f150intally

iTrader: (1)

I understand your point now that you have written it in respectful, civil manner. Like I said, I heavily considered the Greddy kit. This build came down to Forged/Greddy and Z1/GTM. I will mention that the HR Greddy kit was being offered at nearly $10k for the kit alone without fuel, BOVs, etc. due to revised pricing from Greddy. So I was spending more and getting less. I understand that fitment and quality is also high with the Greddy kit.

I think I will love the GTM kit as well and I know that it also uses very high quality components. My friend's experience with the kit has been great and Z1 has great success with them.

Any other things folks can share regarding what to watch out for regarding boosted 350s that might be helpful I am willing to take in. I am learning that common issues we ran into with the SR swaps are not so much issues with the 350z. One I can think of is that high horespower SR swaps would run into issues with the Walbro at High RPMs because the wiring in the S13 chassis to the fuel pump wasn't the greatest and you could experience a voltage drop to the walbro. We had to wire in relays directly from the battery to prevent that from happening. Any things like that that I should look out for?

Thanks.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

in my perspective there wasn't any difference between the two posts (aside from an emoticon lol), ive gotten used to the coarseness here in the fi forum...

I personally never see a time when you shouldn't wire a relay off the battery, it's the right way to do it. That would also make it less sloppy to run a boost a pump later or switch to a better pump. But a 255 should run fine off the stock wiring.

If I were you i'd invest in a return system and fpr, as well as the best ecu you can afford. Both of these mods should pay for themselves. Obviously who tunes your car makes a big difference too. personally i'm waiting on an a1000 fpr and veyron pump from injected/dynosty and I have a haltech (courtesy of blackbird's part out ). Osiris would probably be fine for your goals, but I'm very much anti maf... if you can afford a haltech or vipec etc (high end standalones) go for it. I wouldn't recommend an hks (due to the ecu only tunable by pro tuners) but i have personally seen some fast *** cars running hks standalones (2 mk4's and 1 sti). You would have to pay a premium for it, and only certain shops can tune it but that would be up to your discretion.
PS just get used to the fi section here, its different than on other forums by a lot.
and RB>KA>SR. sr's aint sh*t bruhhh!

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

I'm interested to hear what sam's definition of "abusive driving"... I think he just means WOT

Whatever you do, just follow the prescription of your tuner....

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Then why not have those same friends help you with a straight forward TT stock block install?

THIS!! Maybe thats why I spin bearings?!?!?! If its tuned to 600whp, why drive it a 400whp? I think of the car like a tool, if I buy a 2lb sledge hammer, I don't use it to tap in finishing nails... I bust shizz up. Every time I drove the car, I drove it like I stole it.

Too many dynos floating around with hero pulls from shops that happened while the owners weren't there to see the intakes come off, two 200+lb guys in the hatch and crazy timing.

Most people do the exact opposite with stock block power. They drive at or near their max whp and then up the boost occasionally because it is like crack. Then, one day its just your turn and... BOOM!! Very few are able to avoid this temptation (Jeffie and Keith are two of the few).

See, you get past the hazing and then you hand it out to others I can't wait to see what you'll be like if your car makes the numbers you are expecting... you may become another Alberto

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

I was more annoyed because i had spent 99% of my time in the fi forums since i joined here etc... lol
but yeah i can't wait to get the car moving... im trying to decide if i should max out the eagle rods or upgrade (the block is at the machine shop currently so nothing's totally set in stone, although i already have the eagles there and the wisecos... btw if you run wisecos they will make the power you want except you need about a 4 thousandths clearance and upgraded wrist pin. They won't resist detonation as well as others, but they can make the power)

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

A simple matter of time and family priorities. I work too much to spend a couple weekends putting my car together and ignoring my family. Since the last time we have swapped engines, put together turbo kits, etc we have all had at least two kids.

Trust me, I would love nothing more than to install everything myself so I can know it is done right but I just don't have the time.

jeffie7

iTrader: (4)

My 350Z is a straight up toy, I take it out to play. When I drive my Z I hit full boost more times then I can count and that's just one way lol. I love my Z =)

The key to having a good FI car is to know what to look for. Every time I take my car out, I check vac lines, I check the oil, I check my catch can. That's a given every single time, I take it out every few weeks, if I'm busy, once a month. If I drove my car daily I'd check it no less then once a week.


I had a built motor boosted honda civic for a DD when I was younger. I told myself never again would I have a DD boosted car (not factory boost) ever again. So much upkeep went into making sure it was running correctly.

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Ah....if you had a built boosted civic you probably frequented honda-tech. The 606whp civic was tuned by a tuner on there known as Mase and the block was built by Taylor Durdan that now works for S&R down in Tampa.

That dang motor was spun to 9000+ rpm Honda heads are ridiculous.

jeffie7

iTrader: (4)

I stayed away from honda-tech. Mostly spent my time in the classifieds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BIdXMOyHIo

That's my old civic. It was black when I had it. I also wasn't making as much power since I was daily driving it.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Jeffie you had a 9 second honda??

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I don't think I heard either of their BOV's before...LOL I drew the line at 10psi for track abuse / roll races and 8-9psi for DD. Worked out for the past few years.

