High guys. I was told from the guys over at g35driver to post here about my situation given the amount of FI guys on here. bellow is a link to my thread a gdriver so you can skim through and read and maybe lead me in the right direction. In a nut shell- motor blew twice. mM latest motor bult to the T-beautifully assembled-no short cuts. been throuh 2 EMS's utech and osiris- after the latest build car made 280 WHP on 12 LBS WOW. completely built short block weisco 8.8.1 h-beam eagle rods ACL race bearing... ya know the usual short block build. Running a Momentum performance single turbo kit. Thought it was the timing and redid it... didnt help. changed plugs... nothing....changed coils...nothing. changed the MAF nothing..ETC..
here are the codes that came up instantally after 50 miles of driving BTW car felt fine sounded fine. p2a03, p2a00 (occasionally), p1087. and laterly P0300 multiple misfire- which is strange that it is out of no-where... as if the problem is getting worse. been to a few techs. no one can figure it out. the latest is that the IVT selinoids are bad... BS and or the ECU, cam sprockets. i just replaced them before the last motor blew!!!!
here is the link please help.

http://g35driver.com/forums/engine-d...o-power-3.html

 

Welcome. This is the 2003-2009 Nissan 350Z forum.

 

One word: Tuning. I know you've already been thru 2 ECUs but honestly, with the amount of money you have spent on the engine, you should buy a proper ECU and have it tuned by a professional specifically for your vehicle. I tell this to everybody I ever hear about who runs an F/I setup on one of those prefabbed tunes, and then ends up blowing their engine. Those tunes are sketchy at best, and not something you want to do to an engine as built as yours seems to be. I've been running 9psi at 375 WHP for over a year on stock internals w/ no problem, because I shelled out a little extra and got my tune done right the first time. Sure the Osiris or Utech is cheaper at first, but I take it you're starting to figure out that in the long run it ends up being way more expensive?

My advice: Buy a good ECU like a Motec or Haltech (it's a bit pricey at first, but it's cheaper than rebuilding your motor twice) and then have it tuned by a professional. And I mean seat-time, in your car, dyno and street. Not trying to belittle the fine folks over at Osiris or any other mail-in tune shop, but there is no replacement for a real proper tune. They can only do so much w/ a list of mods and what they have to go off on their specs sheets and such. They can't account for temp, humidity, octane, and a whole bunch of other variables that will affect your car differently than what they get in what is basically an ideal lab environment. A professional tuning the car in person can see all of these things, and more, and then make adjustments as needed. That's how I can get 375whp on stock internals and very conservative tune running only 9psi. My tuner kept trying to get me to let him push the car into the 400s!(just for perspective). My car runs as good as it did the day I bought it, no stall problems, no rough idle... runs a little rich, but that's just cuz it's a conservative tune designed to prevent knock and detonation.

 

why in gods name would u run 8.8:1 compression on a built fi engine? thats stock na compression.. good lord.

( aint this great^^^? somehow in Brians mind last night 8.8:1 compression was LOWER compression that 11:1.. so much fail.. my apologies again for soiling the thread like that.. i get to live in my shame from all the quotes of it posted in the thread.. haha. Oh man. )

 

since when is that stock compression?


and i guess dave still hasent figured out what motor is in a g35, dont mind him. he is just here for his post count...

and i agree with the above post with your tunning

 

edit;;; removed my redionkulous and completely backwards backwards comment..

friends dont let friends drink and look at numbers or do math ..

 

Who did the install, and who is doing the tuning? Just for reference on a stock HR block at 8.5psi I did 454whp on a dyno dynamics.

I read your thread on the G forum and you've been dealing with this for a couple months now it seems. Here's a couple of shops in your area you could check out and see what they think.

http://horsepowerlogic.com/
S&R Performance
Japtrix

 

Daniel,

We've gotta talk. You've been doing it the wrong way for too
long. Who has helped you? They've clearly ****ed up. You need
to find someone with more knowledge than ********. Pm me for
the only contact you'll need to get you on the path.

For god's sake - stop whatever you've been doing up to this point.

Sincerely,

Lgear080

 

Whatever you smoking give me some
Lay off the Jack Daniels when giving someone advice


Stock compression is 10.3:1
8.8:1 or even 9.0:1 is perfectly normal for FI



As far as the op listen to what everyone is saying about the tune

 

I was shaking my head reading the crap he was posting.

 

bmccann101 The Jack is not your friend right now. lol




OP, did you change FI kits?

What else has been changed on your G?

