When is a twin pump needed?
#41
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injector size is independant. As long as your injectors will flow more than the power levels you are going for then they have no part in causing no fuel pressure.
So you really think 600hp on a single pump is safe? I would say 550hp is pushing it to the max and his goals are 550-600.
So you really think 600hp on a single pump is safe? I would say 550hp is pushing it to the max and his goals are 550-600.
as far as which one to get... IMO both SPs and CJM are good, both quality products and both will fbe more than ever needed for ops goals... so probably id focus more on availability
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 07-05-2010 at 03:14 PM.
#42
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cool, i figured it was a miscommunication but i wanted to get it cleared up. Some members might not have as much hands on with stuff as we do so they might think just going up to a larger injector will increase the power they can make on their single pump.
ya, 91 sucks man, that's just pathetic. I have 93 shell always on tap, e85 (for when it finally gets tuned), and we even have a 110 pump about 30 minutes away if i get frisky.
ya, 91 sucks man, that's just pathetic. I have 93 shell always on tap, e85 (for when it finally gets tuned), and we even have a 110 pump about 30 minutes away if i get frisky.
#43
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cool, i figured it was a miscommunication but i wanted to get it cleared up. Some members might not have as much hands on with stuff as we do so they might think just going up to a larger injector will increase the power they can make on their single pump.
ya, 91 sucks man, that's just pathetic. I have 93 shell always on tap, e85 (for when it finally gets tuned), and we even have a 110 pump about 30 minutes away if i get frisky.
ya, 91 sucks man, that's just pathetic. I have 93 shell always on tap, e85 (for when it finally gets tuned), and we even have a 110 pump about 30 minutes away if i get frisky.
#47
Im assuming it doesn't come with the filter.
So now my question is what else will I need with the twin pump assembly to mate this with my AAM return line?
What size of filter is needed and what kind of 2.4ohm resistor is needed (part number if possible)?
So now my question is what else will I need with the twin pump assembly to mate this with my AAM return line?
What size of filter is needed and what kind of 2.4ohm resistor is needed (part number if possible)?
#49
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ok, here's the quick and dirty. stage 3 comes with filter, call charles, tell him what you have. You'll need the twin pump assembly then all the pressure lines going up to the back of the rails. You'll get a filter like the one in this picture. Everything is measured and bolts right up. The 8an line over the exhaust in the front is even insulated. He'll give you a great deal and only sell you the stuff you need. Tell him jeff binder recommended his great customer service and he'll probably give you a good deal. he answered his phone and texts pronto every time i had a question. We had to do extra things since he didn't have a full g35 stage 3 out there and when something didn't fit right he overnighted parts to me at no charge. Now all the bugs are worked out and it's a solid fit.
you could always make your own 8 an line and find your own filter if you want. i just choose the easy way.
also, the hardest part was removing the oem hard pipe. Just cut it with a cutting tool from teh start. I tried to remove it in 1 piece and that was a mistake.
#50
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oh ya, pharm, go to radioshack and just say "i want a 2.4k ohm resistor". They come in packs of 5 for 78 cents. They didn't have any 2.4k at my local place so i got a 2.2k ohm and it works just fine. No codes.
If you are scared of radioshack then send me ur address with 50 cents and i'll mail one to you.
If you are scared of radioshack then send me ur address with 50 cents and i'll mail one to you.
#52
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if you are going with all that setup...you should upgrade turbo ...(fyi not intended to open up that "can" again) ... but really, for that fuel setup its worth it.
That looks familiar.
(mine)
..lolol...actualy happened yesterday on PW..pisses me off 2 lol....btw i saw you look at the FF and 128 question in that thread.. i replied there.
Originally Posted by binder
is this included in the kit or will I need to buy the external filter and lines/fittings?
That looks familiar.
(mine)
Originally Posted by binder
damn stupid fmmdsfslagj internet. i just typed out a book and it killed it.
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 07-06-2010 at 07:32 AM.
