Ahh... the intertubez. Always good for entertainment whilst I try to look busy at work, waiting until leaving time.

Anyways, lots of good points thrown around, some on topic some off. To OP, 2 words of advice. 1 - do your research, 2 - be realistic.

Research is more than just asking a forum and buying what they say. And as for being realistic, define to yourself what exactly you want, what you can afford, and find a compromise.

On topic, and speaking only from my own experience:

Which is better for DD? it depends on your personal driving style. Everybody has different styles, and likes different things. Sure Superchargers make boost always, and that goes w/ the whole not everybody tops out their car argument, but there's another argument to be made here. I love my ST because it doesn't make boost during normal driving conditions, but when I step on it it flies like a bat out of hell, even at lower RPMs (the guy who did my tune is freaking magic man, Idunno how he did it). So when I drive normal street driving, no boost, the car behaves like an NA as far as predictability, and w/ the tune, I get even better gas mileage than I did stock. when I'm on a track and driving it hard, I hit full boost (9psi) by 3.5-4K. And the power doesn't surge too much (all turbos surge, it's just an inevitability), so it's predictable enough to where I can always keep traction with the careful application of my right foot. Gas mileage sucks though, 7-9MPG when I step on it lol.

As for affordability. If your budget is 5k, ur pushing it. But you also don't need to drop 11k on a Greddy in order to make decent and reliable power. I know this is a special case, and it doesn't hold true for most boosted Z owners (at least the ones I've had thee privilege of meeting in person), but I had a fairly decent wealth of knowledge, patience to do my research, and a decent amount of connections where I lived, to where I was able to FI my Z on stock internals with a VERY conservative and reliable tune, 375WHP (abput 415-445BHP, depending on drivetrain loss, haven't really sat down and calculated it yet) and no problems to date, all for about 6-7k. The turbo was added about 2 years ago, and those who know me can attest to the fact I know how to drive my car hard, and I still haven't had any major issues. Just an odd exhaust leak here or an oil leak there, both of which speak more to the condition of HI's roads than it does to my build.

I'm ranting again, but I guess my point is that you have to be realistic, do your research, let your own personal situation play out. I don't know you so I don't know how much you know about cars, FI, tunes, etc.

Good luck w/ your build though.

 

lol @ 4SHIZZL... posts #69 through #75 are complete garbage posts, 'Thread filler'..

I think that applies to you more then anyone else. Get over yourself. No one cares.

 

WTF Corey?

The first few parts of your post are YOUR OPINION. If you cant handle gobs of midrange TQ and need power closer to redline where you've already been raped by a similar power TT car, then thats your problem.

Midrange thrust = annoying?? Are you fawking crazy?

Isnt belt slip annoying as $hit when you cant utilize all your rev range?

You preach this BS to noobs and they might think a S/C is in fact better, it is not what you make it seem.

Regarding the $10K limit you keep throwing around. I and others who KNOW YOU AND YOUR CAR laugh at that because you obviously have left some parts out. DO you have $30K into your setup? No, but the parts and labor you do have into easily exceed that. Exaggerate much?

Who that has any decent turbo kit have you shut up with your car? What have you run at the track? You cant race some no skill, no power having TT car/driver and claim to be better, that's weaksauce.

500whp turbo Z > 600whp S/C G anyday. Summer will prove it

OP-Im gonna try to be really nice and direct with you, we are men here so why sugar coat it?

If you dont/cant spend more than $6,000 on a proper setup, stay NA, you are too poor at the moment for this.

Going FI on your DD is NEVER a good idea. Murphy's Law, it $hits on ever FI owner at the worst possible time.

 

listen up OP, this is real talk right here from a guy who has the chops to give the advice...... and rarely does.

I FId my daily driver.. its not even BUILT yet and its already killing me.
7 months down.. sound like fun? It will be..when i buy another car to drive and leave this thing in my garage like a responsible man.

No reasonable adult drives a full circuit Nascar Lumina to work like out of frikn Days of Thunder...


"Like, its cool to have one and all.. and boy it looks fast alright....but.. uh... wtf are you doing driving it to work Ted?"

 

Post count means everything. Everyone's post counts belongs to me...

 

amen, getting tired of reading the same braggart BS all day long. I've had/have both, high power SC and high power turbo and both are easy to DD.

 

I would love to join thuglicious arguments like this...

 

Eaton M90 twin screw supercharger:



The centrifugal superchargers are about the same. So, when the S/C spins at 12,000rpm it is taking 50hp from your engine. This is why you have belt issues (and always will). A 6 rib serpentine belt will never be able to transfer 50hp from the crank to the blower.

 

"every good argument is eventually ended when some fool comes in who actually knows what he is talking about."

Kind of surprised how this template bs thread turned into such a viral d1ck measuring contest.

 

Itgotwai2siriusnhur.

 

It sure did.

So what's better, turbo or supercharger? Also, what's the best intake for the Z? I plan on getting a 350Z in a few weeks.





















JUST KIDDING!

 

Simple solution... BOOST IT!!! (tax return money? lol)

 

Yeah, usually these are fun...

And on that note when I'm getting enough tax money back to pay for FI... I'm going to get my fanancial guy laid.

 

1. I am glad the post I made was helpful to you.

2. To the OP, my honest opinion is you are young & FI is expensive & risky. I strongly suggest you opt for dependability considering doing FI may blow your motor & if you are putting out a lot of hp, other mods will likely be needed. The 6-10K you would put into it (a lot more if forged internals) is only part of the cost. Some guys blow up one of more motors. I personally think you should finish your education, live with stock or NA hp & once you get a career, get settled, buy a home etc, then consider a new car by then. My bet is by that time you will find a car with 400+ hp etc in stock form you will want anyways.

A lot of things can happen with guys in school with cars, not many of them are wise/good.

My last point is I have been around long enough to know you will most likely blow off my advise as well as others which leads to "wisdom is gain through experience & experience is the process of making a lot of mistakes". Live & learn, just don't kill or hurt yourself or others in the process.....

 

how do get more taxes back than your income? are you a wizard? if not, i dont think accountants like hookers. Jk jk.

 

LOL at this thread

 

I have HAD it with your sarcasm- you WILL face the arcane brilliance of my level 36 mage (once he's done doing my taxes and worked up an appetite for a Warlock hooker).

 

So anywho, any of you guys know any good websites for std awareness?

 

be deployed, on my w-2's from the army it only shows $4200(what i made before deploying) ill prob get 6-7k back from taxs because of EIC and ohio child credit, plus i think i get 600 back from ohio just for being a deployed soldier O.o

and ruthless webmd has the cure for super AIDS now, if you take it it cures all std's so no need for awareness.

 

Hypocrite