sorry I cant offer help but im interested to see what the final outcome of this is.

 

If you have an FSM and a multimeter, you can easily diagnose this yourself. No need to keep throwing new parts/sensors at the problem.

 

dont know if this was covered or not.

Check the pins on your ECU harness.

Specifically 111.

I had an issue with my TB and discovered 2 pins loose...the one that pulls ground for the TB relay pin 3 and pin 117. They had both backed out and no longer stay in place very well. It caused me a whole day.

 

thanks for all the replies. still troubleshooting. i think i might have to check pin by pin with a multimeter. this is ridiculous...

 

on my scan tool its saying that fuel system #2 is in open loop due to a detected fault. any ideas on what could cause this? ive checked the coils, plugs, power to both were good. The O2 sensors are good. changed cam sensor and crank. timing is right at 15 degrees at idle. engine water temp is at 190 and its about 80 degrees here in hawaii. i checked the injectors and even switched them around. bank 2 is running rich as hell. idk what else to do...

 

how did you check these pins? visually? cause they look fine to me.

 

Checked the whole wire harness. No breaks. All grounds were good. Looked to see if the cam signal plate was damaged somehow. But everything was still good. Gonna go to the stealership tomorrow and buy a new O2 sensor. Don't know what else to do. If that's not the fix then the intake valve timing control solenoid will be next. I already checked continuity for both parts but those are the two things I haven't changed out on bank 2 so far. Could be an issue when the component is heating up or during operation. Idk but I'm just shooting from the hip as of now.

 

no luck with any shops or dealerships having an o2 sensor on the island. so i just ordered one online. hopefully this is the fix... have a 5/16 motordyne plenum spacer also coming in soon. idk why i keep buying stuff for a car thats not running right...

 

try to make friends with someone with a z/g over there. swap parts then take said z/g owner for some food each time you swap the part until you find the problem. i would stop throwing money at it until you find which part is the problem.

 

How old are those "New" plugs, are they the week old ones or have they been replaced since you got the flashing CEL? Even a week old plug can be fouled. Verify that the coil packs are firing with a new cheap plug removed from the engine while cranking. (Keep in mind you have to ground it and be careful) If you haven't physically seen whether or not the packs are firing you cannot be 100% sure they aren't.

Does this greddy TT kit have some sort of piggy back controller? Don't those controllers adjust spark timing? If it does check that.

Spark plug analyses Just FYI

 

I went through the whole dtc p0300 troubleshooting procedure according to the 350z nissan manual. the plugs are brand new. they were changed due to this problem in the first place.

 

haha, good idea. but ive already changed alomost every part on bank 2 so far. and the last part is the intake valve timing solenoid which is about 75 bucks. what's 75 bucks to all the money ive spent so far.

 

if the 02 sensor and vtc solenoid dont fix it... Im going with the haltech standalone. F the ********, I'm going the easy but more expensive route out.

 

Just installed new lower intake manifold gaskets with new lower plenum and upper plenum gaskets. Changed out the O2 sensor and still the same thing.

BUT I did hook up a new fuel pressure gauge and I have 17 psi at idle. Is that correct??? I have a sard fpr. What could cause this?

 

That fuel pressure is too low... I believe its supposed to be like 30 to 33 at idle...

 

Mine's in the 40's at idle

 

Should I adjust it? And how do I do that? Or could it be something else causing my fuel pressure to drop

 

17psi at idle, surprised the car even starts..

atomization must be pretty bad. assuming the gauge is correct, you need to turn the set nut on the FPR in until you are seeing around 40psi at idle.

 

Believe around 52 psi idle is correct setting

 

Any suggestions on what it could be. Bad pump or reg?