Thanks for all the responses. As always useful information to ponder!!

 

This post says it all.....^^^^^^

It's true that when you change the oil often....you reduce the chance of having oil with no viscosity .....but I think some are still missing the point of using an oil cooler.....yes it's safe to run the temp to 250...... But how many 250 degrees levels can you get before taxing the internals????

Don't you all think that running the car hard and keeping it below 220 degrees would give your motor greater life?????

The point is... The less you stress the motor .....well you get my point.

 

Oil pressure dropping to 0psi while driving has nothing to do with excessive oil temps. I dont even know how Cass's builder/tuner could even make that correlation.....

The OP doesnt get above 220. Perfectly safe. No one is arguing not to use a cooler, esp on a FI car. We are just saying that people's conception of proper oil temps are incorrect.

 

I agree!
sadly many on the board overlooked the OBVIOUS and already ate it up...just like other "conclusions" like you must now do 2 oil coolers on build engines or you are probably unsafe(no pun to mike on this one)...reminds me of...its the HKS gasket Fault, Darton sleeves are the problem for all my engine fails..... IT was all the injectors fault...it was the utecs fault....you must only run 1/2" studs if you want to be safe... you must flush coolant every 10 days and shoudl be regular practice

 

If by daisy chain you mean "in series" or the oil goes in one oil cooler, out then in the next one. your adding some restriction and increasing back pressure. You would be better IMO if you ran them parallel, 1/2 the oil in one cooler , 1/2 in another. Same cooling effect without added restriction.

 

The reason your oil is at that temperature is because there is coolant flowing through the OEM Oil Cooler which is attached to the oil filter housing. Unless you removed that or lowered your thermostat with a Nismo there is no way for it to get lower then 220. Basically the coolant is heating up the oil that was cooled to 180 which is what your sandwich adapter is set at. So you should actually just do the correct thing and put a bypass around then OEM sandwich cooler. It would just be a simple brass 45 to junction the upper and lower hoses around the Sandwich Adapter. You can then REMOVE the OEM cooler plate and this will give you a little extra room for piping and oil lines.

You can install a second cooler but this will do nothing for you until you fix the pre-existing issue. The down side to this is now it will take significantly longer for you oil to heat up. The factory installs this type of system for two reasons. One to cool the oil but more importantly they do it to warm the oil up quickly. This is needed for emissions reasons. YOU MUST ALLOW YOUR OIL TEMP TO GET TO PROPER OPERATING LEVELS ONCE YOU HAVE INSTALLED THIS MOD! 120+ is my personal preference but this will depend on your oil weight.

Cass I've been slammed getting cars finished. I haven't kept up with your car. You may want to PM as I have information as to why your motor keeps having problems. This is absolute proof from others experience.

 

+1111 you'll have less restriction than a single cooler in parallel while you'll have added restriction in series + less cooling affect since one cooler would be getting cooler oil than the other.

 

If the original poster is talking about the 993 and prior Porsche then the dual oil cooler is because the engine is oil cooled (AKA Air Cooled). There is no direct coolant running through the engine block. The interior heating system which does use coolant is heating off the exhaust manifolds.

 

I agree that the 220 is safe......and yes....I think that there is a misconception about oil temps.

Also what Jorge said..... Not everyone needs 2 oil coolers.....i can't see doing it for a car that is street only either....Also.... A wrongly placed oil cooler is like not having one either...

As far as bring the oil up to temp when using 2 coolers....... Sharif install a regulator ( I forgot the name) that stops the oil from flowing through the oil cooler until it's up to temp..... So there is no need to sit and wait......I will post pic below so others or Sharif can explain it better.....

The reg I am talking about is the item between the IC piping.

 

^ are your coolers running in series?

 

^^ looks like it to me

 

I think there is some confusion. In a motor where there is no coolant flowing through the OEM OIL/Coolant Sandwich Adapter then it takes a much longer time for oil to warm up. The thermostat you have there was originally intended to stop the oil from getting too cool. When you are high air flow situations then the oil can be cooled too quickly and drop to ambient temps, just as with a Intercooler.

With the OEM OIL/Coolant Sandwich Adapter the engine coolant will warm up very quickly and then transfer that heat into the oil system to heat that quickly. This is also why the throttle and intake manifold have coolant fittings. For emissions reasons.

XKR in your second pic the OEM coolant lines are not connected to the OEM sandwich adapter but I do not see an oil adapter to feed to the oil coolers. Where are you getting your ins and outs to feed the oil coolers?

 

I think a parallel in/out would be best, provided you use Y fittings (not T's), and the lines are the same length for both to prevent the oil from simply traveling the path of least resistance (exchanger closest to sandwich adapter).

Series would be easier to plumb, but the 2nd cooler is going to have a much less effect on the oil temps than the 1st one.

 

I will wait for Sharif to answer.... I don't want to respond if I am not 100% sure. The second pic was taken when they were hooking up the IC piping.....or measure everything up....so what you see is not the final plumbing.

 

Dave my coolant temp usually runs 185-195 and maxes out around 200. My oil temps run 220-240 and keeps on climbing if I don't let off on a hot day. So I don't really see a reason why the OEM oil cooler would be hurting anything...

 

My thought was that as long as the oil gets cool, it wouldn't matter if it is in series or not . Also, I saw a modified mag article where they put a system together using -10 AM lines. Still too restrictive?

Jorge - I was going to run two just to keep a symetrical look, one cooler off to the side bothers me and centering it in front of the IC would make the car look like it has buck teeth IMO.

Dave - Interesting info on the sandwhich plate bypass. Have you done this on any of the Mid-A cars?

 

My coolant never gets above 200F even in 105 degree weather (PWR radiator)... does the OEM cooler/warmer really hurt me considering my oil temps are nearly always considerably higher than the coolant temps while running it hard?

 

^ off topic, but do your fans ever click on when you aren't running your A/C / heater?

 

i know what you mean, symetrical is a way to show you doing things clean, but its not like you take bumper off at a show right ....u can do power steering cooler too.....u already have upgraded radiator already right?

i mean... i guess i did the 5" core too jsut cause, cuase 4" would have been enough too... oh well.

 

I was thinking one in each of the side openings



and yes, I already have the upgraded radiator.