Just finished putting my car back together. She starts and idles fine, no codes thrown with the stock ecu.

Here is a brief mod list:

2004 G35
CP 8.5 pistons
eagle rods
IP billet girdle
revup oil pump
hks head gasket
arp l19 head studs
arp main studs
brian crower valvetrain
brian crower stage 3 cams
ATI crank pulley
aam oil spacer
DXD 6 puck sprung clutch
DXD steel flywheel
koyo 54mm radiator
gtm fan shroud
Cosworth intake manifold
CJM twin pump
aeromotive AFPR
return fuel system
Greddy TT kit with forced performance upgraded 76 comp, 67 turb
38mm tial wastegates (14psi) with open dumps
3" custom downpipes portmatch for turbine outlet with 3" exhaust cutouts (SP eng boost acquated cutouts)
greddy evo tt exhaust
quaife lsd with 3.3 gears
IP diff brace
solid motor mounts and urethane trans mount

thats pretty much it. I am currently running on the stock ecu and injectors. I just wanted to know if there is anything I should be worried about with these engine vitals:

I've got a wideband sensor in each downpipe about 6 from the turbine outlet and am currently seeing the a/f ratio fluctuate between 13.6-15.6 on the drivers bank and 13.8-16.1 on the passenger side, if i hold the revs up to 3k it stays pretty solid at 14.1-14.2. I have been told it may be because of the cams and the stock ecu trying to adjust A/F for it.

some other stats, Fuel Pres. is steady at 52 psi, oil pressure is good, vacuum at idle is right around 18-20, egt sensor is in passenger side bank 2-3 inches from turbine outlet and reads 600 degrees at idle, goes up to 1000 while driving around the neighborhood, but drops back down to 600 after a couple of minutes, water and oil temps are similar to stock. The clutch is a PITA. It is either on or off.

I am also running torco breakin oil sae 40 weight for now, I plan to go to plain ole castrol gtx 10 w40 after the 500 miles. I would really like to break the motor in with the stock ecu and leave the charge pipe dissconnected with a filter on the MAF to prevent going into boost, but am willing to tow it somewhere to have a shop go over everything.

Still contemplating on the tuning, I've got 3 options:

1. I have a used utec with 750 cc injectors, that already has been tuned for the greddy tt kit by Chris Macellaro in dallas, run that for the base tune and take it back to him for a tune for my car.

2. sell the utec and head to austin for an uprev tune.

3. sell the utec and purchase a haltech and have Jtran tune it in houston.

Money isn't a problem, but I don't want to spend it if I don't have to, only looking for 500-550 for now and if the utec or uprev will be fine for that level, then I don't want to spend the money for the haltech, until I decide to turn up the boost. Has anybody had a problem breaking in their built motor with the stock ECU and these cams?

Here are a couple of crappy pics. I'll have better ones, once everything gets sorted out and tuned.

 

I would think with the BC3 and low compression you would have some issues with idle for sure. nice setup btw! DIY build thread pics?

Nice use of the t-bolt clamps. You should pick up the treadstone maf pipe to eliminate the oem plastic tube. I posted a link in a thread I started on here.

I would suggest using the utec to make sure your fueling is good. I just dropped in my 800cc injectors and started running off my haltech tuning the fueling/VE. Run your AC so that the idle is bumped up a bit too and maybe get a reflash to up the target idle.

 

Personally, I would go with the Haltech over the U-tech to get better resolution on the fuel and ignition maps. Also, the Haltech has a lot of nice features.

 

Ask Jtran whether they prefer the re-flash or the U-tech if you want to save $$$.

 

I say go with Haltech and their dual wideband kit.

But nice set-up.

 

thanks, I am definately going to pick up the treastone maf piece.

I had to keep the A/C on when I was stock to keep the car from sputtering out.

I sent you a PM.

 

if money isn't an issue Haltech for sure, uprev would be my second choice.
gl !

 

With the build list, I would hope money isn't much of an issue and should be able to do Haltech.

 

There should be no issues running on the stock ECU with stock injectors as long as you stay out of boost. No need to disconnect charge pipes and what not, it's not hard to stay out of boost...just don't drive like an idiot. A couple psi here and there won't hurt anything.

As for my boost tune opinion... I will say that Utec has alot more features (overboost cut, knock retard all the way to redline, temperature compensation, and more), better resolution for boost tuning (MAP) over Uprev which is purely MAF based. However, Uprev will retain a more stock like feel when going in and out of boost since it's all MAF and not switching back and forth like Utec.

I will say one more thing about Uprev that there is a tendancy for some timing instability under medium boost (feels and looks like knock retard but with zero actual knock). I've verified this is the case with others on the forum, all tuned by different tuners but using a similar method. I know only one tuner that tunes Uprev via an alternate method (Vince @RTT) and I'm afraid this might be the key but I can't be certain. I'll be retuning mine in the next few weeks using this method and hopefully that irons out some or all of what I'm experiencing -- I'll be sure to make a post in the tuning section with my results. If it doesn't help, I might have to ditch uprev altogether -- it's not a constant issue (one out of every few hard upshifts), but as long as it's there it pisses me off. I never once had this issue with my Utec, which takes full control of timing and fuel away from the stock ECU during boost.

That said, I'd say if you plan on ragging the **** out of it on the track or otherwise serious competition, go Utec due to the MAP reference and safety fearures. If you plan on driving it mostly on the street and minimal track abuse, Uprev is probably the better choice. Make sure you have a very capable uprev/utec tuner that has put out alot of boosted tunes with satisfied customers -- and be sure to ask the customers how they like it. And of course, if money permits ditch them both for a standalone. Given your build sheet, I'm surprised you're even considering anything else.

 

As many have already said above, Haltech. You have too nice of a setup to run with hiccups (Utec) or without protection (no overboost protection with Uprev). Check out the link in my signature for a killer sale on a complete Haltech package! I can setup a base map to get you started, and know that I am available for travel tuning. What part of Texas are you in?

 

^hal you never got back to me....

 

Thanks fo the response, it is much appreciated. I actually had the utec to begin with and didn't expect the build to go this far, butone thing led to the next. Everyone I've talked to so far recommends haltech, looks like I'm going to post a for sale thread soon for the utec.

 

I'm in Waco, tx. I actually just sent Ryan an email this morning for a quote on the haltech.

 

Just keep in mind what I said about tuner experience...you're better off with the lesser EMS in the hands of a tuner with great experience and results on the unit, than something very advanced such as Haltech in the hands of someone with less experience on that EMS. I've heard good and bad about most EMS; the bad is 9 times out of 10 the result of inexperience with the platform.

 

True, I'm definately doing my research on who I want to tune my car and which system I ultimately go with. I don't want to deal with anymore headaches.

 

why Haltech? the proefi128 is vastly superior in every manner. i'd sell you my Haltech in a second to get a Pro128.

 

When is it ever going to end! Lol, I was actually reading about proefi128 last night....so many options, If I chose the proefi, the car would never get done!

 

anyone with 2 or more fuel pumps should be looking at ProEFi128 1st. with its fuel pressure compensation, if one of your pumps dies, the EMS automatically adjusts boost, timing and fuel to compensate and save your motor.