Thanks again to Victor Reyes of RB Motoring, you're the man.
I'm so close I can taste it.

Look at how tiny and cute it is LOL!

This will hopefully stop people from saying it's a Walbro.

 

Is this a fix for a problem you are having or is it for growing room to go higher boost?
--
Jeff

 

I don't have any problems I just want more fuel to my larger injectors. They go just barely lean at redline, just barely. Noiw they won't.

 

Cool. Good luck with the install!
--
Jeff

 

MAX have you seen the fuel PSI droop @ redline?
Or have you noted that he injctor duty cycle is flat-line at redline"
or both?

Cause if you get no noted psi droop, then a new high capacity fuel pump wouldn't be expected to solve your leaning issue.

If the injector duty cycle is flat at red-line then you would either need bigger injectors or an increased fuel pressure. Either one of these would facilititate another ECU re-flash.

 

thanks G3po....finally we are getting some good info here!

 

Uh errr, I think I am just gonna go back to F-Bods.

Look man,

I bought larger injectors then reflashed already. Hello, is this thing on?

 

You dont have to be a dick about it..

 

I think teh question he wasking was a very good one: did you moniter fuel pressure with your old setup? If so, what did you find? Not saying the pump was not a good idea, just wondering if it was something you actually had a need for.

Does anyone know the stock specs of the std fuel pump (i.e liters or gallons per hour)?

 

Gotta love the internet

 

It is 210 and I got a 280L

I can't prove I am lean at redline the Ultimate Z car said he was but he is running a diiferent TS program than me.

All my numbers are in spec. I want 9 lbs. If I was staying at 7 I wouldn't buy this pump

Hope that helps!

 

whats with all the extra wire and hose? does it turn our returnless system into a return one?

 

got me man

I guess I will find out lol.

Victor said the kit "includes the wiring you need."

I pay people to do stuff lol, if I didn't I would be rich!

 

hard to tell but that is just plastic braided tubing sheath

 

oh ok thanks. It looked like hosing at first. I am pretty sure then that considering our pump works on voltage regulation (if thats a word) the sard unit needs a constant 12 volt supply to work properly.

 

I gotta start studying up on these returnless fuel systems.

Questons (for anyone that knows): got a diagram of the stock fuel rail layout for the Z? Curious to see how they maintake equalized pressure to each injector without a return...possibly a balance tube of some sort? Also curious to see where the regulator is.

12sec - you should try and have your installer measure fuel pressure at idle both before and after the pump install...curious to see how a returnless system deals with all that extra volume.

 

sp the plastic sheath is probably just protection for the wiring, they say there is an access panel to the pump

 

MAX I understand your setup, and the question was related to whether you really needed a new pump or not. Bigger isn't always better. You may need one, but hopefully for the right reasons.

I asked if after the TS reflash , did you note the lean condition and did you see a fuel psi droop of the psi at redline. A fule pressure guage is a handy tool to have when dinking with a FI system.

On a returnless system the fuel psi should remain constant ( unless a rising rate FMU was in use, as supplied with base ATI kit). What is suppose to change with RPM and Boost is Fuel volume , while pressure is held constant. If the pump were undersized in volume capcity, a droop in psi would occur under heavy load (ie. at redline under WOT)

So, If droop were observed then was the case then yes a higher volume pump would do the trick. But if no droop was noted , increasing pump volume woudl give you jack. Now if you intend to go with 9psi ,then you may ned more pump volume in orde rto maintain constant psi at redline. but then again you will reuire another re-flashh to adjust A/F and timng to the new slope of the new 9psi pulley. Unlike a piggyback ECU which would use a wide range MAP-type and RPM to map A/F and Timing the factory ECU (with a 7psi re-flash) would not automatically track with a smaller pully.

So, dude I do have a clue and two engineering degrees to back it up.

 

G3PO,

I'm not dissing you I know you know your cars. I just don't know the answers to some of your extremely technical questions.