Did you replace with re-manufactured/used parts?

What parts/setup did you have during your last tune?

 

I would check compression first, give is more details on the build. What injectors you using? Where you located also , so someone can point you in a direction of a shop that knows what they are doing.

I build a turbo kit with am eBay turbo and put down 415whp on DD.

What was the reason your previous motor blew?

 

First think I would check is motor health (i.e. leakdown...i know a new motor but still).

2nd is boost leaks....then crack into the tune.

Tom

 

only 280whp and boom sounds about right for the canned tune that comes with most turbo kits. Get a real professional shop who has done A BUNCH of F/I builds on the G/Z platform to tune it right after fixing all the install issues. Not some shop that does a bunch of mustangs (for example) and assumes they can tune a G/Z...I would recommend japtrix out of the list posted above.

And the comment above about Osiris, shaking my head at the mail order stuff. Osiris is 100% live tunable on a dyno. You don't need Haltech to get tuned correctly. You need a tuner who knows how to tune.

 

he is still learning alberto not everyone can be knowledgeable lol

as far as op is concerned im guessing you used the same tuner both times? i dont see how anyone could make so little power on 12 lbs would have to be running like no timing(which you said you adjusted so im guessing not) or like a 18ish afr while in high load which im amazed you even lasted 50 miles =/

 

Exactly the tuner doesn't know tuning from his own a@@ hole.

 

OP:

Read your thread over on driver awhile ago but hadn't been following it more recently. I am a freshie, so I probably can't weigh in the way these guys can but I do want to point out that you're so emotionally invested in this car I think you're filling in some of the blanks and leaving us in the dark about a couple of things.

You said you switched out your UTEC and went with Osiris. I applaud the choice as I'm Osiris also. In capable hands and with proper supporting mods I think you'll do just fine with it. You have the cipher cable so are you saying that you're doing the tuning on your own? Are you profficient with it or are you just trying to learn it as you go? Are you making adjustments as you go?

This might give the guys with some knowledge on here the opportunity to guide you through some adjustments regarding the timing on your tune?

It is strange to me as a plebe that a diagnostic computer would report your timing as being SO FAR OFF and that the hardware would be fine? Sorry for the question but on those diagnostic computers are they reading the timing reported by the ECU (or a bad tune?) or is it reading something more mechanical?

And when you're talking about this MAF... are you running stock MAF or have you subsequently upgraded? You said wtte "my latest build was at 12psi / 287." I'm not clear as to whether or not the latest build includes your Osiris tune and a stock MAF? Not sure if you could generate that much boost on the stock one so I'm not sure where that ends up... but regardless- which MAF did you end up with?

Are there special things to consider when switching out the UTEC to Osiris? Pointing to a "bad ECU" might suggest that perhaps a step was missed in the transition from one to the other? I understand UTEC is a stand-alone- but does it modify the stock ECU at all? Was your ECU flashed back to stock before the transition was made to Osiris?

I'm a bit of a nerd when it comes to stuff like computers so whenever I see someone saying that anything, of any description is cursed it generally points to a software issue (or an engineer).

You did come to the right place and I think that the work you have done so far in trying to help yourself and solve your problem will go far in getting the information you need from the guys with experience in here.

And to DavidV: I think you get the award for 2011's most ignorant and useless post.

 

haha.. i think i may have to actually print this thread out and frame it.
I remember seeing some of the replies last night and thinking.. " WTF are you talking about.. my posts were totally low key..whatever.."...



and of course this morning.. bahaha. Dear lord.. sorry fellas.
It somehow made 100% perfect sense to me yesterday.. pretty scary. Truly this level of fail I have never reached prior haha.. so much fail I have to either jump off a bridge today in shame or just laugh and shake my head. ha. apparently 2 drinks on an empty stomch for a Xmas party yesterday was enough to turn me into a test monkey.
I will surely go ahead and edit out my ruh-tard posting moments so as not to infect future searchers in an otherwise already crazy FI section.

BUT.... Id like my man card back tho please.

 

Party in your stomach?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4QgxMqQzYk

 

Just read the g35driver thread.

First do a leak down on the engine and also check for boost leaks like thom mentioned. It kinda sounds like HG problem. If you are lean on one bank and rich on the other, plus you get coolant overflow.

Another thing is cam sensors. I had one of my sensors fail while I was driving. I was tuned with utec. I could not go past 5k rpm. Car felt week under boost. And it just got worse the more I drove. Had misdirected codes also. I would also send out the injectors to get inspected. Check resistance on all injectors.