Boosted Performance single turbo fabrication
#201
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
that is a beautiful car................ i would love to have a first gen although i dont think i could do more then a very mild resto mod and just use it as a cruiser. i cant cut up history, its not like the Z where i dont give a **** about anything then going faster.
i run an unsleeved block as well, .0035 clearances on the mains and rods,cosworth oil control baffle, arp mains and l19 head studs with dynosty head gasket. i run about .0025 top gap and .0027 bottom gap for rings. i took my knowledge from domestics and applied it to my Z, i initially had kelford stage 1 na intake and stage 2 FI exhaust cams on order for the car but z1 auto in new york ****ed me and i had to get my money back through the back. needed the car togeather and after putting it togeather the performance i hit made me perfectly happy. frankly the stock heads flow enough for 500 hp NA, the engine just dosnt have enough displacement to do so.
for the rear im retaining the IRS however the diff mount is changing, the rear cover will have bolt on ears similar to how the viper diff mounts in the rear but bolted on vs cast in with heim joints at the top bolting to the cage and the front in place of the ear mounting points i will have brackets bolted in for a four link setup. have the adjustable 4 link for weight transfer for the strip but still retain all the benefits of the IRS. PLUS solve the whole issue of "solid vs brace vs holy **** we fixed it but now cracked the aluminum subframe." got the idea looking at the old vettes and was like "why not do it to the z?, it definitely works"
my car has all the bs ripped out, ive rewired the car for only the essentials. i saved like 100 lbs just ditching all the ac crap. this is the dash to give a general idea although i need to quit messing with the wiring and wrap it already and i ran a 4 inch exhaust out the rocker panel.
so far i ran against a z06 vette from a dig that actually had a 11 second flat time slip(he shipped his car to the big island which has a 1/4 mile strip) and i had 3 car lengths on him when he let up after 1/8th mile and that was on 20 psi. like i said before no one will run me when i turn it up to 32.
comparing my car to hal's we make similar power on high boost but i have a better power band(running a smaller turbo so should be a given) and lighter weight by alot. he has done 9.3 in the quarter so i think i should be able to break into the 8's. if not switching to lexan windows and the redoing the rear suspension will get me there.
i run an unsleeved block as well, .0035 clearances on the mains and rods,cosworth oil control baffle, arp mains and l19 head studs with dynosty head gasket. i run about .0025 top gap and .0027 bottom gap for rings. i took my knowledge from domestics and applied it to my Z, i initially had kelford stage 1 na intake and stage 2 FI exhaust cams on order for the car but z1 auto in new york ****ed me and i had to get my money back through the back. needed the car togeather and after putting it togeather the performance i hit made me perfectly happy. frankly the stock heads flow enough for 500 hp NA, the engine just dosnt have enough displacement to do so.
for the rear im retaining the IRS however the diff mount is changing, the rear cover will have bolt on ears similar to how the viper diff mounts in the rear but bolted on vs cast in with heim joints at the top bolting to the cage and the front in place of the ear mounting points i will have brackets bolted in for a four link setup. have the adjustable 4 link for weight transfer for the strip but still retain all the benefits of the IRS. PLUS solve the whole issue of "solid vs brace vs holy **** we fixed it but now cracked the aluminum subframe." got the idea looking at the old vettes and was like "why not do it to the z?, it definitely works"
my car has all the bs ripped out, ive rewired the car for only the essentials. i saved like 100 lbs just ditching all the ac crap. this is the dash to give a general idea although i need to quit messing with the wiring and wrap it already and i ran a 4 inch exhaust out the rocker panel.
so far i ran against a z06 vette from a dig that actually had a 11 second flat time slip(he shipped his car to the big island which has a 1/4 mile strip) and i had 3 car lengths on him when he let up after 1/8th mile and that was on 20 psi. like i said before no one will run me when i turn it up to 32.
comparing my car to hal's we make similar power on high boost but i have a better power band(running a smaller turbo so should be a given) and lighter weight by alot. he has done 9.3 in the quarter so i think i should be able to break into the 8's. if not switching to lexan windows and the redoing the rear suspension will get me there.
