binder

iTrader: (8)

Haltech itself won't really fix the issue but it's a far superior tuning tool and in the hands of a knowledgeable tuner it will make the issue go away.

Seems that only the top level osiris tuners actually know how to tune it properly and all the rest can just do WOT pulls on a dyno with osiris and get it somewhat running with a crappy vac/cruise map.

Eno

iTrader: (1)

Update?

=Cerberus=

iTrader: (1)

I am having a similar issue I guess you can call it. It hasn't really hampered my driving time and I do not think it is specific to the kit itself, but does bug me. I have narrowed it down to a few things, based on this thread and a few others. I am thinking most likely a tip in tuning issue, since I have one of the newer stage 0 return fuel kits from CJM, and it appears the stock damper is there.

So when it happens, and it is kinda intermittent, it will go lean at 3k rpms to about 32-3400 depending on how fast I look at it while driving. Then it will power through and afr reads normal. When this happens it is right at the transition from vacuum to boost when I am mildly accelerating. The gauges usually read 0 and 0. Once it starts making boost, everything is normal, if I am on it hard it never happens. The other thing that happens a lot, is a bad jerking around 2500 when I am cruising a long, but I do not think that is related and I just have to live with it.

I need to get some data logs, and get down to my friends shop to have him look at it again. I just wanted to put in my 2 cents.

gixx76

I have a similar issue and I believe that ReStyin and I got tuned at the same shop in Montreal.

I have a single boosted performance mid mount, and running Osiris. My hesitation is at 2--2100RPM always. sometimes the hesitation is violent and sometimes it is less violent but it is always there.

If I back off the throttle when leaving a light at around 2k it is very slight hesitation( A/F gauge still spikes to 17 or ---, if I leave a light like a normal human being in a normal car then it is a grand hesitation at 2k , the A/F gauge spikes to --- and then falls back to normal after 2100Rpm.

After a friday night cruze nite, I now have a 0306 CEL code(misfiring cylinder 6) and am not sure if it related to the tune or if this is something else. the car now idles a little lopey, to the point where I can actually feel the car "shake" not like a muscle car with massive cams or anything, but definitely not how it was idling before the CEL.

The car pulls like a freight train though, despite these 2 issues, really I would just be more comfortable knowing the car was tuned "PROPERLY" and this is apparently done in the MAF tables, something that was not done by the tuner that tuned the car, he just threw more fuel at 2k to try and fix it.

Long and short is that the Guy that tuned is saying that it is because I do not have a RFS. From what I have read, this is just not true, even though an RFS is a great thing to go with, it is not going to solve the hesitation, may make it better, but not make it disappear.

I don't know anything about tuning whatsoever so have to rely on "expert advice" the only expert with Osiris I know of is in PA. Just waiting on confirmation that in fact he will be able to tune this problem out before i drive the 14hrs return..lol.

wannabuy350z

iTrader: (27)

sometimes tuners will turn off any related cam codes
p011
p021

your problem can be as simple as your cam sensor is not reading and is giving you issues down in your lower rpms.

because at idle you have zero cam timing and as you approach upper rpms it usually is from nothing to around 25-30 degrees.

check it out it may help

djamps

iTrader: (1)

The issue is 100% in the tune... at least the hesitation part. The part about needing an RFS to solve hesitation is complete hogwash. I'm growing tired of hearing about this so called 'tuner'.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Minor possibility that it is a cam sensor going bad. When mine was going bad it had nothing to do with a hesitation. Mine was a full blown misfire. When the cam sensor doesn't read the car will not fire. Hence the reason cars won't start with a bad cam sensor. So if it gets a bad signal it will cause a full misfire. If this is a full misfire then the timing will show a drop to zero at that point in a log. If not timing disruption to zero from misfire then it's just a hesitation from a lean episode.

gixx76

Glad to hear another confirmation of sorts that it is the tune.) The car has not had any CEL's and this 0306 just popped up after a month of driving it boosted, if it was a cam sensor I will assume the car would not pull as hard or there would be some power loss...no power loss here, just a slight little wiggle wiggle at idle and that nasty hiccup at 2k....... PA. Here I come:P... If Vince @ R/T can't work it out , then I suppose I will just have to pack it in and call it a loss.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

^^ cam sensor codes will result in loss of power, but the cam failing is unrelated to the tune most likely. Either way, Vince will set you straight.

ReStylin

iTrader: (1)

BUMP!

Sooo. Threw a few more things at the car to get it to run right.

ID 1000 Injectors
Haltech Plat Pro
Momentum headers
Stage 5 drive axles
AEM water meth
Walbro 485
Kinetix Velocity SS intake
Dynosty Stage 2 FRS with Cosworth Fuel Rails
Block bored 20 over
Custom Dual keyed Crank
Pauter Rods
Wiseco Pistons,
Arp L19 head
JWT S2 Cams
ACL race bearings
Cometic Gasket
APS oversized Oil pan
Ross Tuffbound Metal jacket engine Dampner with Custom dual keyway for crankshaft
Solid motor mounts

Its all getting installed right now.

What kind of power are ya thinking I can make? (Im getting tuned early next week, so well see whos closest to the right number)

Now I bought this kit, never expecting to go more then 400hp..
Now with all the threads I see I am not gonna be much more then ..??... Which is much less then the 600-700 that I want.

So is there a way I can reword the exhaust piping? I mean the problems seem to be airflow. The uppipe is 2.25 and the dp is 3"?
What if I get a custom uppipe that is 3" but maybe oval... instead of round, so it can have a bit more room while being 2.25" wide from side to side.

Can I get a turbo that is T4 that can mount in the V bands position? Go with a larger turbo, or even a GTX which has more flow? I understand that I should sell the kit and buy something else. However thats another $2000 in labor, then I have to worry about selling the kit blah blah blah. Then another $4000 in difference for the turbo kit, so at $6000, id rather spend $2000 on some custom fab then go from there.

G3po

iTrader: (8)

I get roughly 510 square on my MTM , built block (9:1) on 91 , very mild stage1 turbo cams and about 12psi. There's more to be made , maybe another 20 or so on 91. With slightly hotter cams you may get more. But I went with a low overlap cam set to improve spool of the GT35. I'm at full boost by ~3250 when the pipes are hot. On this setup , the spool changes drastically from cold to when the pipes are nice and hot, even with everything ceramic coated.

I don't think you'd have a bats chance in hell fitting a T4 housing in there.
The space ( between the AC comp and frame) for the u-pipe is already really really tight as it is.

Brolan04z

iTrader: (1)

Well I hope all those parts and pretty much new motor will fix your problem. And it depends on how much boost you run to determine the hp guessing.

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Low valve overlap means a higher dynamic compression ratio which means, you're more prone to detonation, so don't think it's all positives

Why is your crank double keyed? I've never heard of any issues with single keyed cranks, let alone any issues on vq35's...

G3po

iTrader: (8)

Sure with less overlap , dynamic CR is a bit higher, but my static CR is also been lower @ 9:1. With 91 octane @ 12psi and Cali summer temps , never had any detonation issues . My target was a fatter mid band torque curve, and that has been my result.

Not clear what the double keyed question is about???