Engine too old for FI?
09-26-2010, 08:58 PM
#1
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Engine too old for FI?
I have an 03 350Z, w/ ~55k miles on it (synthetic oil always) and am thinking of getting either some more life out of the car by putting HKS supercharger, or selling the car eventually and getting another newer car w/ FI...
Reason I'm going w/ supercharge is I do want to stay carb legal in California, and be able to drive without the fear of being pulled over and having either remove the turbo, or failing smog checks etc.
If 55k is too much to put a supercharger on (I know there's no way to really know if the engine can take it, but wanted to get a feel for it..) or there's no way to be carb legal in california w/ any good FI solutions, I may just save myself some headache and buy a car that already comes w/ FI stock (and pay 50-70k extra as opposed to 10-20k for add on FI on my Z)
I guess It's like deciding if I want to overclock an aging PC, or just getting a newer faster one without the hassle, but more money.. Just have to see if the journey is worth it
Reason I'm going w/ supercharge is I do want to stay carb legal in California, and be able to drive without the fear of being pulled over and having either remove the turbo, or failing smog checks etc.
If 55k is too much to put a supercharger on (I know there's no way to really know if the engine can take it, but wanted to get a feel for it..) or there's no way to be carb legal in california w/ any good FI solutions, I may just save myself some headache and buy a car that already comes w/ FI stock (and pay 50-70k extra as opposed to 10-20k for add on FI on my Z)
I guess It's like deciding if I want to overclock an aging PC, or just getting a newer faster one without the hassle, but more money.. Just have to see if the journey is worth it
09-26-2010, 09:05 PM
#2
ANSWER: Depends on the life and vitality of your stock engine. I think this subject has been beaten to death. Just use the "search" function. https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...good-idea.html
Last edited by derekinthez; 09-26-2010 at 09:07 PM.
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09-27-2010, 12:09 PM
#14
As someone has already suggested, get a compression/leak down test to see how well your car holds pressure as that is the overall determining factor on whether or not you should boost (from a mechanical value standpoint).
I put a single turbo on my Z around 40,000 miles and I still haveit on and I have passed 90,000. Still runs very strong.
I put a single turbo on my Z around 40,000 miles and I still haveit on and I have passed 90,000. Still runs very strong.
09-27-2010, 12:51 PM
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As someone has already suggested, get a compression/leak down test to see how well your car holds pressure as that is the overall determining factor on whether or not you should boost (from a mechanical value standpoint).
I put a single turbo on my Z around 40,000 miles and I still haveit on and I have passed 90,000. Still runs very strong.
I put a single turbo on my Z around 40,000 miles and I still haveit on and I have passed 90,000. Still runs very strong.
09-27-2010, 04:39 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys, very helpful. I want to get as much boost as my stock begin would handle 
I guess once I dcide, I'll take it to a shop and have them eval. Thanks again
I guess once I dcide, I'll take it to a shop and have them eval. Thanks again
09-27-2010, 04:55 PM
#17
I have a TN system which is known to boost creep or spike. I believe when the kit came out, it was only supposed to do about 8 pounds but on nice cold weather or temps, according to my Zeitronix, I hit 10-10.5 psi.
AFR was important to me as I told Sam at GT Motorsport (who tuned my car) that I didn't want to be on the razor's edge of performance and that protecting the engine was my highest priority. When I get under heavy load and I'm moving fast, I go as low as high 9's but mostly 10's. Very conservative.
AFR was important to me as I told Sam at GT Motorsport (who tuned my car) that I didn't want to be on the razor's edge of performance and that protecting the engine was my highest priority. When I get under heavy load and I'm moving fast, I go as low as high 9's but mostly 10's. Very conservative.
09-27-2010, 07:04 PM
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I have a TN system which is known to boost creep or spike. I believe when the kit came out, it was only supposed to do about 8 pounds but on nice cold weather or temps, according to my Zeitronix, I hit 10-10.5 psi.
AFR was important to me as I told Sam at GT Motorsport (who tuned my car) that I didn't want to be on the razor's edge of performance and that protecting the engine was my highest priority. When I get under heavy load and I'm moving fast, I go as low as high 9's but mostly 10's. Very conservative.
AFR was important to me as I told Sam at GT Motorsport (who tuned my car) that I didn't want to be on the razor's edge of performance and that protecting the engine was my highest priority. When I get under heavy load and I'm moving fast, I go as low as high 9's but mostly 10's. Very conservative.
Mine creeps the EXACT same way. At night when its just 10 degrees cooler it will hit 10.5lbs. Scares the crap out of me. Im thinking about changing the wastegate to hopefully eliminate the boost creep issue.
I have several maps I can switch from but I usually keep it at 11.0-11.3Afr.
09-28-2010, 05:21 AM
#20
I have a TN system which is known to boost creep or spike. I believe when the kit came out, it was only supposed to do about 8 pounds but on nice cold weather or temps, according to my Zeitronix, I hit 10-10.5 psi.
AFR was important to me as I told Sam at GT Motorsport (who tuned my car) that I didn't want to be on the razor's edge of performance and that protecting the engine was my highest priority. When I get under heavy load and I'm moving fast, I go as low as high 9's but mostly 10's. Very conservative.
AFR was important to me as I told Sam at GT Motorsport (who tuned my car) that I didn't want to be on the razor's edge of performance and that protecting the engine was my highest priority. When I get under heavy load and I'm moving fast, I go as low as high 9's but mostly 10's. Very conservative.