I now run a 67 Camaro set up for road racing with a full custom frame and cage. It has a pissed off dry sump 383 stroker with a 4.065 bore, nasty cam and weighs about 2500lbs. Jerico 4 speed, 12 bolt with 3.08 gears, 335/35/17 rears..Nasty ****!!
The damn thing scares the hell out of me honestly. I thought the Z was fast but this car is scary cause its so light and glued to the road.
My Z was CP pistons, Pauter H beams,knife edged stock crank, unsleeved stock block, Brian Crower Stage 3 cams and a full head job from Headgames with Ferrea components. The turbos were a bit on the small side to really take advantage of the porting and polishing job on the heads, but the potential was there if I upgraded.
I was running an APS extreme kit, which I believer were GT30r's but on the smaller side. I was in the process of doing a twin front mount with twin GT35RS turbos at the time, when the business fell apart.
The thing that broke on my car was a turbo, that the turbine broke off and sent bearings and material into my oil pan. when I pulled the motor apart it was in pristine condition. Since I didnt have the business any more the wife threatened to cut my nuts off if I spent another penny on the car, so to make her happy I got out of the game cause I also had an Evo at the time and had just had my 2nd child, so out of the car game I went for a few years...
I miss the **** out of my Z. Some kid in western PA has it now..Looks the same except a NA junkyard motor...
If I was gonna buld another Z to drag race only, I would go with a rear back half and a Chevy 12 bolt, TH400 mounted to a VQ3.7L engine and a big *** single turbo up front..And rip all the BS out of the car.
My 10.0 run was definitely a 9 second pass, but believe it or not, I mis-shifted my TH400 from 1 to 2 and slipped into 3 and then pulled back to 2 mid way down the track..A few more weeks I would have had the 2 step dialed in a bit better cause if you look you can see the car launch, then kind of bog then go again..The 2 step I had too much timing being pulled and it killed the 60 foot..And eventually the turbos
The last time I had it out when it broke was an Import Vs Domestic event and I decided to foot brake it and not used the Trans brake, and went 10.27/10.27 and 10.26....then some supra was running 9.90's so I decided to show off and 2 step it on my 4th time trial and bam...The rear of the turbine actually came off and was in the damn down pipe..LOL...
The damn thing scares the hell out of me honestly. I thought the Z was fast but this car is scary cause its so light and glued to the road.
My Z was CP pistons, Pauter H beams,knife edged stock crank, unsleeved stock block, Brian Crower Stage 3 cams and a full head job from Headgames with Ferrea components. The turbos were a bit on the small side to really take advantage of the porting and polishing job on the heads, but the potential was there if I upgraded.
I was running an APS extreme kit, which I believer were GT30r's but on the smaller side. I was in the process of doing a twin front mount with twin GT35RS turbos at the time, when the business fell apart.
The thing that broke on my car was a turbo, that the turbine broke off and sent bearings and material into my oil pan. when I pulled the motor apart it was in pristine condition. Since I didnt have the business any more the wife threatened to cut my nuts off if I spent another penny on the car, so to make her happy I got out of the game cause I also had an Evo at the time and had just had my 2nd child, so out of the car game I went for a few years...
I miss the **** out of my Z. Some kid in western PA has it now..Looks the same except a NA junkyard motor...
If I was gonna buld another Z to drag race only, I would go with a rear back half and a Chevy 12 bolt, TH400 mounted to a VQ3.7L engine and a big *** single turbo up front..And rip all the BS out of the car.
