~Final Build thread~
Hi guys
last year I installed a Vortech and I had problems with my engine(dead).. not caused by the vortech, the headgaskets were dead and such... long story!
anyways this is my build list for the things that is being installed at this moment:
-Forged Performance S1 Shortblock
*9.0:1 Arias Extreme Duty Pistons
*Manley connecting rods
*ACL bearings
*ARP main studs
-Stillen TD 2.5" exhaust
-Stillen oil cooler
-CJM fuel return system stg 1
-ARP L19 head studs
-Rev-up oil pump
-NGK one step colder spark plugs
-DeatcshWerks 600cc injectors
-Vortech v2
-2.87 or 2.62 pulley (not sure yet)
I have the UTEC EMS with everything that comes with it.. but noone who knows about it around here where I live, so I'll be looking for a new EMS..
I'm looking for a 928M impeller and to upgrade the IC in the future..
my final goal is 450-500WHP
for now I would be more than happy to have my car back without boost
last year I installed a Vortech and I had problems with my engine(dead).. not caused by the vortech, the headgaskets were dead and such... long story!
anyways this is my build list for the things that is being installed at this moment:
-Forged Performance S1 Shortblock
*9.0:1 Arias Extreme Duty Pistons
*Manley connecting rods
*ACL bearings
*ARP main studs
-Stillen TD 2.5" exhaust
-Stillen oil cooler
-CJM fuel return system stg 1
-ARP L19 head studs
-Rev-up oil pump
-NGK one step colder spark plugs
-DeatcshWerks 600cc injectors
-Vortech v2
-2.87 or 2.62 pulley (not sure yet)
I have the UTEC EMS with everything that comes with it.. but noone who knows about it around here where I live, so I'll be looking for a new EMS..
I'm looking for a 928M impeller and to upgrade the IC in the future..
my final goal is 450-500WHP
for now I would be more than happy to have my car back without boost
Last edited by Erdem; Jun 15, 2011 at 03:07 AM.
Tried sending you a PM but my350z kept timing out. Sounds like fun times ahead. Consider our Haltech EMS sale for your car, https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5115...-and-more.html
the UTEC is sooo easy to tune since the stock ECU controls the harder to tune stuff like decel cuts, starting, etc. I wouldnt even consider a Haltech for that setup.
Just put -10 for fuel in the 0% column, and then start logging AFR under boost. You only have to adjust a few cells in each column since the boost is directly tied to rpm. After a few logs you can determine the exact range of boost each 10% column is referencing.
ie: 10% = 1-2 psi, 20%= 2-4 psi, etc. and then you know you will always hit 2-4 psi between 3500 and 4500 rpms. So you only really have to be concerned with the 3500-4500 rpms cells in the 20% column. Just linearize the adjacent cells that arent being used to make for a smooth map. Just do that for each of the columns.
if something with the complexity of the Haltech interests you though, def look at the classifieds. I know there are a few there going for great deals!
Just put -10 for fuel in the 0% column, and then start logging AFR under boost. You only have to adjust a few cells in each column since the boost is directly tied to rpm. After a few logs you can determine the exact range of boost each 10% column is referencing.
ie: 10% = 1-2 psi, 20%= 2-4 psi, etc. and then you know you will always hit 2-4 psi between 3500 and 4500 rpms. So you only really have to be concerned with the 3500-4500 rpms cells in the 20% column. Just linearize the adjacent cells that arent being used to make for a smooth map. Just do that for each of the columns.
if something with the complexity of the Haltech interests you though, def look at the classifieds. I know there are a few there going for great deals!
Last edited by str8dum1; Jun 15, 2011 at 06:22 AM.
Thanks man 
Hi Hal.. PM'ed you back 
so you think I should tune it myself?

Tried sending you a PM but my350z kept timing out. Sounds like fun times ahead. Consider our Haltech EMS sale for your car, https://my350z.com/forum/engine/5115...-and-more.html

