I have a turbonetics charged 350Z and I am on stock internals. There may be a difference in the I don't have to rev the engine as high in to the rpms to get my power compared to the Vortech.

However, the secret in saving your STOCK motor is using boost sparingly or for certain moments of fun. My Z has 100,600 miles on it and it has been turbo'd for atleast 65,000 miles. I get in to boost every time I drive it but it is almost never HIGH boost and if it is, I only use it for a few seconds to a minute of continuous boost before I take my foot off the gas.

I do plan on building my motor-up soon.

 

Tyler, right on man, glad to hear you're still into it. A Vortech on that would be badass!

 

I have been weighing my options and it may look like a built long block with a modified Vortech system in order to stay CARB compliant in California.

Edit: I see what you did there, Ruth.

 

Best said right there. There are so many variables that go into how long your car will last with FI. Best thing you can do to insure the most success is the tune and install. We ran our G35 Sedan at 444whp (Dyno Dynamics) on a 2.87 .... beat the **** out of it for over a year and then ran into oil consumption issues so took it all out for a turbo kit and built block.

 

itll be a kenne bell or whipple most likely...twin screw on these FTW

 

Haha yeah I posted a little slow on that one!

 

^and for the other comment, im not gonna single anyone out but i see no reason a person with no experience in F/I on these cars should give any advice on this topic at all...if someone doesnt wanna weigh out those options then have at it..all i know is i had zero issues at all but i had a backup car just in case...i never had to use it and i daily drove the z from the day i got it to the day i sold it..like i said a good install with no corners cut and a good tune goes a long way...i did my own install and had vinny ten in long island tune the car..as u can see from the sig it ran very well for what it was and held up till i parted it out and sold it

 

Word. This thread is dead anyway, so are you running DRs on the 5.0 or just streets? I've only had one V8, a Iroc-Z back in the day, and it was squirley as hell.

 

its just on black cobra r replica wheels..10.5 wide in the rear with 285's bf goodrich street tires...drag radials some day and another set of et streets for track wheels prolly...It has factory 3.73's in it, intake, catback and a tune on it right now..nothin too crazy yet..yes it will get squirrly...this new 5.0 coyote motor is a beast...very impressed with it stock and how it responds to mods

 

You want longevity, here is an example. I have a 2003 Nissan 350z. I bout it new in 03. In 04 I had a Vortech SC installed. 2.87 pulley, stilllen headers and exhaust, high flow cats, fuel rails and injectors. My car now has 113k miles. 103k miles with the SC. Of the whole SC set up I have had to replace the belts twice, had the blow off valve rebuilt once. The SC and engine are still running strong. I change the oil every 5k miles, with mobile 1 5w 30 synthetic. It is tuned to 420HP. Still on original stock clutch. If you take care of it and don't drive the car like an idiot, it should last. I get one it, my discount tire dealer can attest to that. But I don't red line it at every red light.

 

/THREAD.....

 

That is the best testament I have heard to date!

 

or mine as an '04 with 100,600 miles total, with about 65,000 turbocharged and I havent' replaced a thing on the system. Might be more impressive for me as the turbo gets in to the powerband far earlier than the S/C so there is more stress on the engine earlier.

Either way, I follow the same principle as the S/C guy- I have spirited moments of fun but mostly treat the car well.

 

all engines can blow when you beat on them, built or not. As others have mentioned, don't go FI unless you're perfectly fine with it blowing up on the dyno, on the way to work the following week, or 3 years down the road... you never know. Have another beater car to get to work when you're down for any reason, and be sure to research how much a longblock will cost you -- keep at least $4k ready to swap in a used stock longblock assuming you won't be doing all the work yourself. Or, have $9-$10k laying around if you want a low end built longblock assembled and installed by a reputable shop.

 

Great results for both of you. Vortech recommends rebuild every 30k miles, just an FYI . Vortech is a bit more simple to drive around without ever making boost.

 

What is it they suggest to rebuild? Something inside the blower or also the cogs and belts?

 

bearings and seals

 

looks like it was a single jingle those motors are a dime a dozen dont take long to swap out just need a jack and some basic hand tools could all be done for under 300 and your time. why you should have done is picked up a gsr my froends gsr swapped 95 coupe just has every bolt on imaginable and crazy suspension and he can stay on my *** in the twistys when i was stock but when there was a straight i went bye bye . he is the only honda driver i have respect for he built the car right