My 10.0 run was definitely a 9 second pass, but believe it or not, I mis-shifted my TH400 from 1 to 2 and slipped into 3 and then pulled back to 2 mid way down the track..A few more weeks I would have had the 2 step dialed in a bit better cause if you look you can see the car launch, then kind of bog then go again..The 2 step I had too much timing being pulled and it killed the 60 foot..And eventually the turbos
The last time I had it out when it broke was an Import Vs Domestic event and I decided to foot brake it and not used the Trans brake, and went 10.27/10.27 and 10.26....then some supra was running 9.90's so I decided to show off and 2 step it on my 4th time trial and bam...The rear of the turbine actually came off and was in the damn down pipe..LOL...
#202
that is a beautiful car................ i would love to have a first gen although i dont think i could do more then a very mild resto mod and just use it as a cruiser. i cant cut up history, its not like the Z where i dont give a **** about anything then going faster.
i run an unsleeved block as well, .0035 clearances on the mains and rods,cosworth oil control baffle, arp mains and l19 head studs with dynosty head gasket. i run about .0025 top gap and .0027 bottom gap for rings. i took my knowledge from domestics and applied it to my Z, i initially had kelford stage 1 na intake and stage 2 FI exhaust cams on order for the car but z1 auto in new york ****ed me and i had to get my money back through the back. needed the car togeather and after putting it togeather the performance i hit made me perfectly happy. frankly the stock heads flow enough for 500 hp NA, the engine just dosnt have enough displacement to do so.
for the rear im retaining the IRS however the diff mount is changing, the rear cover will have bolt on ears similar to how the viper diff mounts in the rear but bolted on vs cast in with heim joints at the top bolting to the cage and the front in place of the ear mounting points i will have brackets bolted in for a four link setup. have the adjustable 4 link for weight transfer for the strip but still retain all the benefits of the IRS. PLUS solve the whole issue of "solid vs brace vs holy **** we fixed it but now cracked the aluminum subframe." got the idea looking at the old vettes and was like "why not do it to the z?, it definitely works"
my car has all the bs ripped out, ive rewired the car for only the essentials. i saved like 100 lbs just ditching all the ac crap. this is the dash to give a general idea although i need to quit messing with the wiring and wrap it already and i ran a 4 inch exhaust out the rocker panel.
so far i ran against a z06 vette from a dig that actually had a 11 second flat time slip(he shipped his car to the big island which has a 1/4 mile strip) and i had 3 car lengths on him when he let up after 1/8th mile and that was on 20 psi. like i said before no one will run me when i turn it up to 32.
comparing my car to hal's we make similar power on high boost but i have a better power band(running a smaller turbo so should be a given) and lighter weight by alot. he has done 9.3 in the quarter so i think i should be able to break into the 8's. if not switching to lexan windows and the redoing the rear suspension will get me there.
i run an unsleeved block as well, .0035 clearances on the mains and rods,cosworth oil control baffle, arp mains and l19 head studs with dynosty head gasket. i run about .0025 top gap and .0027 bottom gap for rings. i took my knowledge from domestics and applied it to my Z, i initially had kelford stage 1 na intake and stage 2 FI exhaust cams on order for the car but z1 auto in new york ****ed me and i had to get my money back through the back. needed the car togeather and after putting it togeather the performance i hit made me perfectly happy. frankly the stock heads flow enough for 500 hp NA, the engine just dosnt have enough displacement to do so.
for the rear im retaining the IRS however the diff mount is changing, the rear cover will have bolt on ears similar to how the viper diff mounts in the rear but bolted on vs cast in with heim joints at the top bolting to the cage and the front in place of the ear mounting points i will have brackets bolted in for a four link setup. have the adjustable 4 link for weight transfer for the strip but still retain all the benefits of the IRS. PLUS solve the whole issue of "solid vs brace vs holy **** we fixed it but now cracked the aluminum subframe." got the idea looking at the old vettes and was like "why not do it to the z?, it definitely works"
my car has all the bs ripped out, ive rewired the car for only the essentials. i saved like 100 lbs just ditching all the ac crap. this is the dash to give a general idea although i need to quit messing with the wiring and wrap it already and i ran a 4 inch exhaust out the rocker panel.
