I thought you guys may appreciate my other project car.

Yeah, it was a 2wd DynaPack, but it's owned by a friend. Before last week we were sure that the dyno would not handle the power the car produced. Derek (dyno owner) contacted me and let me know that they had updated the firmware on the machine and it should handle the car. Of course I expect different numbers on different dynos but I believe I still have good cause to be excited.

Erb and I disabled the AWD and put the car on the trailer, away we went.

Keep in mind, I only street tune. I'm also still using a 3.5" GM MAF with the ECMLink cable. I did open the inside of the MAF up from the 2.95" neck down to a straight 3.1" through the element. Fuel is E85.

This was the most no-drama dyno session I have ever heard of. We put the car on the dyno and I made a pull on the wastegate springs. 725HP and I don't remember the torque. Wastegate pressure is 33psi.

The datalog and plugs looked good so up went the boost twistie. I think it made 38psi. and 825HP. Up some more to 40-41 and it made 873. Plugs still looked good along with the datalogs.

At this point I decided 900 would be enough and I'd stop there. Another small turn on the boost controller made about 42psi. and net 897HP. A little more was 43psi. and 918HP.

I was feeling good, the car was working right so I decided to keep going with boost. A small turn on the boost controller made 5psi more, to 48 and the dyno freaked out and shut down with a nice flashing red screen telling me to reduce torque immediately. Derek saw 650TQ flash at the shutdown, 50lb/f more than the last run. He is convinced it was a 1000+HP pull. Because of the shut down, the only record I have of the 918HP pull is in the video.

We decided to go back down a bit with boost and try to sneak up on the dyno's limit. I made one run at just under 43psi. for 909HP. I attempted to inch the boost back up but midway through the next run the one dyno pod ate an optical sensor and failed.

It sucks because I didn't get to tune spoolup, rev it out higher than 8500RPM, or play with cam timing. Once the dyno is fixed I'll have another go at it.

The other big thing to keep in mind is I DID NOT change fuel or timing once on the dyno. Not bad for a street tune.

Wastegate boost.



Just under 43psi.



Here is some video, NSFW for profanity.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiEfa...=youtube_gdata

 

Very nice. More info like a mods list.

 

Awesome! Very nice.

 

Ah crap, knew I forgot something.

A basic list:

Stock bore 2.0L 4G63
Stock 88mm stroke crank
Wiseco HD pistons
Groden aluminum connecting rods
HK$ head gasket
L19 studs
FRH race head
Kelford TX280 cams
SS nitrided intake and inconel exhaust valves
Magnus Motorsports cast DSM manifold
ShearerFab topmount T4 exhaust manifold
GT4202R with 1.28 A/R turbine housing
4" exhaust
3" hot side/3.5" cold side charge piping
5" thick Griffin FMIC core
3.5" GM MAF
Infiniti Q45 throttlebody
ECMLink V3 engine management (factory ECU)
Aeromotive mechanical hex drive fuel pump (driven by the exhaust cam, seen in the video)
ID2000 fuel injectors
Tilton carbon/carbon clutch
PPG straight cut dog engagment gearset

That's probably mostly everything that effects power production/delivery.

 

Jesus. 900 HP?

AND your G35 has twins?

Must be nice.

 

Nice. So you run the car in awd or no?
And is it a 7 bolt 4g or...?

Saw a ported 4g head at my machine shop... started talking about them with head machinist.. Those are some BOSS *** motors.

 

thats pretty sweet. a 74mm 4202 wont make 1000whp on a V6. those aluminum rods are nice.

How lazy does that feel on the street? you gonna have a 9000 rpm limit or higher? you sure dont have to worry about transitioning in and out of boost for normal driving


why was the car trailered? its not a queen is it? LOL

 

Nice numbers op, good to see people still build/tune this platform to this high of HP!

 

It's normally locked in 4WD. Local dyno options are limited. I couldn't get it to hook on a DynoJet 248C years ago at ~620WHP.

It's also a 6 bolt.

I normally rev it out to 10K RPM, but there was no reason to go that high just turning the boost up. I had planned to get to that point once I had the boost where I wanted it.

Honestly, it doesn't feel that lazy on the street at all. Power comes on hard and stays on.

I own a truck and a trailer, I knew I was going to beat on the car. No reason to have to worry about it getting me home. I also normally pull the transfer case and the rear driveshaft when making it FWD, this time I left the t-case on and just put a plastic plug in it to contain the oil. I didn't want to chance that coming out and burning up the case with no oil.

As for a queen, I bet this thing sees more street time than some of the cars in this FI forum.

 

sweet car. I rode in a 540 awhp gsx last weekend. I was passenger on some dig races and that thing hooked so hard and put the smack down on some 88mm boosted camaros. It was crazy feeling something hook that hard and just go.

150hp at 5500 rpm, lol

 

I've yet to find a rwd car that rips like an awd.
There are some 500whp dsms around here, ones got a gt35r and although I've yet to ride in it, I'm definitely afraid of it, and I will be even when my car's fully built! Nothing can touch awd with power and a good driver from low speeds. I've seen big hp supercharged c6's with slicks get raped from 10mph rolls... (IN video games of course ) by dsm's with 200 less hp...
Traction is a beautiful thing. lol!

 

I wouldn't be scare of one with a gt35r. My friend, tom, has a 63mm which is more like a gt37 and he's running almost 40psi of boost to get that 540.

 

Not on a roll race on a closed track, but from a dig... no chance. It's got a dog box and street slicks. Thing goes off with two step and a BANG!
Although when the 7175 is on my car I'd like to meet up on a close course and do a low speed roll on...
side note:
a 57mm is like a gt30 from what I've been told, and I know that originally gt37s are a 67mm (p trim me thinks) turbo (what AMS spec'd it out to be).

 

gt37s can be from 55mm to 64mm depending on model. they are large frame turbo, but impeller size isnt much different than a GT3582

 

smallest gt37 on garret site comp map:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...59-1comp_e.jpg

 

ahh only garret size their turbos by their compressor exducer. no one else does that. the 3776 is only a 55mm turbo, about same size as a 20G

 

I realized after I posted (my computer died like .5 sec after) that you were talking inducer sizing.
TBH, this is the first time I've ever heard people refer to turbo's by only inducer size, aside from the greddy/mitsu turbos (which I never know what people are talking about, unless they say the model like td06 or t88 etc). Precision does it by exducer too.
Whatever, we're all talking about the same sh*t

 

Actually, Precision uses the compressor inducer size in their model numbers. For example, the PT6765 CEA has a compressor with a 67mm inducer.

http://www.precisionturbo.net/Street...PT6765-CEA/270

Therefore, the Precision 7175 you speak of for your car has a 71mm inducer. I hope you knew that when you selected that turbo for your car. If you thought it was the compressor exducer size, you may want to reevaluate your turbo selection for your application.

 

Wow well that's a huge *** fail on my part. Just gonna pretend like that never happened...

I selected the turbo based off of power output/turbo flow, so everything is gravy. I made it this far with that basic mistake only because I never really compared sizes between turbos, but the flow rates/maps of turbos. Which is also kind of funny because precision doesn't have any for the billet turbos. People don't know/realize that compressor maps are really expensive to make!