Sequential greddy tt setup?
05-11-2011, 05:37 AM
#21
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You bought a built car from someone else without knowing the history or quality of what wad done. Not saying buying built is bad, because that's what I did..however I worked on the car for the original build, and helped rebuild the bottom end and looked over the whole motor and components before leaving with it.
My situation has been great, though I also have great support from my builder/tuner.
Find a shop or someone whoms work and knowledge you trust. Use the search function and Google to learn about things you don't fully understand. Check out other platforms and how they do things.
Knowledge is king. Good luck!
05-12-2011, 09:01 AM
#22
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so it'll need to be adjusted. i guess saying it will need to be tuned isn't quite the right words to use.
05-13-2011, 08:40 AM
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Yes, you have to adjust the duty cycle on the boost solenoid. If you have a light spring the duty cycle will be high in order to hold the higher level of boost you want. When you put a heavier spring on you have to turn the duty cycle down on the boost controller to maintain the same level of boost you had before.
so it'll need to be adjusted. i guess saying it will need to be tuned isn't quite the right words to use.
so it'll need to be adjusted. i guess saying it will need to be tuned isn't quite the right words to use.
05-13-2011, 09:57 AM
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np, hope you get it figured out.
truthfully, i would take it to a shop so they can get it all setup correctly then from there you have a great map and you can learn from it then. that way you know the timing is at least safe and you can just stay below that level.
truthfully, i would take it to a shop so they can get it all setup correctly then from there you have a great map and you can learn from it then. that way you know the timing is at least safe and you can just stay below that level.
05-13-2011, 10:27 AM
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thats the plan.. just ordered .7bar wastegate springs.. and a external utec map selector.. 3 tunes.. economy... .7bar for daily drving.. and a gogo map for killen cobra's.. etc.. lol
tryinto make/find time to get to maperformance in mpls for the dyno tuning to get done.. here Jordan there is pretty good..
only problem is that he doesn't want to tune on a utec!? he stated that they quit doin that a couple years back and really
don't want to do another one.. So.. im tryin to appeal to his better nature to win him over for a tune!!
tryinto make/find time to get to maperformance in mpls for the dyno tuning to get done.. here Jordan there is pretty good..
only problem is that he doesn't want to tune on a utec!? he stated that they quit doin that a couple years back and really
don't want to do another one.. So.. im tryin to appeal to his better nature to win him over for a tune!!
Last edited by 15lb.test; 05-13-2011 at 10:29 AM.
05-13-2011, 10:49 AM
#26
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what does he tune with?
they did stop supporting utec so technically he is right but it doesn't make the whole thing crap.
As long as he knows how to tune it and he is good then it will be fine.
they did stop supporting utec so technically he is right but it doesn't make the whole thing crap.
As long as he knows how to tune it and he is good then it will be fine.
05-13-2011, 11:03 AM
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I honestly don't konw what he tunes with.. I was reffered to him by a friend of mine who has an insane evo.. swears by him..
http://www.maperformance.com/services.html
maybe this will explain? Im a noob at this so all help/advice is well recieved..
http://www.maperformance.com/services.html
maybe this will explain? Im a noob at this so all help/advice is well recieved..
05-13-2011, 11:11 AM
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cobb tuner, haltech, hydra, utec, greddy emanage
those are what it says he tunes with so he has experience in utec. Out of those 5 the only other one i would let someone tune with would be haltech (what i run). hydra and cobb tuner are out of the question for me.
oh, split second also but that would be a step back from utec although a simple and easy piggyback.
those are what it says he tunes with so he has experience in utec. Out of those 5 the only other one i would let someone tune with would be haltech (what i run). hydra and cobb tuner are out of the question for me.
oh, split second also but that would be a step back from utec although a simple and easy piggyback.
05-13-2011, 11:45 AM
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true, but i am getting alot of hesitation when building boost. This is suppose to be due to the light springs in there.. The old tuner said that if i put 10lb'rs in that will go away.. Thus the reason for the change.. You think to leave them though..?
05-13-2011, 11:51 AM
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that's a lie. the hesitation isn't from light springs. it's probably from the tune when it switches over to the piggyback.
You should have your controller set to kick in about 2psi or so then it will hold the wastegate closed until your set boost amount. That's the best option like stated above. Although if you are going for 15psi you won't want a spring less than half that pressure. I think your springs are .5 bar not 5psi. Didn't you say with the controller off it was holding around 7-8 psi? If so that's about the spring pressure you want.
You should have your controller set to kick in about 2psi or so then it will hold the wastegate closed until your set boost amount. That's the best option like stated above. Although if you are going for 15psi you won't want a spring less than half that pressure. I think your springs are .5 bar not 5psi. Didn't you say with the controller off it was holding around 7-8 psi? If so that's about the spring pressure you want.
05-13-2011, 12:01 PM
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that's a lie. the hesitation isn't from light springs. it's probably from the tune when it switches over to the piggyback.
You should have your controller set to kick in about 2psi or so then it will hold the wastegate closed until your set boost amount. That's the best option like stated above. Although if you are going for 15psi you won't want a spring less than half that pressure. I think your springs are .5 bar not 5psi. Didn't you say with the controller off it was holding around 7-8 psi? If so that's about the spring pressure you want.
You should have your controller set to kick in about 2psi or so then it will hold the wastegate closed until your set boost amount. That's the best option like stated above. Although if you are going for 15psi you won't want a spring less than half that pressure. I think your springs are .5 bar not 5psi. Didn't you say with the controller off it was holding around 7-8 psi? If so that's about the spring pressure you want.
nope.. had the controler on 1 not off. then it was at 7-8.. it was a long day... lol so for 14-15 psi tuned .7bar would be correct no?
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