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FI 3.5 to 3.3 FD comparison question

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Old May 21, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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Question FI 3.5 to 3.3 FD comparison question

How many here have switched from 3.5 FD to 3.3 FD with boost? Did it make that car that more streetable? We're only talking .2 differance. On an NA car this wouldn't be very noticeable but on an FI car is it worth it? Acceleration is still strong but with that much more traction?

Last edited by Lakeside; May 21, 2011 at 02:21 PM.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 01:49 PM
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I switched out my stock 3.5 vlsd with a 3.3 quaife when I was NA, in preparation for FI. The difference was definitely noticeable.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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Look up Alberto thread about the conversion. He posted the speed difference and etc.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 04G35tt
I switched out my stock 3.5 vlsd with a 3.3 quaife when I was NA, in preparation for FI. The difference was definitely noticeable.
NA it would be very noticeable! I mean for those who have gone from 3.5 to 3.3 while boosted......

I am looking to do a GTM stage 1 with OSG twin disk clutch with possibly 3.3 FD, if not then with 3.5 FD.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Lakeside
NA it would be very noticeable! I mean for those who have gone from 3.5 to 3.3 while boosted......

I am looking to do a GTM stage 1 with OSG twin disk clutch with possibly 3.3 FD, if not then with 3.5 FD.
do stage 2 with the gt 28s def worth it
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Old May 21, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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^^^ Dead?! What happened? I am only looking to be around 485-500 whp. Stage 2 would be okay if I built the engine. I'm not looking to kill the engine.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 10:58 PM
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The majority that have 3.3 agreed that it is only beneficial if you are over 550whp. There was a discussion thread about it at one time.
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Old May 21, 2011 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Lakeside
^^^ Dead?! What happened?
contaminated gas from the pump, gas company's ins is paying for a full rebuild
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Old May 22, 2011 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Lakeside
^^^ Dead?! What happened? I am only looking to be around 485-500 whp. Stage 2 would be okay if I built the engine. I'm not looking to kill the engine.
we made 485 at like 7-8 psi with theyre stage 2 kit spooled quick s fawk still and still left room for going bigger down the road (which iam atm) u go stage 1 and u wanna build later turbos might max out twords ur top end id think. and filled up with what i thought was premium but to my surprise was severly contaminated with disel, caused some major scaringand burnt the valves pretty good. the stations insurance company paying for a rebuild and such so all is well
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Old May 22, 2011 | 03:29 AM
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Don't do STG 1, because one day you will go with a built engine.

Beside, with stock engine with the STG 2 would pull like crazy up top in the rpm's.

Last edited by midz350; May 22, 2011 at 03:37 AM.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 08:05 AM
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Even with Stage 1 on the GTM kit you are still talking 500ish, i think that's sufficient for most peoples goals. Stage 1 spools quicker than the stage 2, that's why i went with the smaller turbine.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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for the lazy https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ed-review.html
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Old May 22, 2011 | 09:24 AM
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Originally I was thinking a Stage 2 kit. But I know it will be sometime before I do anything with the engine. At least 2-4 years. I would like it to spool up relatively quickly. Thats why I am alittle afraid to run 3.3's. Possibly stage 2 kit with 3.5's and call it a day?

I'll have to look at the Dyno's of the stage 2 kit vs the Stage 1 kit. Agreed, it is always nice to have room to grow.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Lakeside
How many here have switched from 3.5 FD to 3.3 FD with boost? Did it make that car that more streetable? We're only talking .2 differance. On an NA car this wouldn't be very noticeable but on an FI car is it worth it? Acceleration is still strong but with that much more traction?
Well, you said it wasn't noticeable, that's why I commented that it was. Fwiw, the guy who sold it to me had an aps single turbo kit pushing around 450 and thought the 3.3 would help him with his traction problems, he said it did help, but it made his car feel slower on the low end of his power band. The traction gain up top couldn't make up for the lack of acceleration down low at his power level.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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Ahhh yeah I ment to say NA it would be very noticeable. My typo!

Thats what I would be affraid of but I will most likely try 3.3 FD in hopes that it will improve traction, but not kill bottom end acceleration. I just don't want to make the wrong compromises. I'll have to read through the 11 pages on that link provided above this week.
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Old May 22, 2011 | 02:07 PM
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why not get good tires 1st, and then worry about final drive after you get your car built.
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Old May 23, 2011 | 04:07 AM
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If you want to enjoy driving your car again, the 3.3 is the way to go. with the 3.5, any amount of gas resulted in ... spin..shift to 2nd, spin, shift to 3rd, spin, shift to 4 spin....... and into 6th and cruise.

now with the 3.3 is like, spin, shift into 2nd, spin, shift into third, a chirp, and shift into 4th and go
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Old May 23, 2011 | 05:57 AM
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3.5 to 3.3 swap was great for my car (originally 530rwhp pump gas, then 650rwhp pump gas)....but more importantly than hp is your tq.....gotta have plenty of mid range tq to make it worthwhile. But I no longer had to shift like a monkey on crack after the swap....and having 4th take you to 135+mph was very nice.....

tom
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Old May 23, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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Well I can tell you from my personal experience that it helped a ton. After I got my short block making 500whp and 500trq on greedy kit with stock cams. My third gear was stupid I couldn't get traction at all until fourth gear, although my alignment wasn't the best. Swapped the diff to the 3.3 and Im able to hold traction on 3rd gear now. Now the problem is 2nd I'm trying to work on alignment and better tires because there is no hooking in 2nd for no one.
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Old May 18, 2023 | 12:47 PM
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Sorry to revive an old thread but didn't want to start a new since this topic has been posted many times. If anyone can chime in as to how wheel size effectively changes the final drive ratio or if the effects are negligible. I have used a RPM calculator and see that running a 19" wheel with 3.53 final drive is similar to a 18" wheel with 3.35 final drive. Although I am looking to supercharge my Z I was looking at the HKS kit so much more power under the curve. Is better to leave my default at 19" with 3.53 final drive or up my final drive to 3.69 to bring inline with the stock setup at 18" wheel and 3.53 ratio? Thanks!
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