the UTEC is sooo easy to tune since the stock ECU controls the harder to tune stuff like decel cuts, starting, etc. I wouldnt even consider a Haltech for that setup.
Just put -10 for fuel in the 0% column, and then start logging AFR under boost. You only have to adjust a few cells in each column since the boost is directly tied to rpm. After a few logs you can determine the exact range of boost each 10% column is referencing.
ie: 10% = 1-2 psi, 20%= 2-4 psi, etc. and then you know you will always hit 2-4 psi between 3500 and 4500 rpms. So you only really have to be concerned with the 3500-4500 rpms cells in the 20% column. Just linearize the adjacent cells that arent being used to make for a smooth map. Just do that for each of the columns.
if something with the complexity of the Haltech interests you though, def look at the classifieds. I know there are a few there going for great deals!
Just put -10 for fuel in the 0% column, and then start logging AFR under boost. You only have to adjust a few cells in each column since the boost is directly tied to rpm. After a few logs you can determine the exact range of boost each 10% column is referencing.
ie: 10% = 1-2 psi, 20%= 2-4 psi, etc. and then you know you will always hit 2-4 psi between 3500 and 4500 rpms. So you only really have to be concerned with the 3500-4500 rpms cells in the 20% column. Just linearize the adjacent cells that arent being used to make for a smooth map. Just do that for each of the columns.
if something with the complexity of the Haltech interests you though, def look at the classifieds. I know there are a few there going for great deals!
I reccomend everyone learn themselves. To me the funniest DIY aspect of a car. But that depends on how much you understand how an engine works.
Its not a "black art" the way many will have you believe. Whether you stay with your utec, go with uprev or haltech.
Its not a "black art" the way many will have you believe. Whether you stay with your utec, go with uprev or haltech.
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Originally Posted by maXmood
All the best Erdem.. can't wait to see it back and running
and the same goes for you car.. how is it going with her btw??
I'll try it out when I get the car back
is there any DIY for this?
or should I "just" read the manual @TurboXs.com?
Last edited by Erdem; Jun 16, 2011 at 03:58 AM.
once you understand what the the load columns represent is very easy. But you will still want a load dyno to really dial in the timing.
connecting your wideband and using http://jeffsoftware.com/ to combine the UTEC logs with AFR makes its soo easy to dial in your AFR
Haltech isnt hard either, but getting the starting params and the decel/light accel def takes some experience.
get the car back and make some logs. thats the best way to learn, is to see what the car is doin and then adjust from there.
connecting your wideband and using http://jeffsoftware.com/ to combine the UTEC logs with AFR makes its soo easy to dial in your AFR
Haltech isnt hard either, but getting the starting params and the decel/light accel def takes some experience.
get the car back and make some logs. thats the best way to learn, is to see what the car is doin and then adjust from there.
Last edited by str8dum1; Jun 16, 2011 at 06:03 AM.
the old motor was complete stock..

actually Sharif talked me into the low CR which would be the quickest solution + his, in-house built shortblocks makes about the same as the stock motor power wise

what do you think about this? I know you have some experiences about this subject..
Well, any build with a Vortech and a built engine has a potential for high power...nowhere near high power of the turbo guys, but anything over 460whp with a supercharger for the Z is impressive...
I know what you're talking about with the pistons; anything higher than 8.8~9.0 CR but lower that 11.0 high compression CR for N/A usually requires a custom piston build; I had to wait an extra month for 9.5 CR pistons...
I think you'll make good power with the 9.0 CR (Just ask PharmD, lol) with the right pulley setup; but I know some people on the forums have been talking about pushing the limit to 10.0 CR with the Vortech, and I was hoping you would be first one to test it
...but hey, better to be safe than sorry...
thank you sir.... IF it turns out as a "high-power" vortech build
actually Sharif talked me into the low CR which would be the quickest solution + his, in-house built shortblocks makes about the same as the stock motor power wise
what do you think about this? I know you have some experiences about this subject..
I know what you're talking about with the pistons; anything higher than 8.8~9.0 CR but lower that 11.0 high compression CR for N/A usually requires a custom piston build; I had to wait an extra month for 9.5 CR pistons...
I think you'll make good power with the 9.0 CR (Just ask PharmD, lol) with the right pulley setup; but I know some people on the forums have been talking about pushing the limit to 10.0 CR with the Vortech, and I was hoping you would be first one to test it
thank you sir.... IF it turns out as a "high-power" vortech build

actually Sharif talked me into the low CR which would be the quickest solution + his, in-house built shortblocks makes about the same as the stock motor power wise

what do you think about this? I know you have some experiences about this subject..

I had 2.87 pulley and was hitting just over 14 psi by reving to 7700 rpms. No need for that 2.6 pulley (it slips really easy also). The 9.28 impeller would be a wise decision and upgrade the supercharger bearings while you are at it for more protection.
Mine was 451hp on Injected Performance DD dyno. It was a very strong beast. I wish i would have stayed with is for ease of tuning and less headaches. I could have made so much more power with it by upgrading the intercooler and using e85 or a meth injection.
and you are right, too much $$ to spend on a Vortech build.. Ppl make 450 hp with their stock motor..
when I get tired of the Vortech, If.. then I'll go TT

I think you'll make good power with the 9.0 CR (Just ask PharmD, lol) with the right pulley setup; but I know some people on the forums have been talking about pushing the limit to 10.0 CR with the Vortech, and I was hoping you would be first one to test it
...but hey, better to be safe than sorry...
+ I feel like this is the best solution for me.. I always have the opportunity to go TT later on
Last edited by Erdem; Jun 20, 2011 at 05:29 AM.
a small update...
the engine is assembled and going in to the car today.. BUT the valve cover is cracked (the mechanics fault) he agreed to cover it.. a 14 days deliver time for the cover is making me
the engine is assembled and going in to the car today.. BUT the valve cover is cracked (the mechanics fault) he agreed to cover it.. a 14 days deliver time for the cover is making me
Last edited by Erdem; Jun 21, 2011 at 03:56 AM.






