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PLEASE HELP! g35 from Hell!

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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ITNKICN
Party in your stomach?
haha, i loved that one..

" its just us beers here!"

yeah .. looks like my brain was not invited to the party.

Last edited by bmccann101; Dec 23, 2011 at 09:01 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #22  
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When you rebuilt the engine, did you pressure test the heads? How many miles on the heads? Are they stock?
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 09:42 AM
  #23  
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If everything is good mechanically then its your tune. Sounds like some diagnostics need to be done on the motor and the tune looked over.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 10:42 AM
  #24  
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i posted this in your g35driver thread

no offense to your friends but "techs" at dealerships are just that, techs. They aren't real mechanics. All they know how to do is throw parts at the problem until it's finally fixed.

With the cams not functioning your car will still put down power. My cams don't work on the first pull but that still yielded over 600hp for me. Your car will run perfectly fine with the cams off and at 0*.

The coolant on the floor can be 2 issues: There is still air in the cooling system or the head gasket is blown. Air in the system is common. it gets trapped behind the thermostat causing the car to overheat and boil over. You can run the car until it's warm then feel the lower radiator hose. If it's still cold the thermostat isn't opening probably due to air behind the t stat. I recommend to use the spill free funnel. It's pretty much the only way to get air out properly on these cars.

Now, due to all the problems you are experiencing i'm leaning more towards a head gasket issue. If the cylinders are leaking compression into the cooling system that would explain the low power.

I didn't see all the stuff that was checked but the first things i would do on this car is a leak down test then a compression test. Leak down will tell if there is something wrong with the valves sealing (bent valve, problem with the seat, ring sealing issue do to improper machining). The compression test will tell you if the cams are functioning properly when the engine is turned over.

Without those being in spec then it's stupid to go any further.

I'm not sure why they think it is the ecu. if the car ran fine on the stock block, nothing was done to damage the ecu (water, etc) and the build block was put in the car there shouldn't be any issue with the ecu.

I know people say the utec burns out coils so after the leakdown and comp test checks out i would put 6 new coils in to see if that does anything.

also, with the o2 sensor. If that was bad it wouldn't run properly in closed loop (vac) but in open loop (WOT pull) the utec or osiris will be a set fuel injection that will not be altered by o2 sensors so bad o2 sensors won't affect open loop. So really that wouldn't be the issue with the low power.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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PM sent. Consider shipping the car up to us and we will get it straightened out.
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 03:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Hal@Dynosty
PM sent. Consider shipping the car up to us and we will get it straightened out.
+1

hand it over to a good shop. Hal will get it all fixed up.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #27  
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Wow thanks for all the comments. i dont know where to start to answer everyone questions about my build but ill try to be as descriptive as possible without writing a book

1) bought a turbonetics kit-stock motor blew in 1000k miles. engine was a oil consumer so had a bad feeling about it but was prepared for a build. I went to a terrible tuner that set me up with a terrible ECU, Emanage-without a map sensor! WOW-even though i knew better he assured me... bla bla bla... thats another thread.

2)rebuilt the motor-soup to nuts, completely machined and balanced, the right way with no short cuts. car made great power but it was short lived from the wonderful tuner i WAS going to...Long story short no big enough injectors and was running lean melted the top of a piston pluse a head gasket issue. yes i know dont go to him again, well i learned the hard way. however with this motor and a distorted piston + leaky head gasket, i made 400/400tq tuned with utec at japtrix-Roger didnt want to push it because of the bad head gasket that he discovered because radiator wouldnt burp + random Multiple misfire. so, coolant was getting into the combustion chamber and sweating the plugs causing the misfire. Keep in mind even with the crap motor the car still made power.

3)Disassembled the engine again to redo the headgaskets and completetly went all out to make sure this didnt happen again. Again brought it to a wonderful machine shop that knows VQ's. checked heads for vaccum, went with .20 everbore pistons 8.8-1 compression, everything balanced, clearances checked and so on. everything cam out great. The assembly was top notch, done by myself so i can supervise and make sure nothing was missed. i checked everything was in spec several times. NOTHING SHORT CUTTED! instal went smooth as well. at this time I am still using the utec with the larger 570 GTR injectors. car started right up sounded great, drove great. within 20 miles of driving an engine light came on throwing p2a03. looked it up saw it was an A/F 02 sensor issue and figured it may be because its my tune as wasnt worried. the next day i went to roger and he corrected it for drivability and off i went breaking in the motor for about 1000k miles.

3)after the 1000k mile break in, went back to japtrix and we proceeded to tune for power. 1st put it kept over boosting. hmmm. checked the vac line to the wastgate and it was on the wrong nipple. simple fix- changed it back and now were are hitting a regular 9lbs to start tuning. after some mild pulls. we notice that its leaning at the top and has an audible flat exhaust note that sounds somewhat like a misfire. but since it was tuning we kept trying to tune it out, however after an hour or so of trying we didnt get anywhere and the car would make power. 285-285tq at best. wow something clearly wrong. So we stop to not push anymore and i suspect bad plugs, so i go off and trouble shoot somethings and try and figure it out. Roger thought it could of been the rubber sleeve in the fuel pump assembly that wasnt sealing properly-but we checked it and it was ok.

