I attached the pic of the kit on the car. i

Is the the wheel w/ the blue arow the one you're talking about? Seems that both the bolt for that wheel, as well as the one marked by red arrow have to be loosend.

Just looking at the belt that is attached to the wheel (not sure what right term is, cog wheel?), the belt is on the right side of the groove within the wheel and is almost if not already touching the wall. I'm not sure if at some point I start getting belt wear if it keeps rubbing on the wheel.

I also attached a video (zipped) obtained when the engine is cold, and not making the sound.

The bolt marked by red could be pushed down further. I think it is higher compared to the wheel marked in blue, therefor creating a slope and hence having the belt rubbing on the right side of the wheel groove.

Not sure if what I'm saying is making any sense, hard to describe what I'm seeing..


edit, cant attach the vid, file too large...

 

reinstall the tensioner pulley bolt correctly and see if that helps.

 

hey thanks alot. i'll do that. or have the shop do that.

i remember a while back coming across that pic, but that was way before i was thinking of getting the vortech kit, so wasn't paying too much attention.

not sure why this was installed like this. hope it doesnt' get too f-d up driving around for a week or so till i get this fixed.

 

no problem. you can remove & reinstall that bolt in less than 2 minutes.

 

did you have to push down the bolt very hard? or did you just pushed down to make the belt feel tight. trying to figure out how much to push down (i'll do it when the pully is hot)

did you adjust yours when the system was hot or cold? thanks again man, nice find

 

you don't have to push down very hard. i don't recall hot versus cold, but can't honestly say i've ever noticed that pulley getting particularly warm.

 

I loaded a previous know good tune into his car and made a couple small adjustments here and there.Didnt spend alot of time on it as real tuning takes time and I was paid $100 for what I did.And trying to tune the Vortech with fmu and auxillary pump is a joke.The ss box wont allow you to make changes at lets 6250 rpm or 5750 so there is always a compromise.I told Maz that we should scrap the fmu,aux pump and go with a walbro 255 and 440 or 550cc injector and I would get the afrs very flat.Apparently we will do this at a later time.And at no place was the mixture 9.8 to 1.

 

Hey Tim, nice to see you here!

Thanks for reading my email and visiting the thread.

I came to your shop because of prior good word of mouth, and since your install deal included your already made good tune (didn’t even see it itemized on the receipt, but I see it now) as well as due to my time restraints at work.

I think I’ll play it safe for now and go back to the original baseline tune as discussed and take it from there.

I’ll either have you guys fix the pulley bolt, or do it myself. Look forward to seeing you guys at the shop.

 

Hay Tim,

The Dyno is small and hard to read, @3800 & 5000 Rpm looked like to me it went below 10 to1, I see now that was the stock map. I agree the ss box has poor resolution and takes time to tune. $100 was fair for what you did. Hard to do the Job you would like when Money may tight, but Tim, is that an acceptable Tune? Tim, would you let your Car leave Your Shop that way?

 

We did run the car in gear ratio to as getiting a good tach signal was being a bit of a *****.So the rpms could be off slightly.

Well go back to the baseline tune MAZ.The bolt for the tensioner is installed right according to the Vortech manual! If anyone wants to see I will scan three different pictures and the instructions for you guys to see.

 

i understand the ss box doesnt have the abilities a stand alone has or other piggy backs even and can only be tuned in 500 rpm incriments but the ss box gets the job done just fine for some..I know of high horsepower cars running ss box just fine with flat as hell a/f with aux. pump and fmu..it takes a little time but really not a huge amount of time..In my car with my tune from vinny ten racing i never at one point even thought about changing to a different ems just because the tune was so spot on and wouldnt be worth it at the time with the setup..For this car here the ss box is plenty for what he needs with a good tuner who knows how to tune it properly and has experience with the software....good luck maz

 

I am an experienced tuner Tyler.But how much did you pay Vinny to tune your car? He is a good friend of mine BTW.I have been tuning various EMS systems like Haltech,Motec,Electromotive,Stinger,Link,Fast,Autronics and various other EMS systems and piggybacks for well over ten years.How flat your AFR's are...I have yet to see one Vortech with FMU have a flat curve like you are saying.So please post your chart my friend.You can see the baseline from Vortech is not very flat.LOLSo you would think they would have spent countless hours dialing this in but the pressure for the FMU can vary which in turn effects the AFR.