And Cass, you might be the next E-Alberto (the shooting down noobs part)

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Cool. I think i stated in my first post, I like all fast cars. We don't have a track video but here is a link to my Youtube for the Civic...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePyKMw9STEw

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

LOL @ Jeff

I had a 12 second Civic then somebody changed the set up and painted it and it ran 9's....here is a video of something that is totally different than what I owned.

jeffie7

iTrader: (4)

LOL no no no. I never tracked my car, I drove it in the 250WHP range where it was somewhat usable on the streets. Same setup with boost turned up netted 570WHP the 9 second run was done with a 1.8L motor at around 870WHP.

I had a 1.6L

I built it for the street and after blowing up 2 motors trying to save some money. I said F it, do everything right so the **** will stay together. So I ran very low power out of a high powered motor. Again, I like to run what I use. It's not about what the car can make but rather what you drive the car with.

250WHP was enough power to spin 3rd gear at any point if I floored it.

FWD on the street sucks. Half throttle runs that would milk most cars FTW. Full throttle runs that would leave you sitting there FAIL.

jeffie7

iTrader: (4)

I posted it more so for the guy who goes to honda-tech Joe is pretty well known there and if I posted my stuff up, he wouldn't put two and two together.

I ran my car at less then 50% of the power of what my setup did make.

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

before we did the big setup on the civic we installed a Greddy kit that made 250whp. That was a fun ride on the street. That was on the stock B16. I think the owner loved the car most at that horsepower. The built B18 was short-lived, the first time at the track my buddy destroyed a Gator Racing axle on the launch. Exploded in the Diff... The Quaiffe was fine but the axle was destroyed. The car was parted out after that.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Agreed Fail Wheel Drive sucks. I remember the first time my brother took me out in his lil golf. lol 1.8t, torque steers like a pig and barely had any power.

My buddy made a turbo kit for a b16 honda and it made 315whp on like the 2nd pull on 9 psi. It got tuned to 325whp on stock block, and apparently it was a pretty good street car, good spool etc.
vtec flows pretty well especially when you tune the cam swap timing and all that jazz, but fwd just wastes the power. I've never been in a modified fwd car that I liked. Handling is fine when set up right, but torque steer blows ***.
and i have to interject about (imo) the biggest fwd let down... vw vr6's. beast motors for FI but fwd just sucks... they sound soooo sick too. on the utubez there is an b5 s4 with vr6 swap and there is a vr6 swapped s3 (2 door awd hatch) from cyprus, both f*cking sweet *** cars.

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

If you watch the video I posted you can see the torque steer in the shot where I'm filming the gauges, watch the drivers hands. Also when car is going away from the camera man following that other car, you can see the car dart close to the center lane! You can imagine how bad torque steer is with 606whp. The car was running drag radials as well.

f150intally

iTrader: (1)

Please be sure to see the question at the end of this lengthy post.....

Had the chance as I was in Atlanta on business to meet the guys at Z1 Motorsports including a tour of the facility. What a great experience. I managed to get all of my questions answered by John Parham, Service Manager and Head Tuner In Charge. John seems to be a great guy. I felt really good about the complex. The entire property is surrounded by a pretty high chain link fence that I think they may lock each night. Storage of the car is a concern but I felt comfortable. Workspace seems to have appropriate spacing between racks, etc. That is obviously a concern because bad things can happen in cramped work spaces, dents, dings, etc. John probably thinks I'm crazy because of how many questions I have but my nature is I need to know why on everything. At the end of the day if everyone is more educated it usually results in positive experience. I feel like if the shop doing work knows the customer is informed, there would be less of a chance to not tell the truth all the time. Not saying this is how Z1 is but shops can be shady to say the least. I feel careful enough and knowledgeable enough about forced induction stuff to detect if someone is feeding me BS and it I think it helps for the players to know this as well.

John contacted Sam while I was there to find out about the status of the remaining parts including the slave cylinder and downpipes, recirc etc. and they shipped today. Sam called John back immediately while we were standing there. One thing I really like is that the level of communication between John and GTM is very high. They obviously talk daily as far as I could tell which I think is important between shop and manufacturer. I could quickly tell that if John is troubleshooting issues and something stumps them they work hard with GTM to resolve things. It's nice to see a relationship like this. I think this becomes a problem at times when the shop doing the installation makes their own provisions for things to work.

Those are my impressions so far. I feel lucky to be able to spend so much time with John who will be overseeing, QC'ing, and tuning my car. BIG props for him to take so much time with me (about 1.5 hours). I had a list of about 10 questions about the install and every question was answered. One question John probably hadn't heard before was is there anything they do that deviates from the installation instructions provided by GTM. I feel like this is important because if I'm troubleshooting an issue the first thing I'm going to do is look at the kit instructions to troubleshoot if I feel its a turbo kit issue. John said they did that once and ended up having to take the car back apart so they follow instructions to a "T" which I think is great.

I'll keep you posted... me and my best friend are making the trek Friday night and dropping the car off first thing Saturday morning.

I do have one question for you guys. I have four gauges to mount and a boost controller. Being that I would like nothing showing in the cabin that would indicate I wasn't stock, where can I mount the gauges and boost controller? I think boost under the dash would be ok but not sure I can fit four gauges in the cubby above the radio. Suggestions?

Thanks,
Jay

nathanwl2004

iTrader: (2)

never had any problems with forged, yet I got majorly screwed by z1 when they flat out lied to me about a garbage transmission they sold me. what I actually got was nothing even close to what they promised and I have the pictures to prove it.

as a matter of fact forged ended up replacing the transmission I bought from z1 when it took a total **** less than a year after installation.