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More reliable power on HKS Supercharger?

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 09:03 AM
  #21  
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Post a build sheet and pics... I want to see what you have in your car before I dismantle your flawed logic part by part.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:31 AM
  #22  
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Hang on, you have it supercharged but you don't have it dyno tuned? You're asking for problems.

I run the exact kit GTM gave me with the F-con tune that they found worked best for it. Why would I need a different tune if the tune matches the parts I have? Now if I go change stuff I certainly will need a different tune. I don't trust anyone around here enough to try to do better than GTM with a new custom tune, even if GTM only gave me a conservative standard tune for this kit.
This is not a GTM tune, it is their base map tune that they use so the car can be driven to get a tune. Like you said, every car is a bit different and the tune is built to match the car.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #23  
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Must not be many sports cars in Idaho
very true. Not like I go to a drag strip or anything.

Post a build sheet and pics... I want to see what you have in your car before I dismantle your flawed logic part by part.
Uh I could get pics if you want, but it is really simple. I have the just exact kit in that link (GTM Stage 2 HKS supercharger kit), and several non-power things like braces and such, all of which I list on my profile. I had a complete stock engine. I literally just called up GTM and they sent me this, and I had a guy install it. End of story. What logic are we upset about?

This is not a GTM tune, it is their base map tune that they use so the car can be driven to get a tune.
I don't know what is different between a 'conservative standard tune' and a 'base map tune' is, but Sam at GTM said to expect to get the same advertised results as the dyno showed with the kit if we just installed it as-is, as-shipped, WITHOUT A CUSTOM TUNE. I specifically asked that.

A custom tune is of course better, and one of the things we are looking at for more power.

Last edited by PracticeDrifter; Mar 15, 2012 at 02:30 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 02:28 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by PracticeDrifter
This is not a GTM tune, it is their base map tune that they use so the car can be driven to get a tune.

I don't know what is different between a 'conservative standard tune' and a 'base map tune' is, .
OP, this is jsut how it goes, youre new, and are unaware, but yeah.. this is the issue right here man.

Go get a tune right now w NO extra parts.. you'll be vastly surprised with what you have been missing.. that base map is meant to safelty in the most retardedlt safe manner get a car running and not detonating so u can drive to a shop that will immediatley tune the car legitly.
its not generic map.. its a base map... kind of differnt deal here.. youre driving on way retarded timing and rich injector cycles im sure. Not at ALL what you should have after a tune.


its a total limp mode deal.. go tune man.. seriously.. dont buy anything yet. I dont mess w other grown adult mens time or money. trust me on this one.. and many of the others posting here are legit as hell too man.

Last edited by bmccann101; Mar 15, 2012 at 02:31 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 04:23 PM
  #25  
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Thanks again for the advice. I agree that custom tunes are best. I do intend to get the car tuned as soon as possible.

that base map is meant to safelty in the most retardedlt safe manner get a car running and not detonating so u can drive to a shop that will immediatley tune the car legitly. its not generic map.. its a base map... kind of differnt deal here..
I understand what you are saying, but that is exactly the opposite of what Sam at GTM told me specifically and repeatedly. He said that it was not a 'bare minimum' anything, but that it was a generic map for the kit. He said that placed on any stock Z with the DE engine the kit would make the power they promised within reasonable tolerances. I did what he said, the car sounds and works great, and is clearly making at least close to what the power should be. (but not as much as I want now, )

Conversation went like this -
Me : "Do I need to get a tune after this is installed to get the power increase you advertise?"
Sam : "No, it will do that with just bolt-in installation"
Me : "Would I get more power if I got it tuned anyway?"
Sam : "Our tune is for 91 octane, so unless you change that or parts there is no need."

Either he directly lied to me in email and on the phone and my car made tons more power and worked great anyway, or what you say is wrong. So far I have no reason not to side with Sam at GTM, who knows his own kit like the back of his hand. Is your legit greater than his legit?

Soon, when I do get it custom tuned by the GTM guys themselves, I will know for sure how far from perfect this tune is.

Last edited by PracticeDrifter; Mar 15, 2012 at 04:31 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 04:25 PM
  #26  
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Huh..that's weird..its generally always a base map
.oh well..sounds like ul get it squared away..
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 04:37 PM
  #27  
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I know it is weird. That is why asked him about it and made double sure.

I trust that you guys know what you are talking about and I will follow your advice.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #28  
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Is it the FCON is or FCON vpro?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 05:09 PM
  #29  
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Not the Vpro. That comes with a higher stage. Mine is the F-con...SZ? It is purple.

Last edited by PracticeDrifter; Mar 15, 2012 at 05:26 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 07:19 PM
  #30  
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Hey use the damn "quote" button on the lower right of the screen rather than italicize what we said.

On a lighter note your going to be disappointed when you put the Z on the dyno to get it tuned and see what you get... The 400+ have been achieved by 2 guys on here(7404's) and they both had Stage 5 blowers. There's something lost in translation between you and Sam because each individual car is different and so are the kits... one car makes more than others so you need to get the car tuned. My car is on the rich side and the AFR is about 11.53 on both banks which is great... If you decide to run a smaller pulley you're going to make about 7-8psi and not really run the risk of over-spinning the blower. If you decide to get a AIT or Fluidampr pulley which is slightly larger than the OEM crank pulley, you might be able to run a 85mm pulley(it will be the equivalent of a 87mm IIRC).
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