Bent rod
09-15-2010, 05:34 AM
#61
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I was thinking I would go with z1 built long block it’s more in my budget. What you guys think?
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2204
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2193
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2204
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=2193
09-15-2010, 06:03 AM
#64
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56hours to assemble a shortblock?????
Even if thats assembling the longblock and R&R the motors thats high...
I think you could assemble the whole car from nothing but pieces in that amount of time.
I'd go with a proven shortblock bought from a proven shop (think sponsors on here).....And I also wouldn't let this shop touch your car. Most of the shops now offer some sort of transport service, I'd look into that.
Tom
Even if thats assembling the longblock and R&R the motors thats high...
I think you could assemble the whole car from nothing but pieces in that amount of time.
I'd go with a proven shortblock bought from a proven shop (think sponsors on here).....And I also wouldn't let this shop touch your car. Most of the shops now offer some sort of transport service, I'd look into that.
Tom
09-15-2010, 06:07 AM
#66
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09-15-2010, 06:08 AM
#67
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56hours to assemble a shortblock?????
Even if thats assembling the longblock and R&R the motors thats high...
I think you could assemble the whole car from nothing but pieces in that amount of time.
I'd go with a proven shortblock bought from a proven shop (think sponsors on here).....And I also wouldn't let this shop touch your car. Most of the shops now offer some sort of transport service, I'd look into that.
Tom
Even if thats assembling the longblock and R&R the motors thats high...
I think you could assemble the whole car from nothing but pieces in that amount of time.
I'd go with a proven shortblock bought from a proven shop (think sponsors on here).....And I also wouldn't let this shop touch your car. Most of the shops now offer some sort of transport service, I'd look into that.
Tom
09-15-2010, 06:44 AM
#69
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56hours to assemble a shortblock?????
Even if thats assembling the longblock and R&R the motors thats high...
I think you could assemble the whole car from nothing but pieces in that amount of time.
I'd go with a proven shortblock bought from a proven shop (think sponsors on here).....And I also wouldn't let this shop touch your car. Most of the shops now offer some sort of transport service, I'd look into that.
Tom
Even if thats assembling the longblock and R&R the motors thats high...
I think you could assemble the whole car from nothing but pieces in that amount of time.
I'd go with a proven shortblock bought from a proven shop (think sponsors on here).....And I also wouldn't let this shop touch your car. Most of the shops now offer some sort of transport service, I'd look into that.
Tom
Last edited by Chris@FsP; 09-15-2010 at 06:46 AM.
09-15-2010, 06:56 AM
#70
at most the shop will hook you up with a core. you still have to buy all new parts, so they wont give those away for free.
IPP has good prices on longblocks but AFAIK they dont come with any timing parts or upper/lower oil pan. Its just the shortblock with heads attached. That could be quite an additional cost to add that stuff if you cant source/do it yourself.
and Tom, 56 hours labor isnt that crazy when you include pulling the stock motor, machine time, assembly, and reinstall. I think I have ~20 hours labor on my bill, 10 for machine, 10 for assemby/disassemble. And that with me pulling/installing the motor.
Pretty sure that any shop build on here has taken more than a week for the owner to get the car back.
IPP has good prices on longblocks but AFAIK they dont come with any timing parts or upper/lower oil pan. Its just the shortblock with heads attached. That could be quite an additional cost to add that stuff if you cant source/do it yourself.
and Tom, 56 hours labor isnt that crazy when you include pulling the stock motor, machine time, assembly, and reinstall. I think I have ~20 hours labor on my bill, 10 for machine, 10 for assemby/disassemble. And that with me pulling/installing the motor.
Pretty sure that any shop build on here has taken more than a week for the owner to get the car back.
09-15-2010, 07:06 AM
#71
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I know where you are coming from but its still high...
I believe the book R+R is 16hrs.....say another 5-10 for the turbo kit.
We're still at 40-45hrs.
sounds like you will need to sit at this shop with a stop watch lol...
Tom
I believe the book R+R is 16hrs.....say another 5-10 for the turbo kit.
We're still at 40-45hrs.
sounds like you will need to sit at this shop with a stop watch lol...
Tom
at most the shop will hook you up with a core. you still have to buy all new parts, so they wont give those away for free.
IPP has good prices on longblocks but AFAIK they dont come with any timing parts or upper/lower oil pan. Its just the shortblock with heads attached. That could be quite an additional cost to add that stuff if you cant source/do it yourself.
and Tom, 56 hours labor isnt that crazy when you include pulling the stock motor, machine time, assembly, and reinstall. I think I have ~20 hours labor on my bill, 10 for machine, 10 for assemby/disassemble. And that with me pulling/installing the motor.
Pretty sure that any shop build on here has taken more than a week for the owner to get the car back.