 

The leanest the car got was 12.1 to 1 AFR so to me that is safe at roughly 7 psi of boost.Is it perfect no.Would I run my car like that yes.It didnt pink,no engine misfires and there was no signs of anything that would lead me to beleive that it would be dangerous.

And you guys all need to think about what kind of experience it takes to A.tune a EMS system,B. the cost of the dyno.C.the electricity to run the dyno.D.the cost of the wideband and its rather short lifespan,E. the liability of running the car and then think ...we got $100 to tune the car. For comparison sake....call the Dynoshop here in Santee.They charge $100 to do a horsepower check which consists of three pulls and no tuning!!!!!!!!!

And to really brings things into perspective......We were paid $1500 to install the Vortech.Replace boths valve covers9which I provided),replace spark plugs,install two wideband gauges onto the a-pillar(which required welding one bung before each cat)an oil temp gauge and boost gauge in a custom made panel in the NAV pod,sway bars,fix an exhaust rattle and dyno the car with an upgraded program(which I in turn made a few adjustments on)!!! So when you think about the amount of work that was done and what we were paid,MAZ got a super super killer *** deal!!!!!!!And his car has not blown up or had problems and runs flawlessly.

 

i paid 400 for a tune and yes i totally understand what ur saying how u get what u pay for basically, but a tune is nothing to skimp on or to just say yeah itll do...i wasnt saying ur not a good tuner i was stating to maz that the ss box is plenty for what he needs with a tuner that takes some time with it and is familiar with the ss box and aux. pump and fmu setup (of course if he is willing to pay for an actual good tune)...In the end i guess id say it wasnt smart for maz to skimp on a tune and id also say its not smart for a shop to put a car out without a perfected tune..I think its a high risk for a shop to say eh good enough, id say it should either be the best tune possible or not do a tune at all...

cant find my dyno sheet, ive looked before but i know vinny has it and has many more dyno sheets of cars tuned with ss box and flat *** a/f curves...he will recommend using ss box because he knows it gets the job done just fine for a piggyback

most cars on this page are tuned with ss box and show clips of dyno graphs after pulls http://www.vinnytenracing.com/video/

again not trying to take anything away from you tim just stating yes there are better options but that the setup is plenty for what maz needs at the time and can get the job done perfectly fine with some time tuning it

 

I retuned Mazs car this morning.AFRS are much better.He paid some more money for me to spend a decent amount of time dialing it in.Maz will post up the chart later.

 

 

Is this a Flat enough AFR Curve?

Vortech, Walbro, FMU, 440cc Injectors, Conservative Street Tune by TimRod Engineering

 

exactly^^^^very nice.. wish i could find my sheet to scan..i have to get another

 

Here’s the latest tune by Tim. I chose to keep the one in the blue, a bit more conservative.

The RPM’s are a bit off since gear-ratios were chosen for the Dyno.

Looks like I may need a tension pulley from GTM to fix the slip at high RPMS.

Another thing, after spending $$ on 2 widebands and having them install in the pre-cats, seems like my numbers from there are a bit inaccurate (too close to the headers/heat?). They show up about 0.5 to 1 higher than the exhaust AFR. Maybe that’s how they’re supposed to be, but it’s unsettling to see the 12’s on my gauges. Oh well, live and learn.

Thanks you all for the great input. I think I’ll be happy w/ the set up. For a while at least till the next upgrade

 

ur graphs not showing up but 12's pre cat are not good most likely..mid to high 11's is much safer..u should have a lower number pre cat than u would at the tailpipe..

also belt slip? if ur running the stock 3.33 pulley then u should have no problems at all with belt slip..tighten the serpentine belt up a little if it is slipping. shouldnt have any problems with belt slip until 2.87 pulley