ok. i did a leak down and compression and everything is ok. here is what i just posted at g35driver:

2/3
Ok I put new phase sensors in and it didn't do a thing. Still p0300 with in 3 miles. Gonna check the cams but I'm really not feeling that those are the issue.

2/8
roger said that the haltec wont start because it reads the cam phase and crank.. is that true, becuase that theory is really throwing me off my diagnosis. what would that even mean.. that my cam phase sensors are bad or my crank sensor... well i replaced both of those and it did the same. maybe a bad ECU? Bad wiring harness???? im hearing that we have very bad electrical problems from 05-07. ive exhausted every idea and am scratching my head,

i remember the first time i started the car after the second build it ran perfect for several miles however i had the vaccuum line for the waste gate on the front nipple and i kept geting severe boost spikes up to about 26 psi. obviously i didnt get on it hard but it still spiked. i didnt switch the wasgate vaccuum until i went for my tune. anyway... at the timeof first driving the car i had tried aftermarket headers. the drivers side wouldnt fit so i removed it and left the passenger side on.so i had only one factory header on the turbo side. now back to it running well. the first 50 miles were strong and good the car sounded great, then all of a sudden the engine light was on and thats when i threw my first code p2a03 and the car was running terrible.. starting stumbling and according to the AFR gauge, was extremely rich. i thought nothing of it and that it was simply the tune. i went to roger to have it baselined for driveablilty but he thought it was stranged that it changed from the provious time. anyway, after my 1000 miles break in, i went to tune and thats when i realized i had a problem.... now. would having 2 different headers and over boosting cause something to happen?????? fyi, i removed the after market header and have both stock ones on. i did this 3 months ago. i continued to have the p2a03 code... i also replaced both 02 and still came back, after some time, those codes went away perminently and replaced with random multiple misfire... this is my current code and doesnt go away.... this is the only code i have currently.

What in the hell could it be, honestly???? does it sound electrical ie. harness-ecu? or mechanical heads??? i feal like it could be either or. but most thinks its electric related. please HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

had the same error.. P0300.. 1 bank off on A/F

can be the timing.. quick check with this template.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...c_template.pdf

if thats ok change the cam timing valve on that bank..

I hope this helps..

 

did you do a compression/leakdown to make sure you didnt destroy a piston.

 

'Cause, yanno, the G and the Z have absolutely no parts in common, totally different engines, ECU's, etc...

You, sir, are a complete and utter ****tard.



As for the OP, not sure what the problem is, but I sympathize. Boosted VQ35s are not easy to deal with. Glad to see you went with the Haltech; it has done me well on my JWT boosted G on track and off for 4+ years now. I'll subscribe to this, see if I have any advice to offer.

 

If I had this much trouble with the VQ, I would have already swapped in a LS2/3/7

 

of course yes. that was part of my origional post.

i took it to danny today and he was super helpful in trying to diag the situation. he did some data logs with cipher and the results are deffinelty not in spec. we were both questioning the validity of the numbers in that they didnt really point to anything accept "something is wrong" which we oviously know...so, the timing read that it was off off, the ARF on bank 2 are way off, and there is an over correction in fuel big time. somewhat of what the tuner told me. he realized that bank 2 was always way lean so he had to correct and add 30% more fuel... yea not a good sign. that being said, he really feels like there is an electrical problem with the car. whether it be the ECU or engine wiring harness. the numbers are just way off from what is considered normal. it just doesnt make sense that the car would even be running. 64 degreees off timing??? yea i dont think so. cam phase sensors were also fritzy. intake on bank 1 was always flucutating at idle from .05-1.5 while bank 2 was 0.0

when doing a couple pulls and data loggin he did notice the funky sounding exhaust and obvious lack of power. strange. he did mention that heads being machined twice may have caused the timing to jump a tooth because the distance between the cams and block would change. however highly unlikely because the machine shop onl cleaned and checked the surfaces, not deck them.

 

This sounds awfully familiar to the issue I'm having... Please keep us posted, I'm towing my car down to ProEFI next week, I'll let you know what I find out! Good Luck!

Btw, are u getting any misfire codes when/if you have an obvious misfire?

 

Try to change the cam valve on that side. I had the same thing you describe.

 

The cam valve? Like the VVT solenoid?

 

Yes. I thought it was electrical and swapped it after a month. That was the trouble maker.

 

Thanks very much. What's your car doing? Mine is throwing a p0300, but originally, meaning right after I was done building and drove it, it had a p2a03 only. The p0a03 went away and then I threw p0a03 which I currently have.

 

Are you talking about the solenoid on top of the cam? If so, wouldn't that throw a code??? What was your car doing?

 

The code did not rise. That is wy I was measuring the wires to the ecu. Sensors change. Cost me a 30 days. I'f learned a lot. How the VQ works. So I think the solenoid is giving the problem here.

 

was your car not performing well? did it have a strange exhaust note or any codes thown at all?

 

no it was running and making power... but rough idle. just a P0300........ so because i rebuild the VQ myself and did a wiretuk at the same time.. i did not know where the problem was... and just a P0300 (Random misfirering) and 1 bank 10.3 A/F and 1 Bank 13.8 A/F so that was not helping out.stared with..

- Cam sensor
- cranck sensor
- mesurig the wires front and back
- Fuel pressure on each Bank (APS has two pumps one for each Bank)
- Injectors flow tested.
- New Ecu

Then i knowtest that when i pulled a connector of the 2 4 or 6 coil it did not do anything.
but it was stil making power...
the only option was the timing chian.. just before i was getting ready to start on pulling the motor.. i spayed oll the connectors of the ECU and sensors.. and it run perfect... so i was a verry happy Man...its electrical and not the timing chain...
the problem was in a connector... next day..... same problem as before...
new ecu and wire loom... same error.... them a new code came.. the cam selenoid not functioning... change the thing.. no problems sinds...

Learned.. rough idle 1 bank A/F high and a P0300 error 80% Cam selenoid..

 

very intersting! the only difference is that my car isnt making power at all. only 285whp. i am assuming it is something electrical as well. i am going to try and disconnect bank 2 coils and see if it has a reaction. if not then, ill know for certain its electric. when you say you sprayed oil.. what kind of oil and where exactly did you spray it? Thanks a million for your help, as you can imagine this is extremely frustrating.

 

I Don't know About power because I had a p0300 error and did nog go further until it was solved. But do you had a cam solenoid? Try that it is easy to do that.

 

i dont have an extra bank 1 selenoid. the p0300 was a code that came after about 2 months of trying to figure out the problem of no power. the only other codes i had where p2a00 and occassionally p2a03. that is gone and im left with p0300. ive changed from utech to osiris and now im thinking about changine my engine harness. i dont know what else to do, but i really just want to find the problem. its unbelievable how the problem cannot be found by professional shops. it makes my assumption feel even more insignificant. i could be electrical or mechanical. but wouldnt it be way worse if it was a mechanical problem? i had someone sugguest it can be vlave lash? but why would that change? leak down and compression all ok! thats the weird part!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I tried swapping out both cam solenoids and it did no good…

 

And when you disconnect a coil does it change in rpm?