so far i ran against a z06 vette from a dig that actually had a 11 second flat time slip(he shipped his car to the big island which has a 1/4 mile strip) and i had 3 car lengths on him when he let up after 1/8th mile and that was on 20 psi. like i said before no one will run me when i turn it up to 32.
comparing my car to hal's we make similar power on high boost but i have a better power band(running a smaller turbo so should be a given) and lighter weight by alot. he has done 9.3 in the quarter so i think i should be able to break into the 8's. if not switching to lexan windows and the redoing the rear suspension will get me there.
Please tell me those are not fuel lines on the inside of the car... Get that **** out if it is..No going back on that interior huh? Looks bad ***..
We did see several cracked aluminum subframes on cars back in the days and it was always people who drag raced alot. One of them was a 12 second N/A Z. Do you care about specific classes or not? Cause I believe 4 link is not allowed in certain classes as well as lexan..That puts you in the class with all the 6 second cars if I remember correctly.
Lets see some pics of the engine bay..
BTW this was my Z
Last edited by Dajersyrat; 06-02-2014 at 05:07 PM.
#203
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
the dyno couldnt pick up my rpm signal so the torque was ****ed up, i added the rpm to the bottom based on stock 5th gear 1:1(4th actually was slipping on the DJ i was on), 3.54 stock rear gear and the 285/30/18 tired i originally ran(and the source to my slipping on the dyno............. low boost would let me start a burn out in first and get to 4th without grabbing they where **** generals. actual torque based on hp should have been around 601 at 4800 give or take a tiny bit. although i largely dont bother with it unless someone asks because it was slipping so bad.
clutch was a single full faced south bend, i bought it for the advertised rating and the cheap price and good things i have always heard about southbend. not its a 6 puck extreme that they informed me "will break the transmission before it slips" and it hasnt yet after break in. the more it slipped the worse it got however thats why we called it good. usually sintered iron is what improves with heat.
Does that say 1400ft lbs of TQ? Perhaps that dyno was effed up..Why would it read so high on the TQ and low on the HP?
Was the clutch a dual or triple carbon by any chance? My dual carbon slipped if it was cold, I would have to literally slip it to warm it up then it would hold.
clutch was a single full faced south bend, i bought it for the advertised rating and the cheap price and good things i have always heard about southbend. not its a 6 puck extreme that they informed me "will break the transmission before it slips" and it hasnt yet after break in. the more it slipped the worse it got however thats why we called it good. usually sintered iron is what improves with heat.
Does that say 1400ft lbs of TQ? Perhaps that dyno was effed up..Why would it read so high on the TQ and low on the HP?
Was the clutch a dual or triple carbon by any chance? My dual carbon slipped if it was cold, I would have to literally slip it to warm it up then it would hold.
#204
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
haha in the process of building a firewall for them. at least for now. im tired of ****ing with stainless braided lines, they are bulky and a pain in the *** to build. im going to convert over to hardline staineles and they will go back under the car. my fuel system is a bit over kill running dual -8 an feed, dual bosch 044's and -6 an return however its a test bed until im tired of the vq and it gets put into a s chassis for the wife and the warhawk 427 twin 7675 build starts.
ive been seeing several subframes with the issue recently. ive been able to hold out so far because my stock bushings are still holding. or mayby they are shot i havnt looked recently but i dont have wheel hop i either have traction or i burn the tires off the car not much inbetween.
for my personal cars i never build for a class i simply build what i want to enjoy and race it wherever they let me.
sec ill run down and take pics.
ive been seeing several subframes with the issue recently. ive been able to hold out so far because my stock bushings are still holding. or mayby they are shot i havnt looked recently but i dont have wheel hop i either have traction or i burn the tires off the car not much inbetween.
for my personal cars i never build for a class i simply build what i want to enjoy and race it wherever they let me.
sec ill run down and take pics.
