GaryK

I just finished installing the J&S in my car. It took about 2 hours to do the install. Unfortunately I can't do any tuning because it snowed and the roads are crappy.

For those who will be installing this, there are a couple potential hangups with the wiring.

Cyl 1 - Pin 81 is marked on the diagram as having a G/R wire. Mine is actually Green/Black.

Cyl 3 - Pin 61 is marked on the diagram as having a L/R wire. Mine is Blue/Red. I'm not sure what "L" stands for, maybe Light Blue?

IgnPwr - The diagram says use pin 108 W/L. The correct pin is actually 109, which is White/Black.


I am assuming that the pin numbers for the coil drive wires are all correct since I don't have the ecu wiring diagram. I still need to verify the wiring to make sure the pins really are correct, but I figured I'd go ahead and put this out here in case anybody else is installing and has some confusion on the wiring.

More later...

ravaz

iTrader: (1)

Hey Gary,

If you need a diagram, let me know. Did you take any pictures etc..? Looking forward to the rest of the post.

Bill

GaryK

Hey Bill, thanks for the offer on the diagram. I will have access to the Alldata diagrams on Monday, but if its something easy for you to email I'd just as soon take a look at it tonight.

jawbone

dont ask me why, 'L' in nissan (and other japanese cars) schematics is blue...
hope this helps

350zdanny

L in Nissan is Blue because B is black.

There should be a legend there.

Dan

GaryK

Thanks for the info on the "L" guys. I thought that might be the case...I'm used to dealing with the domestic stuff

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Gary. I will be watching your every post with baited breath since mine is on the way. How hard is the install? Jesse told me he thinks I can do mine myself but I don't know. Where exactly do you "tap into" the car to install this?

ChrisM

If I go FI I wanna get one of thies...How good are they at protecting your engine? Does it make it nearly impossible to blow your engine due to running lean? Any detailed info on thies would be very welcome.

Thanks,
Chris.

GaryK

Well the install isn't all that hard, but you do spend a lot of time in the floorboard. Its really kind of tedious.

You'll cut six wires going to the ecu connector and hook them into the adapter board. Then from that board you connect six wires to the J&S harness connector. From that connector you also connect the power and knock sensor wires to wires in the ecu connector using suppled electrical connectors. And one last wire is just the ground wire that you can connect to an existing ground point.

You'll also need to hook up a line to the J&S to sense boost, and that can be done by teeing into the line used for the fmu. I did use a different tee than what was supplied because the one they give you is meant to tee into a smaller plastic line rather than the hose used for the fmu.

After that, you'll want to leave the box loose temporarily for tuning it. In order to do that, you need to be able to get to the dip switches and dial adjustments, as well as watch the light on the box. As far as the inital settings, I still haven't decided what I'm going to do.

Once you're done and feel like you don't need to mess with it any more, you need to securely mount the box. It should fit behind the passenger side kick panel (under the ecu). There's enough room there to mount it vertically against the sheet metal with some screws.

A few tips:

To be safe, unhook the battery before messing with the wiring.

It helps to take the lower dash panel off on the passenger side. This panel is secured mostly by snap clips, but there is a screw on the lower right corner and a nut on the upper left corner that need to be removed. The screw is easy, but the drink holder will have to be removed to get to the nut in the left corner. The drink holder comes out by using a long thin screwdriver to press the release tab. Be careful pulling the panel off as some of the clips are tight.

The ecu connector needs to be disconnected from the ecu. This is hard to explain, but you have to press a tab to release an arm that swings down. This arm will unlock the connector and allow it to be pulled away from the ecu.

Also, you'll have to remove a small cover on the ecu connecter to see the pin numbers/locations. This is removed by releasing the retaining tabs on the end where the wires come out, then tilting out away from the connector. Have fun trying to read the pin markings on the connector Actually, it helps to have a printout of the connector so you can just count from a reference point on it to find the pin you want. I'll try to post a link to a diagram of this.

GaryK

These units are proven to work very well on a lot of different cars and applications. Nothing can make it impossible to blow the engine, but if the car is tuned well to begin with the J&S will go a long way to preventing catastrophic failure. If you want a good technical explanation, go here:


http://www.jandssafeguard.com/tech.html

They explain a lot there, if you read that and need to know more let us know.

GaryK

I'll try to take some pics and post them too...

GaryK

Ok, I have also just verified the issues I found with the J&S supplied wiring diagram. The factory manual indeed agrees with my findings:

Cyl 1 - Pin 81 is actually Green/Black.

Cyl 3 - Pin 61 is marked on the diagram as having a L/R wire. This signifies a Blue/Red wire, which is not obvious without additional info.

IgnPwr - The correct pin is actually 109, which is White/Black.


Email sent to John at J&S in case he wants to update his diagram.


Oh, and another tip I just thought of. The terminals on the adapter and the harness connector require a small blade type screwdriver. Make sure you use the proper one and get those terminals tight, as the wires will pull out easily if not tight enough.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

One more tip to add. If you have the Auto sport wiring harnes its easier to hook every thing up in your hous and not be on all fours under the dash.

Lastly when doing your roadtest/ tune, if you have the auto sport; warn the passanger of the auto sport. my guy put his foot through the IG power wire and blew a fusable link. Now the ECU is not gettin any power. trying to find that link.

Mean Gene

Gary - The GT Autosport harness certainly does make the install easier ( of course, it's too late for yours! ). In fact, I've used the harness to hook up both my J&S and my NX Maximizer. The Safeguard has allowed me to run more nitrous than most of the other squeeze users as I'm confident that the J&S will pull the timing plus the NX will shut down the system when the AFR leans out ( as programmed by me ). I also installed the J&S gauge to see under which conditions it pulls timing & how much so I know it's working.
GREAT piece of electronics, IMHO!!

Gene

Julian@MRC

iTrader: (28)

I blew the ECU relay on mine it is a small relay under the passenger side washer cowl in that fuse box BEHIND the battery...The J&S also blew several coils in my car.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Hows it running for you now? I had an odd result, When I went to start the car I would turn the key all the way to start and it would crank. as soon as I let off it would start??? Crazy huh?

Julian@MRC

iTrader: (28)

Mine did that same thing..I got rid of the J&S immidiately after I thought I fried my ECU and 2 coil packs with it..Its just not a good option IMO..There are many other better options out there..

John at J&S

You may have tapped an accessory power wire for the 12v. Many vehicles turn off accessories during cranking, which would produce the symptoms you describe.

Misswiring the unit can blow coils or cause missfires, as any system can.

Did you resell the unit? How is it working out for the new owner?

Julian@MRC

iTrader: (28)

Was wired in correctly, however the small screw terminals tend to come loose causing the condition I described, due to the wies comming out of the connector and being located so close together on the board... Also the wiring diagram supplied was incorrect..The new owner also has since sold it, So it is probably on its 4th owner now since I was the second owner..Not that the unit did not do what it was supposed to do, its just there are several plug and play options out there that do not require you to hack up your factory wiring harness..FYI my purchase was prior to the release of the autosport harness...
Also FYI this topic was from 2003