IPP has good prices on longblocks but AFAIK they dont come with any timing parts or upper/lower oil pan. Its just the shortblock with heads attached. That could be quite an additional cost to add that stuff if you cant source/do it yourself.
and Tom, 56 hours labor isnt that crazy when you include pulling the stock motor, machine time, assembly, and reinstall. I think I have ~20 hours labor on my bill, 10 for machine, 10 for assemby/disassemble. And that with me pulling/installing the motor.
Pretty sure that any shop build on here has taken more than a week for the owner to get the car back.
09-19-2010, 01:48 PM
#72
Here are the options the shop is offering me after gaveing them $9555 to blow my motor. 
Is it me or are these prices too high
Option 1
Replace with stock motor………………………………………………EST. $2,500-$3,500
Gasket set……………………………………………………………………$250
Labor……………………………………..$4,760 (56 hours x $85/hour) (Your price: $3,000)
TOTAL: EST. $7,260 YOUR EST. TOTAL: $5,500-$6,500 **YOU SAVE UP TO: $1,800**
Option 2
Short block (no head work)…………………….………$5,995 (Your price 5% discount : $5,500)
Gasket set………………………………………………………………………..$250
Valve Springs……………………………………………………………..….$220
Labor……………………………………………$4,760 (56 hours x $85/hour) (Your Price: $3,000)
TOTAL: EST. $10,975 YOUR EST. TOTAL: $8,720 **YOU SAVE $2,255**
Option 3
Stage I motor………………………………………$7,995 (Your price 5% discount: $7,595)
Labor……………………………………….$4,760 (56 hours x $85/hour) (Your Price: $3,000)
550cc Injectors………………………………………………….~$600
Upgrade SS box (in order to see more boost)………..$268 (our cost)
Fuel Rail mod………………………………………………………$200
700 series turbos………………………………………..…$500 +s/h
Koyo Radiator…………………………………………………$360
Flexalite fan…………………………………………………….$350
Thermostat……………………………………………………..$195
Fuel Pump………………………………………..………………..$89
Gasket set…………………………………………………….$250
Relays…………………………………………………………..…..TBD
Oils……………………………………………………………………..TBD
Factory replacement parts……………………………………..TBD
Chains/guides………………………………………..………………..TBD
TOTAL: EST. $15,228 YOUR EST. TOTAL: $13,068 **YOU SAVE $2,160**
Option 4
Take it to Performance Motorsports........................$100 tow (Your price:
free)
Thanks,
Vinny
Is it me or are these prices too highOption 1
Replace with stock motor………………………………………………EST. $2,500-$3,500
Gasket set……………………………………………………………………$250
Labor……………………………………..$4,760 (56 hours x $85/hour) (Your price: $3,000)
TOTAL: EST. $7,260 YOUR EST. TOTAL: $5,500-$6,500 **YOU SAVE UP TO: $1,800**
Option 2
Short block (no head work)…………………….………$5,995 (Your price 5% discount : $5,500)
Gasket set………………………………………………………………………..$250
Valve Springs……………………………………………………………..….$220
Labor……………………………………………$4,760 (56 hours x $85/hour) (Your Price: $3,000)
TOTAL: EST. $10,975 YOUR EST. TOTAL: $8,720 **YOU SAVE $2,255**
Option 3
Stage I motor………………………………………$7,995 (Your price 5% discount: $7,595)
Labor……………………………………….$4,760 (56 hours x $85/hour) (Your Price: $3,000)
550cc Injectors………………………………………………….~$600
Upgrade SS box (in order to see more boost)………..$268 (our cost)
Fuel Rail mod………………………………………………………$200
700 series turbos………………………………………..…$500 +s/h
Koyo Radiator…………………………………………………$360
Flexalite fan…………………………………………………….$350
Thermostat……………………………………………………..$195
Fuel Pump………………………………………..………………..$89
Gasket set…………………………………………………….$250
Relays…………………………………………………………..…..TBD
Oils……………………………………………………………………..TBD
Factory replacement parts……………………………………..TBD
Chains/guides………………………………………..………………..TBD
TOTAL: EST. $15,228 YOUR EST. TOTAL: $13,068 **YOU SAVE $2,160**
Option 4
Take it to Performance Motorsports........................$100 tow (Your price:
free)
Thanks,
Vinny
, just kidding lol 
Last edited by TRYNALIVEPRO; 09-19-2010 at 01:50 PM.
09-19-2010, 03:34 PM
#73
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get sum Pauter rods, Wiseco pistons and send your block to Jim Justice.. u should be good to go.
http://www.justiceracingengines.com/...ustomers.shtml
http://www.justiceracingengines.com/...ustomers.shtml
Last edited by nyqueenz; 09-19-2010 at 03:42 PM.
09-20-2010, 06:33 AM
#75
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Hi Coach.....good to see you
OP.....WOW
....
I agree with some of the post on here....put some of the post together and that's exactly what I would do....