Please tell me those are not fuel lines on the inside of the car... Get that **** out if it is..No going back on that interior huh? Looks bad ***..
We did see several cracked aluminum subframes on cars back in the days and it was always people who drag raced alot. One of them was a 12 second N/A Z. Do you care about specific classes or not? Cause I believe 4 link is not allowed in certain classes as well as lexan..That puts you in the class with all the 6 second cars if I remember correctly.
Lets see some pics of the engine bay..
BTW this was my Z
We did see several cracked aluminum subframes on cars back in the days and it was always people who drag raced alot. One of them was a 12 second N/A Z. Do you care about specific classes or not? Cause I believe 4 link is not allowed in certain classes as well as lexan..That puts you in the class with all the 6 second cars if I remember correctly.
Lets see some pics of the engine bay..
BTW this was my Z
#205
the dyno couldnt pick up my rpm signal so the torque was ****ed up, i added the rpm to the bottom based on stock 5th gear 1:1(4th actually was slipping on the DJ i was on), 3.54 stock rear gear and the 285/30/18 tired i originally ran(and the source to my slipping on the dyno............. low boost would let me start a burn out in first and get to 4th without grabbing they where **** generals. actual torque based on hp should have been around 601 at 4800 give or take a tiny bit. although i largely dont bother with it unless someone asks because it was slipping so bad.
clutch was a single full faced south bend, i bought it for the advertised rating and the cheap price and good things i have always heard about southbend. not its a 6 puck extreme that they informed me "will break the transmission before it slips" and it hasnt yet after break in. the more it slipped the worse it got however thats why we called it good. usually sintered iron is what improves with heat.
clutch was a single full faced south bend, i bought it for the advertised rating and the cheap price and good things i have always heard about southbend. not its a 6 puck extreme that they informed me "will break the transmission before it slips" and it hasnt yet after break in. the more it slipped the worse it got however thats why we called it good. usually sintered iron is what improves with heat.
Could be a TO bearing issue. I had that on my Camaro where I actually had to wind up running a .025 spacer in between the tranny and bell housing cause the TO bearing to clutch surface math wasnt adding up. The TO bearing would pre load the clutch fingers and it would slip when I ripped on it.
#206
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Wow.. Lol, no I don't drive the green G, I have a 350z...not sure why you keep bringing up the TN kit???... That was proved to be a pos back in 2006...again who here is arguing the benefits of a t3 vs a t4??? Your reading comprehension is lacking little Jerry. All rude showed was a t3 pushing over well over 550whp n stock headers..which was a bp statement that it couldn't unless t4 and stock headers were there... and was incorrect. The smaller gt35r and gt37r got maxed out on the out the box pl kit., and it pushed was capable with the 76s n the green G, showing the kit was able to flow the 76S turbo appropriate with just enough modifications to fit the t4..., I ran custom headers and 3.5" dp
The shops I mention run t4 turbos, good job Sherlock figuring it out...that was not the point, point was they also tuned customers cars on the t3 setups and achieved well over 500 whp for customers, on stock headers(that was the point of the thread)...try and keep up,
Also bp made their statement against any other kits, I run a pl kit but his statements are incorrect against other kits like greddy, aps, momentum.
Nobody here cares about your "respect"...its good you do your own work though, fabrication specially.....
The shops I mention run t4 turbos, good job Sherlock figuring it out...that was not the point, point was they also tuned customers cars on the t3 setups and achieved well over 500 whp for customers, on stock headers(that was the point of the thread)...try and keep up,
Also bp made their statement against any other kits, I run a pl kit but his statements are incorrect against other kits like greddy, aps, momentum.
Nobody here cares about your "respect"...its good you do your own work though, fabrication specially.....
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 06-02-2014 at 05:25 PM.