4)here is what i checked. first off i looked into the p2a03 code and read a lot about it on here. but i found mostly that it wasnt the actual sensors that were the problem. so i ignored that variable for a while and checked all other possible issues. within a months time frame here is what i changed/tried/troubleshot/replaced. new fuel pump, walboro.255lph-no fix, new spark plugs, no fix, new coils, no fix, new maf-no fix, new injectors-no fix. at this point i was told on G-driver from some vendors that it sounds like its my utec and they are known for blowing coils and not having enough power for the coils. so i changed to the Osiris. and gave it another shot at HP logic. still no go. same flat exhaust note and made the same power 285is tq/whp. the last thing was to check the 02s. being that i had little faith in anything at that point. i wasnt expecting it to work. side note-occasionally i would also get p2a00 for bank 2.

5) bought new A/F sensors for both banks
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:48 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by djamps
only 280whp and boom sounds about right for the canned tune that comes with most turbo kits. Get a real professional shop who has done A BUNCH of F/I builds on the G/Z platform to tune it right after fixing all the install issues. Not some shop that does a bunch of mustangs (for example) and assumes they can tune a G/Z...I would recommend japtrix out of the list posted above.

And the comment above about Osiris, shaking my head at the mail order stuff. Osiris is 100% live tunable on a dyno. You don't need Haltech to get tuned correctly. You need a tuner who knows how to tune.
yes. my build was definitely done right. i am no newbie when it comes to modding and tuning-i did take it to Japtrix and have been going there for several years with other build ETC... its not the tune nor the tuner. its something with the car that i cant figure out.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #29  
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You said you switched out your UTEC and went with Osiris. I applaud the choice as I'm Osiris also. In capable hands and with proper supporting mods I think you'll do just fine with it. You have the cipher cable so are you saying that you're doing the tuning on your own? Are you profficient with it or are you just trying to learn it as you go? Are you making adjustments as you go?

This might give the guys with some knowledge on here the opportunity to guide you through some adjustments regarding the timing on your tune?

And when you're talking about this MAF... are you running stock MAF or have you subsequently upgraded? You said wtte "my latest build was at 12psi / 287." I'm not clear as to whether or not the latest build includes your Osiris tune and a stock MAF? Not sure if you could generate that much boost on the stock one so I'm not sure where that ends up... but regardless- which MAF did you end up with?

Are there special things to consider when switching out the UTEC to Osiris? Pointing to a "bad ECU" might suggest that perhaps a step was missed in the transition from one to the other? I understand UTEC is a stand-alone- but does it modify the stock ECU at all? Was your ECU flashed back to stock before the transition was made to Osiris?

I'm a bit of a nerd when it comes to stuff like computers so whenever I see someone saying that anything, of any description is cursed it generally points to a software issue (or an engineer).

You did come to the right place and I think that the work you have done so far in trying to help yourself and solve your problem will go far in getting the information you need from the guys with experience in here.

And to DavidV: I think you get the award for 2011's most ignorant and useless post. [/QUOTE]

ok let me clarify sorry. currently i am with the Osiris. because we just started the tune-we started on 9lbs just to see if everything was working properly. obsioulsy if we cant get the 9lbs lbs right there is no point in turning the boost up, thats why i am still on the stock maf. i really just want to fix the issue first knowing i can make power, then upgrade the MAF to run more boost.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:51 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by dikspiel
When you rebuilt the engine, did you pressure test the heads? How many miles on the heads? Are they stock?
yes complete engine machine was done including pressure testing heads
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 04:30 AM
  #31  
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Ship the car to Dynosty or Forged and get it fixed. It sounds like your shop is just tossing parts at it and hoping to get lucky.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 06:06 AM
  #32  
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Sounds like you have a whole bank gone dead (for whatever reason, be it electrical or mechanical) given the odd sounding exhaust and curious power numbers.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 09:04 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by djamps
Sounds like you have a whole bank gone dead (for whatever reason, be it electrical or mechanical) given the odd sounding exhaust and curious power numbers.
thats what it feels like but wouldnt i be throwing some crazy codes? I forgot to mention i also took apart my timing and redid it thinking it was timing, but that didnt fix it.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #34  
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Starting at 9psi? Stock maf can do about 6 I thought before crashing.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 10:01 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ITNKICN
Starting at 9psi? Stock maf can do about 6 I thought before crashing.
maybe however when i was running the utec, i had the same issue and that was running on a map sensor, so it wasnt even reading through the maf.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 10:17 AM
  #36  
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Sorry I'm so limited in where I can help. I sure hope someone hits this one on the head for you.

I see you replaced the MAF anyway at some point... so long as the MAF got fixed at some point during your efforts with the UTEC. If you fixed it at the same time as you switched to Osiris...

Anyway- judging by some of the feedback it looks like you're in deeper than a simple MAF issue...
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 12:39 PM
  #37  
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Update. At the tuner now. First run bank 2 ran lean as hell bank one ok. He's trying to make adjustment to bank 2 only by making it rich. Also he says ita not normal or a bank to be ao far off the other....i my made 275 whp, wow, feels something is wrong.,, said ecu related... Which I don't understand... Also, I think
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #38  
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Ok. He had to adjust bank 2, 30% increase in fuel. No bueno. Car only made 288 whp. I hate this car....I think I'm done. I'm selling everything... To many headaches...
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 06:08 PM
  #39  
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bank2 cams aligned wrong, engine build issue
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #40  
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just sell. the car is barely worth the price of the motor.
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