#53
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pharm, if you give up on that turbo get a 6262 instead. You can push higher boost than those greddy turbos since it's a billet wheel.
but back on track, even with your 35r you still need the fuel. Plus if next year you do decide to upgrade the turbo you'll be up a creek since you won't have the proper fueling.
raj only did 520ish or so on a single pump. his is a/t so if you add a little bit for manual you might get up to 550 but that will be where you run out of fuel single pump. I'm not sure where people are getting this 600hp single pump numbers unless they are just letting their car get dangerously lean or making up inflated numbers.
but back on track, even with your 35r you still need the fuel. Plus if next year you do decide to upgrade the turbo you'll be up a creek since you won't have the proper fueling.
raj only did 520ish or so on a single pump. his is a/t so if you add a little bit for manual you might get up to 550 but that will be where you run out of fuel single pump. I'm not sure where people are getting this 600hp single pump numbers unless they are just letting their car get dangerously lean or making up inflated numbers.
#54
Registered User
I think that you can make 600rwhp on a single pump....ON THE DYNO....but I wouldn't want to drive around on that tune.....
Tom
Tom
pharm, if you give up on that turbo get a 6262 instead. You can push higher boost than those greddy turbos since it's a billet wheel.
but back on track, even with your 35r you still need the fuel. Plus if next year you do decide to upgrade the turbo you'll be up a creek since you won't have the proper fueling.
raj only did 520ish or so on a single pump. his is a/t so if you add a little bit for manual you might get up to 550 but that will be where you run out of fuel single pump. I'm not sure where people are getting this 600hp single pump numbers unless they are just letting their car get dangerously lean or making up inflated numbers.
but back on track, even with your 35r you still need the fuel. Plus if next year you do decide to upgrade the turbo you'll be up a creek since you won't have the proper fueling.
raj only did 520ish or so on a single pump. his is a/t so if you add a little bit for manual you might get up to 550 but that will be where you run out of fuel single pump. I'm not sure where people are getting this 600hp single pump numbers unless they are just letting their car get dangerously lean or making up inflated numbers.
#55
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I have to add that I had more and more trouble the longer the car sat running on the dyno. After 2 hours running all the baselines and switching from water to W/M, it was heat soaked, voltage seemed low (12.2 v instead of 13.6 v - not sure what that's about), my W/M injection system had an air bubble, I was hot and tired, and I had to leave for ZdayZ the next morning at 6 am. I tried for a solid hour to tune above 16 psi and 6k rpms and it was not happening. Very frustrating after spending the money to rent the dyno for 3 hrs to come away with 10 whp.
The next day at the airstrip, voltage was back up, and car ran great. I ran it at 16 psi to redline and there was no rise in AFR - logged it first thing in the morning. I have the single aux output of the Haltech set to kill the boost solenoid if AFR is greater than 12.2 and boost is greater than 4 psi, and it never went off the entire day. Not sure why heat while on the dyno affected fuel pressure so greatly (pressure dipped into high 20s at high rpms towards the end of the session).
The next day at the airstrip, voltage was back up, and car ran great. I ran it at 16 psi to redline and there was no rise in AFR - logged it first thing in the morning. I have the single aux output of the Haltech set to kill the boost solenoid if AFR is greater than 12.2 and boost is greater than 4 psi, and it never went off the entire day. Not sure why heat while on the dyno affected fuel pressure so greatly (pressure dipped into high 20s at high rpms towards the end of the session).
Last edited by rcdash; 07-06-2010 at 12:47 PM.
#56
pharm, if you give up on that turbo get a 6262 instead. You can push higher boost than those greddy turbos since it's a billet wheel.
but back on track, even with your 35r you still need the fuel. Plus if next year you do decide to upgrade the turbo you'll be up a creek since you won't have the proper fueling.
raj only did 520ish or so on a single pump. his is a/t so if you add a little bit for manual you might get up to 550 but that will be where you run out of fuel single pump. I'm not sure where people are getting this 600hp single pump numbers unless they are just letting their car get dangerously lean or making up inflated numbers.
but back on track, even with your 35r you still need the fuel. Plus if next year you do decide to upgrade the turbo you'll be up a creek since you won't have the proper fueling.
raj only did 520ish or so on a single pump. his is a/t so if you add a little bit for manual you might get up to 550 but that will be where you run out of fuel single pump. I'm not sure where people are getting this 600hp single pump numbers unless they are just letting their car get dangerously lean or making up inflated numbers.
