I made 602rwhp @ 17.4psi with the GT3794R Uncorrected and 582rwhp SAE same pressure on 93 oct.

I went from GReddy twins to the MP kit. I don't think I said it in my thread. Need to update it lol.

 

hmm, who called the numbers here?

It's hard to tell how much my clutch was even holding in the low end. My midrange problems include a list of things: ported heads, journal bearing, 2" stock exhaust causing backpressure until my exhaust cutout opens at 11psi, clutch being completely fried (nothing left on the plates all all when i pulled it out), and the 2 bolt flange gasket on my up pipe had pretty significant signs of a leak when i pulled the turbo to change my clutch (about a 1" area of carbon build up all the way through the gasket from the leak).

i should have all that fixed now (except for the heads) which will make a good bit of difference in midrange power. It looks like i won't be getting the car out or doing anything at all car related until after my Part II national boards exam in march. I haven't even keyed into my garage in 4 weeks due to my huge patient load in the clinic. I don't even know if i still have a car

 

Hmmm makes you wonder if they blew to much money whining, dining and flying shop owners all over the country in exchange for promoting their products

 

Have that dyno plot in SAE or STD? Uncorrected is pretty much useless.

 

why is uncorrected useless? I'm curious because I saved mine in SAE and uncorrected. I see a lot of places that do FI use uncorrected. not sure why.

aren't all dyno's technically useless when using them to compare to another car/dyno?

 

Because its "uncorrected". Most places like to use it during winter especially because you can make a pull that is say 500whp STD or SAE or JIN or DIN or whatever you want to display it as. Then switch it over to Uncorrected. It will jump anywhere from 10-40ish horsepower....UP. Now when its hot outside the uncorrected numbers will be lower then STD or SAE.

Usually places use uncorrected when they are trying to make people feel better about the numbers when cold out. Otherwise you see STD numbers in the import world. Domestics like to use SAE since it is supposed to be closer to how the manufactuer corrects for power.


Yes comparing dyno to dyno is useless to an extent but if you know what your looking for its not. Dyno is useful for more then just peak numbers.

 

ah, mine was only about 4hp and a couple tq difference from uncorrected to STD so i didn't think there was a lot of difference. Makes sense it would change based on temp/humidity/density since that's probably what it is correcting for.

 

SAE:

 

Have with a boost curve too? Im just trying to compare both cars.

 

I'll see if I can get that in the morning from my tuner. He was on the dyno all day with another customer's car.

 

im the owner, my two cents...
i thouhgt the bigger turbo would get me about 75 more whp. i was hoping to get high 500's on 91 and around 700 on c16. what i ended up with is a kit that makes identicle power to the kit with the gt35 but performes worse.

my kit is laggier(is that a word?)than the gt35. i dont hit peak boost untill around 4200~4300 rpm.

if the issue is the down pipe causing back pressure then why would momentum even offer the turbo upgrade? i will assume with all the r&d they brag about that they should be aware of this problem.

i payed more $ for a bigger turbo that makes no more power and is kinda laggy. im a little pissed off about that, i feel like i got ripped off in that regaurd.

on the other hand, i still love it! lol. the power hits u like a freight train, it pulls hard and the power comes on extremly smooth.

i guess the real winner here is momentum. i didnt get what i payed for and im sure powerfab wouldnt go near another momentum kit even if they were still in buissness. btw i would like to thank bryan,jeromy and powerfab for thier outstanding customer service.

i would highly recomend this shop as they have proven to be very capable,knowlegable and very accomidating.

sure wish there were more gt37 kits out thier to compair against.

 

Post #8 and 9, there is your problem.

 

Largest AR you can get on that setup unfortunately.

 

Is this momentum dual exhaust the one that comes together in 1 single muffler? If so then that would probably be the backpressure. That's how my borla true dual is made and it held me back HUGE. I was at 540hp on e85 then once i went to an exhaust cutout i jumped up to mid 600hp range easily. There was only 2 weeks between dynos of borla exhaust verses stock exhaust with exhaust cutout.

It might not be the gt37 that isn't performing. could be just inflated numbers floating around the internet making you expect higher numbers as well

 

good to see someone else has the bigger turbo too. i made 536whp and 527 trq on 91 oct. thats only 15lbs less torque than you.im also at about 17.5psi. factor in im on 91 oct and that makes torque about even.

i have some questions if you dont mind.

what was your limmiting factor?

what kind of dyno did you use ( my z was tunned on a dynojet )

when do you see max boost ( i hit max boost at around 4200~4300 )

did u have any back-pressure issues? ( bp is my limmiting factor )

witch kit do you like better?

can u PLEASE post your dyno sheets!?

have you done a race gas tune, if so can you post those dyno sheets too?

do you feel like you should have just gotton the gt35 with the kit?

btw i have the momentum dual cat-back exhaust, momentum headers, cams, and intake spacer too.

 

no i have two resonators. thats amazing you gained 60hp by switching exhaust systems! maybe i should unbolt mine just to see what will happen.

i never said the turbo was under performing. back-pressure is the issue. congrats on the nice build btw.

 

what were your back pressure numbers?

 

dont know the acual #'s, i will ask bryan and get back to you.

 

they didnt use any sensors to figuer bp cause they would need to weld bungs into my pretty ceramic coated pipeing.

 

I made an adapter that can be used in the place of an oxygen sensor. It is easy to do, you just have to drill an O2 sensor plug, weld some 1/4" diameter tubing to it and, you are done. Just have to make sure the tubing is long enough (12" or so) to keep the heat away from the hose you attach to it. Then run that to the dyno MAP sensor.

Faster to make than to explain how to make it