#207
I had a pretty trick TH400 set up for the Z done if you need pics of it. We had ProTQ build us a custom converter to fit right onto a Nissan flex plate..It was self centering and properly spaced. Pretty much idiot proof. I might even still have the custom drive shaft somewhere in my shed.. If your gonna do drag racing, screw that Nissan 6 speed, it falls apart and no one rebuilds them. Go TH400 with a trans brake.
#208
Wow.. Lol, no I don't drive the green G, I have a 350z...not sure why you keep bringing up the TN kit???... That was proved to be a pos back in 2006...again who here is arguing the benefits of a t3 vs a t4??? Your reading comprehension is lacking little Jerry. Why would you bother doing 800whp on a single t3??? All rude showed was a t3 pushing over well over 550whp n stock headers..which was a bp statement that it couldn't unless t4 and stock headers were there... and was incorrect. The smaller gt35r and gt37r got maxed out on the out the box pl kit., and it pushed was capable with the 76s n the green G, showing the kit was able to flow the 76S turbo appropriately with just enough modifications to fit the t4...
The shops I mention run t4 turbos, good job Sherlock figuring it out...that was not try e point, point was they also tuned customers cars on the t3 setups and achieved 500 who...try and keep up, and minimize the wall of text plz.
Also bp made their statement against any other kits, I run a pl kit but his statements are incorrect against other kits like greddy, aps, momentum.
Nobody here cares about your "respect"...its good to you your own work... Save up.
The shops I mention run t4 turbos, good job Sherlock figuring it out...that was not try e point, point was they also tuned customers cars on the t3 setups and achieved 500 who...try and keep up, and minimize the wall of text plz.
Also bp made their statement against any other kits, I run a pl kit but his statements are incorrect against other kits like greddy, aps, momentum.
Nobody here cares about your "respect"...its good to you your own work... Save up.
I made this on a crap TN kit and built motor...
[IMG][/IMG]
Ad 13% for Dyno Jet numbers so your looking at 544 to the wheels on pump gas on a crap Turbonetic kit. It was modified a bit to have dual open wastegates. (dont ask...)
#209
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
unfinished pic of the lower plenum i run(im shitty on taking pics of updates.)
quick spool welding stainless with mig, never do that again ill stick with tig. have a tial mvr for the new setup however and the 60 will be a post turbo dump so i can run a quieter exhaust
new fans going in x2
engine bay is rather unassuming.im not into the whole bling bling thing. tore down for the new projects atm.
power steering relocated. have tensioners sitting on counter i need to modify the alternator one.
new cowl induction hood to make room for new intake, and why everthing is coated in bondo dust. hoping to finish at least most of this up today and start the fiberglass mold tomarrow.
quick spool welding stainless with mig, never do that again ill stick with tig. have a tial mvr for the new setup however and the 60 will be a post turbo dump so i can run a quieter exhaust
new fans going in x2
engine bay is rather unassuming.im not into the whole bling bling thing. tore down for the new projects atm.
power steering relocated. have tensioners sitting on counter i need to modify the alternator one.
new cowl induction hood to make room for new intake, and why everthing is coated in bondo dust. hoping to finish at least most of this up today and start the fiberglass mold tomarrow.
#210
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
nah was definitely just the clutch not up to the job, when i pulled everything apart there where chunks of the clutch stuck to the flywheel where it began to weld itself to it.
Could be a TO bearing issue. I had that on my Camaro where I actually had to wind up running a .025 spacer in between the tranny and bell housing cause the TO bearing to clutch surface math wasnt adding up. The TO bearing would pre load the clutch fingers and it would slip when I ripped on it.