Ya, I'm not sure if the 6262 will fit without modifications to the dp.
I did pm Pete and asked if he was willing to upgrade my turbo to a 37r but I don't think they will bc I alrdy fired up the car with the turbo in it to make sure everything was working.
I also talked with Charles and he actually said if I was going to stay at <600whp on dynojet that a single pump is all I needed. I told him about my inline walbro and he said if the wiring is correct and the pump stays wet then the chance of malfunction is the same as a intank walbro going bad.
Charles is a straight up guy, he didn't even try to sell me the twin pump but insisted that if my goal was 600 then a single will do it's job.
At this pt, i dont see why I really need to go twin if my turbo cant even make +600whp. If intense is willing to do the upgrade then Ill need the twin.
#58
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Ya, I'm not sure if the 6262 will fit without modifications to the dp.
I also talked with Charles and he actually said if I was going to stay at <600whp on dynojet that a single pump is all I needed. I told him about my inline walbro and he said if the wiring is correct and the pump stays wet then the chance of malfunction is the same as a intank walbro going bad.
Charles is a straight up guy, he didn't even try to sell me the twin pump but insisted that if my goal was 600 then a single will do it's job.
At this pt, i dont see why I really need to go twin if my turbo cant even make +600whp. If intense is willing to do the upgrade then Ill need the twin.
I also talked with Charles and he actually said if I was going to stay at <600whp on dynojet that a single pump is all I needed. I told him about my inline walbro and he said if the wiring is correct and the pump stays wet then the chance of malfunction is the same as a intank walbro going bad.
Charles is a straight up guy, he didn't even try to sell me the twin pump but insisted that if my goal was 600 then a single will do it's job.
At this pt, i dont see why I really need to go twin if my turbo cant even make +600whp. If intense is willing to do the upgrade then Ill need the twin.
charles is a straight shooter. I discussed the single pump setup with him for weeks before deciding. The only thing i think flawed in your path with staying on a single is the fact that charles will say a single on a system with proper FLOW should be ok. Did you tell him you're still running the dinky hardpipe? if so he'll tell you that it should be upgraded to get the most out of a single pump. That he did make very clear to me if i decided to stay with a single.
also, i trust charles's judgement but one thing he kept refering back to when asking me the goals i had in mind is what my tuner normally gets out of a single walbro. He said if the tuner doesn't get 600hp out of a single walbro (which hal said he hasn't seen over 530 on his dyno) then he said go with that info before his.
Like you stated though, this is all irrelevant if you don't upgrade your turbo and your turbo is the limiting factor anyways. If your tuner is close and you do'nt mind making "experimental" runs then get it all setup on a single pump and throw it on a dyno. If the turbo runs up enough hp to eat up the single pump then fix that issue and go back to the dyno. At 6 hours away and no free time from med school that option isn't allowed for me.
rich: e85 is only 2$ a gallon
#59
YA the turbo now will be the limiting factor. If I cant upgrade to a 37r then Ill at least change out the hardline to use the full potential of the single and small inline pump. Also, will fuel spill out of the hardline or will I need to plug the hole while I change it out?
Last edited by Mr_pharmD; 07-06-2010 at 09:14 PM.
#60
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My twin pumps you can hear if the radio is off but if the radio is on even very low i don't notice the twin pumps at all. So its nothing to be worried about. In G35s they are under the back seat so that may give more sound deadening than in a Z
I did the do it your self lines this was a test fit I moved the filter up closer to the front and tucked up in the frame rails more and used a bracket to secure it, I used twin -8 lines into a -12 filter to a single -10 that "Y"s before the rails and the return is a CJM -6 you can see it under the -8 feeds. i can't seem to find a picture of the final set up but you get the idea. It was some trial and error to get a decent set up so buying the kit would eliminate some hassle.
I did the do it your self lines this was a test fit I moved the filter up closer to the front and tucked up in the frame rails more and used a bracket to secure it, I used twin -8 lines into a -12 filter to a single -10 that "Y"s before the rails and the return is a CJM -6 you can see it under the -8 feeds. i can't seem to find a picture of the final set up but you get the idea. It was some trial and error to get a decent set up so buying the kit would eliminate some hassle.
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 07-06-2010 at 09:26 PM.