You said I would need larger injectors and a reflash, I simply said I already did that. I know it's hard to know what everyone had done. I will try and be more clear.

A. TS did the injector install. I chose P.E. because they have a ten hole spray pattern. The RC's shippped are over 600 bucks you guys know this right? I paid 200 more, money well spent! The RC's I recieved had 3 HUGE holes in them and the fit wassn't very good. I returned them, so I can speak on that. I have had both.

B. TS Tadishi flashes my car and test drives 3 times until he feels comfortable. I shouldn't even of mentioned the lean at redline it is being blown out of proportion. Let me explain.

I talk to a guy in Chicago who has a 6MT who did this same thing before I did, same injectors etc. I had extreme doubt that the stock pump could feed the larger injectors. He was honest. He said they *might* run lean at the very end at redline but it is very *slight.* It was with 93 octane on a 6MT with a different flash program than I had.

So I went to TS in person (the other guy had to do all the TS stuff through the mail) and I wasn't lean, Tadishi wa suprised, the stock pump runs the 380's. I asked him about 9 lbs and he said you would need a larger fuel pump. He even told me who sold them, same place I bought the injectors. My goal has always been 9 lbs, I have had the pulley's since July!

I knew I was gonna need a larger fuel pump for the 9 lbs and I knew I was goona need a reflash for the 9 lbs but I was right in the middle of installing the cat pipes from RT. So now I have evrything. The 9 lb pullies, the cat pipes installed, and the fuel pump. *NOW* I sure plan on going back to TS and reflashing to a whole new program for my whole new setup. 9 lbs with the cat pipes. I wasn't gonna make a special trip just for the cat pipes because it is a 14 hour round trip. I hope this clears things up. If I wasn't going to 9 lb's I wouldn't have bought the pump and I wouldn't be reflashing. if I make these long posts it's easy to get the big picture.

Adam,

The fuel pump and the FPR is in the gas tank. However, you do not have to drop the tank. There is an easy access panel to them. I don't have any more room for any more guages lol. This is my daily driver and it's starting to look like a dang track animal!

 

Well when shooting for the increased volume , you may also eventually find that the fuel rail may be under-sized. At some point even a high volume pump alone woudl be inadequate (without added pressure). On the Z I don't know were the fuel tract becomes a blocking issue (TS probably does). But probably not at 9psi. But then again if you have upped the rev limiter , you may find that 9psi will produce more than 9.

For peace of mind there are two things you really should consider before ading any more boost. You don't want to risk another kaboom if you get a tank of crappy gas. And I personally know that Ca. 91 is not always consistant. And we are at a 2 point disadvataged to the East coasters already.

a) Fuel pressure gauge , tapped as close to the injectors as possible, there shoul be a nipple there fro that purpose. You should basically never see this move, regardless of load (unless of course you stilll used an FMU). Actualy if you had kept the FMU and set the scale high and flat TS could have changed the A/F map to dela with the add psi and you may not have needed anew fuel pump, but of curse that's extra baggage than necessary , but woudl re-use some of what you had.

b) some form of post ECU knock detection/protection.
Curently I am only aware of two:
- MSD Knock alert , simple and cheap. I use this now , it's crude , but works. The LED bar graph allows me to easily note the slight diffs in pump to pump and day to day , well before any "damge" coudl occur.
- J&S , more complex and more expensive, but appears to be a better choice. I wish for some improvements , but what they now offer will probably work well enough. If I sue there apporach I will consder adding a gate circuit so I don't "double duty" the plugs and shroten their life.

c) if it were me , I would use WI. The pure de-timing vs. boost is basically a 2 steps fwd , 1 step back game. The WI just lets you take 3 and 1 back on the same grade. But it's not maintenace free and requies more user attention.
d) also if it were me , I woudl consider Denso Iridiums. With the added pressure , you don't want any mis-fire potential and they effectly raise spark efficiency.

IMO