#211
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
why not post track times then? dynos are variable this is known, like i said i know right now a dyno i could post a 500 whp dyno of the stillen under VERY limited test conditions dosnt mean i should market that unless im trying to scam people. i suppose you dont know jeff binder, who had his car at hals and even with a t4 6765 couldnt push past 550 whp on stock headers and jumped 100 whp swapping to aftermarket. dynos from the same manufacturer can vary as much as 15% dosnt mean we should take the high reading dynos as gospel like you seem dead set to do. the one with the lack of reading comprehension is yourself. for EVERY dyno exceeding 550 whp on stock headers i can provide you a dozen people who COULDNT with the exact same setups. know what that means? ill help you its called high reading dynos which is normal they happen. if you EVER actually built anything yourself you would know this. fact is stock headers arnt going to push past 550 for the majority of users and those that do? well they arnt going to perform any better then the other guys. there isnt any magic spell to magically make it work. everyone using the same parts their performance will be similar. the changes in the tuning will be minimal. the track is the real measure of performance and its funny you cant provide ANY of those cars on the track performing where they should be for the extra power they make.
no idea on any comments from him on any of the other kits you listen i really dont pay much attention julian is the one who caught my eye because he seems similar to myself. the reason no one cares is because this forum is a forum of trolls now, nothing innovative will ever come from here again because those members have left and the ones remaining cant do **** themselves.
no idea on any comments from him on any of the other kits you listen i really dont pay much attention julian is the one who caught my eye because he seems similar to myself. the reason no one cares is because this forum is a forum of trolls now, nothing innovative will ever come from here again because those members have left and the ones remaining cant do **** themselves.
Wow.. Lol, no I don't drive the green G, I have a 350z...not sure why you keep bringing up the TN kit???... That was proved to be a pos back in 2006...again who here is arguing the benefits of a t3 vs a t4??? Your reading comprehension is lacking little Jerry. All rude showed was a t3 pushing over well over 550whp n stock headers..which was a bp statement that it couldn't unless t4 and stock headers were there... and was incorrect. The smaller gt35r and gt37r got maxed out on the out the box pl kit., and it pushed was capable with the 76s n the green G, showing the kit was able to flow the 76S turbo appropriate with just enough modifications to fit the t4..., I ran custom headers and 3.5" dp
The shops I mention run t4 turbos, good job Sherlock figuring it out...that was not the point, point was they also tuned customers cars on the t3 setups and achieved well over 500 whp for customers, on stock headers(that was the point of the thread)...try and keep up,
Also bp made their statement against any other kits, I run a pl kit but his statements are incorrect against other kits like greddy, aps, momentum.
Nobody here cares about your "respect"...its good you do your own work though, fabrication specially.....
The shops I mention run t4 turbos, good job Sherlock figuring it out...that was not the point, point was they also tuned customers cars on the t3 setups and achieved well over 500 whp for customers, on stock headers(that was the point of the thread)...try and keep up,
Also bp made their statement against any other kits, I run a pl kit but his statements are incorrect against other kits like greddy, aps, momentum.
Nobody here cares about your "respect"...its good you do your own work though, fabrication specially.....
#212
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
the funny thing is my stock 03(non cd009) had held up just fine. and with a little machining the early transmissions can be converted to the cd009 syncros which is the only real issue with them. sound performance ran over 1200 whp on one. looking into the transmission i might be able to convert them over to a true sequential shift also and PAG makes dog box gears for them. this is something i just started looking into in the past couple days though so not sure what will come of it.
I had a pretty trick TH400 set up for the Z done if you need pics of it. We had ProTQ build us a custom converter to fit right onto a Nissan flex plate..It was self centering and properly spaced. Pretty much idiot proof. I might even still have the custom drive shaft somewhere in my shed.. If your gonna do drag racing, screw that Nissan 6 speed, it falls apart and no one rebuilds them. Go TH400 with a trans brake.
#213
the funny thing is my stock 03(non cd009) had held up just fine. and with a little machining the early transmissions can be converted to the cd009 syncros which is the only real issue with them. sound performance ran over 1200 whp on one. looking into the transmission i might be able to convert them over to a true sequential shift also and PAG makes dog box gears for them. this is something i just started looking into in the past couple days though so not sure what will come of it.
