pressure drop, the Mobil 0w40 when it failed the next day.

Unknown EGTs - no gauge. I will ask Franz about the timing at vacuum.

The oil on the drivers side IC pipe was minimal and is somewhat normal in the APS kit from what I have heard. It was not much at all.

The motor is out (thanks jtgli) and the exhaust leak was a loose nut on the rear of the pass side manifold. I could turn it with my hand

 

Straight from the horse's mouth. That's the kind of stuff that's never posted on e90post.
Like I said on g35driver before there is a whole lot of people selling those even heavily modded under 50k miles and always say some BS reason for selling. "I'm selling bc I'm moving."

Cant be surprised neither. It's BMWs first run at turbo charging. Toyota and Nissan been turbo charging cars for decades.

This is former lease.

 

Hahaha!!! I want to sell my 335i...only because I hate it! Seriously its a big POS...even the service guys at BMW say the car is crap (in a round about way). I will never buy another BMW. BTW this is not BMW's first foray into turbocharging...the old 2002's (I think they were made in the 70's) were turbocharged and they were very succesful with that car in Germany...I don't believe that particular model of 2002 came to the U.S. though.

 

That 2002 one was here also I think. But that's it. Don't know of any other turbo production car they made.

Sorry OP for being OT.

 

Yes sorry for the OT.

 

I saw 240 oil temps this weekend running the car on the highway :hmm: and running at the drag strip I never made more then 2 back to back passes and saw ~225. Once my oil cooler is on I am hoping to drop ~20 deg.

I cant even imagine what temps your oil saw chris.

 

At this point Chris i think you said the magic words "Oli cooler" I'm hearin temps are way up in the 90s in MD just think at what temps your turbos + engine heat is causin to the oil temps (Pre-maturely) breakin it down to nothin.. Im truly suprised that number 3rd on your list of parts wasn't a oil cooler.


Facts..

Thermal Breakdown. In a mechanical working environment, the temperature of the lubricant is a primary concern. In addition to separating the moving parts of the machinery, the lubricant must also dissipate heat. This means the lubricant will sometimes be heated above its recommended stable temperature. Overheating can cause the light ends of the lubricant to vaporize or the lubricant itself to decompose. This can cause certain additives to be removed from the system without performing their job, or the viscosity of the lubricant may increase.

At temperatures greatly exceeding the thermal stability point of the lubricant, larger molecules will break apart into smaller molecules. This thermal cracking, often referred to as thermal breakdown, can initiate side reactions, induce polymerization, produce gaseous by-products, destroy additives and generate insoluble by-products. In some cases, thermal degradation will cause a decrease in viscosity.


The list on here gives you the flash point of most oil weights

http://www.exol.rs/en/motor-oils.htm

some other links

http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm

 

^^ lance the scientist LMFAO

I think the high quality oil Chris uses prevents any major breakdown (which would have been evident in UOA), but the bearings just can't handle the heat... bearings are the first to go when temps get too hot. Stock bearings are ESPECIALLY sensitive -- so I will say oil coolers are equally important for both stock and built block.

Just look at Barnabas's post -- he's seeing elevated, possibly dangerous temps just cruising down the freeway out of boost. Even moderate drag racing doesn't produce such temps...

And we have no idea what kind of EGT's chris was running with his ECU/Tune which also have a huge affect on oil temps for big oil cooled turbos. Pulling too much timing in closed loop will shoot temps through the roof.

 

All this talk of oil coolers makes me want to get another one. Couldn't hurt to have two.

 

Bro BMW 1st turbo production car was in 1972 with the 2002s (turbo) making 170hp at 5,800rpm.. get teh facts right.

 

After readin up on all this im gettin the feeling that we should use more heavy weight oil (thic syt) to run in our turbo cars.. most seem to have flash points in the 220 230 range.