Considering I am not shop owner friendly when it comes to my car ( I am friendly when my car leaves the shop)....if this were my car....the shop would have to cover part of this F-up...IF .....and I say IF there were no contract signed stating no fault.... Or aT owners risk because of whatever.....fill in the space.
Here is an example.....I took my car to a JTrans Dyno Day....he asked me to put my car on the dyno for the event WITH the understanding that if something happens it's not his fault. Verbal agreement !!!
NOW....if I took my stock car to him and asked him to strap on a TT kit and he calls to tell me I bent a rod....he has a problem...not me!!! What I would do is pay for parts..... pay 50% of labor...
Now, if I wanted to stay true to who I am...( the biggest azz-hole on here) and this was a shop I visited for the first time.....I would only pay for what was agreed on when my car was delivered.....the cost of installing a JWT 530bb kit
.......I delivered a car in working condition....that's what I expect to be returned!!!!! Like I said....it's just me
Good luck to you OP.
Once again.....Hi CoachK
OP.....WOW
....I agree with some of the post on here....put some of the post together and that's exactly what I would do....
Considering I am not shop owner friendly when it comes to my car ( I am friendly when my car leaves the shop)....if this were my car....the shop would have to cover part of this F-up...IF .....and I say IF there were no contract signed stating no fault.... Or aT owners risk because of whatever.....fill in the space.
Here is an example.....I took my car to a JTrans Dyno Day....he asked me to put my car on the dyno for the event WITH the understanding that if something happens it's not his fault. Verbal agreement !!!
NOW....if I took my stock car to him and asked him to strap on a TT kit and he calls to tell me I bent a rod....he has a problem...not me!!! What I would do is pay for parts..... pay 50% of labor...
Now, if I wanted to stay true to who I am...( the biggest azz-hole on here) and this was a shop I visited for the first time.....I would only pay for what was agreed on when my car was delivered.....the cost of installing a JWT 530bb kit
.......I delivered a car in working condition....that's what I expect to be returned!!!!! Like I said....it's just meGood luck to you OP.
Once again.....Hi CoachK
09-21-2010, 10:38 AM
#78
Why do people think 100K miles is a lot of miles? 100K miles is peanuts on an engine. It blew up on the VERY FIRST RUN. The run that's supposed to run ultra detuned and weak to start tuning. I'm sorry but I don't buy it. I've seen pro tuners blow engines up all the time...never on the very first run though. I'd think twice.
My car is only 15K shy of 100K and I've beat the living crap out of it. I've even taken it to the point of HEARING it knock on various occasions and pulling back on the timing and have yet to blow.
Also, saying the 530 kit is SAFER than the 700 kit is just ridiculous. Having twin GT35R's is the safest of all and the most powerful at the same time...maybe someone could tell me why?
My car is only 15K shy of 100K and I've beat the living crap out of it. I've even taken it to the point of HEARING it knock on various occasions and pulling back on the timing and have yet to blow.
Also, saying the 530 kit is SAFER than the 700 kit is just ridiculous. Having twin GT35R's is the safest of all and the most powerful at the same time...maybe someone could tell me why?
It sounds like your engine could have been on the ropes for some reason.
But then again, they did **** your **** up. Look at what you signed, and what the agreement was, and push to get the best deal possible. I'd probably ask for parts to rebuild at wholesale and free labor. You won't actually get that, but it's an aggressive way to start, and show you ain't going to get trampled on and ****ed in the ***.
Last edited by Resmarted; 09-21-2010 at 10:41 AM.
09-21-2010, 05:53 PM
#79
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I didn't understand half of what you were trying to say. Vinny ten probably just wanted to crap out some power for the dude in a few pulls, make their money and move on. I'm not attacking vinny ten racing; any shop with good background and lots of customers is going to do this stuff especially on the "lower power" setups. In fact, vinny ten is probably the most qualified shops for boosting Z's out there.
It sounds like your engine could have been on the ropes for some reason.
But then again, they did **** your **** up. Look at what you signed, and what the agreement was, and push to get the best deal possible. I'd probably ask for parts to rebuild at wholesale and free labor. You won't actually get that, but it's an aggressive way to start, and show you ain't going to get trampled on and ****ed in the ***.
It sounds like your engine could have been on the ropes for some reason.
But then again, they did **** your **** up. Look at what you signed, and what the agreement was, and push to get the best deal possible. I'd probably ask for parts to rebuild at wholesale and free labor. You won't actually get that, but it's an aggressive way to start, and show you ain't going to get trampled on and ****ed in the ***.
11-04-2011, 03:53 PM
#80
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MY VTR Build has been completed
So it took longer than i thought it would but in the end i'm happy with the out come. Perfection takes time...... I will be posting PIX & dyno of my STG 1 long block.
I would like to thank Vinny & his guys for a job well done.
I would like to thank Vinny & his guys for a job well done.