#216
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Ugh...again, i said the sam thing... I couldn't are more about track times being a true measure, I wouldn't be arguing just on dynos, I've seen the cars push 10-11 seconds... that all they had a legal cage for... there even used to be some videos on line, and time sheets were posted here several times ago...I believe there used to be a thread with the track times and posted time slip scans....i don't have the time to go look for you, do it yourself...julian probably remembers
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 06-02-2014 at 06:52 PM.
#217
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iTrader: (4)
actually no time slips have been posted to back you up and ive been through this forum countless times and nothing pops up. why? because the cars they where actually taking to the track where t4 cars not ragged out t3 that where struggling to put out some number on a high reading dyno to make a shop look like they had some magic spell to make the cars somehow bypass physics and fluidynamics.
in fact a thread DOES exist and none of the t3 cars are posting 10 second time slips the CLOSEST was a 11 flat with a gt37 which was a optional turbo and ive only seen one mayby two of them., all the rest of the single turbo t3 cars are running in the 12s and mid 11's several on all out built cars posting times that are seen on this platform with 480ish hp from cars that are supposedly making over 500. treating them like the gospel and rule instead of the exception they are, and the exception due to very selective testing conditions. fact is you and rude call me a BP nut hugger(how does that even make ****ing sense when i dont even run his product anymore and producing a product that will compete with his?) yet are swinging with huge *** smiles on your face from intense and powerlabs nuts. seriously i have never seen so much of it my entire time on this forum until you two.
FACT your attempting to go off of memory and your memory is **** because your not even close.
in fact a thread DOES exist and none of the t3 cars are posting 10 second time slips the CLOSEST was a 11 flat with a gt37 which was a optional turbo and ive only seen one mayby two of them., all the rest of the single turbo t3 cars are running in the 12s and mid 11's several on all out built cars posting times that are seen on this platform with 480ish hp from cars that are supposedly making over 500. treating them like the gospel and rule instead of the exception they are, and the exception due to very selective testing conditions. fact is you and rude call me a BP nut hugger(how does that even make ****ing sense when i dont even run his product anymore and producing a product that will compete with his?) yet are swinging with huge *** smiles on your face from intense and powerlabs nuts. seriously i have never seen so much of it my entire time on this forum until you two.
FACT your attempting to go off of memory and your memory is **** because your not even close.
Ugh...again, i said the sam thing... I couldn't are more about track times being a true measure, I wouldn't be arguing just on dynos, I've seen the cars push 10-11 seconds... that all they had a legal cage for... there even used to be some videos on line, and time sheets were posted here several times ago...I believe there used to be a thread with the track times and posted time slip scans....i don't have the time to go look for you, do it yourself...julian probably remembers
Last edited by jerryd87; 06-02-2014 at 07:08 PM.
#219
Ugh...again, i said the sam thing... I couldn't are more about track times being a true measure, I wouldn't be arguing just on dynos, I've seen the cars push 10-11 seconds... that all they had a legal cage for... there even used to be some videos on line, and time sheets were posted here several times ago...I believe there used to be a thread with the track times and posted time slip scans....i don't have the time to go look for you, do it yourself...julian probably remembers
https://my350z.com/forum/drag/233840...ons-stock.html
But the list is BS cause my car and none of Vinny Ten's cars are on it, so its all paid advertisers that were in good standing basically..So you wont see any of the real fast cars on the list..
Last edited by Dajersyrat; 06-03-2014 at 04:41 AM.
#220
BTW that TN single T3 dyno I posted was a dyno dynamic number.. Ad 13% to simulate dynojet, so that car was making about 550 on pump gas. Little T3 and the worst one on the market no less..The kit was modified to have twin wastegates cause the TN kit loved to boost creep and overboost. also might have had an open dump and redesigned downpipe. Cant remember.
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