chill out man he just gave you an option that is not as expensive. plus with a SC you would have as much issue. there is a lot involved in converting a car from NA to FI. It's for example, in an EVO fuel is regulated via the ECU, although on the Z it's not an option since it's fixed from factory, so a fuel regulator, and rfs is required for more power...

SC is a simple and easy way to get you in the power range you want... also don't forget emission test you might not think about it now but it will be PIA to get it with a turbo'ed Z.. on the other hand on a SC you can run HFC and call it a day...

these are some stuff to keep in mind... we are not trying to push you to get a SC nor we motivate and brand we are trying to tell you what we know...

 

The guy who said your goals aren't too exotic was simply stating that because you don't have lofty ambitions, you're still well within SC range. Some don't like the sound of the SC- some just WANT turbo... that's your right- but if you want these guys to help out I recommend that you be polite about it.

The things I've added above are all things I had integrated in my build. Like I said, I'm told 350s need the cooling even moreso than the G platform- so I'd take a REALLY hard look at those mods. Boost control requirement will kind of depend on what kit you pick up... and again though originally I figured Haltech was too "lofty" for my goals- when I started doing the math regarding what was included in the Haltech versus what I ended up having to invest in to use Osiris... even at 400hp... it gets pretty close.

Haltech is still more expensive (by a slim margin) but now that a bunch should become available once the integrated ECU unit they're putting out shows up en mass... prices will likely be VERY attractive! There are some nice safety features that most of the guys in here will swear by that I know enough to read about but not to repeat back verbatim, no dependence on the MAF so no need for the upgraded MAF... I think it has its own boost controller- dual widebands etc... so you have to invest in less supporting "stuff." Beauty is it's all designed to work together... The battle of Haltech versus Osiris for me lasted right up until I was tuned and I've remained torn about it. From a performance perspective, at your goal power, Osiris is MORE than capable of the task... but associated costs do start to make the cost part of the decision less obvious.

I've already told you I'm no expert- but I have picked up a thing or two here and there. These are things I had to decide on, while not knowing much... and I think I'm pretty close to the mark. I'm happier than hell to be corrected if need be so feel free-

 

Borla will give a Deep sound. It's louder/deeper than stock of course, and it's similar to the Nismo in volume i think. Motordyne is loud but not ricey at all, sounds pretty awesome imo. When you do the cats, make sure you carefully select a set that you like. There are some testpipe/HFC combinations that can create rasp or ricey sound.

If you go with Borla, you will probably need to get back under there and tweak it a bit, it likes to rattle. A big rattle spot is the passenger side hanger near the muffler.

There is a ton of threads here and video on youtube with great examples of what you will get. If you want test pipes, i would go with the Motordyne ART route if you dont want to worry about getting rasp, pricey but worth it.

 

Depending upon the price I get the turbo kit for I have about 2k on the list and the exhaust will be another 2k figure kit around 4-7k depending on brand and I'm somewhere in the 10-12k range without install.
@itnkicn I didn't include those because I noticed that most if not all is covered in the kit, but ill def look into the haltech upgrade over the kits
@ruthless sorry if it came off harsh
@dj I'm going with a turbo build because I personally believe only muscle cars should have a sc on them, and yes I like the turbo sound lol. I didn't mean for my comments to come off as defensive as I now see they can be taken. Yes I understand about the knowledge and help that is here which is why I posted since a lot of threads go off topic for pages and only have a handful of useful posts that relate to what I'm doing
To all: again I appreciate the help so far and to come.

 

if you are not building your motor, any turbo kit will be fine. even a turbonetics could max out your motor

my build list would be

any ST kit you want (id choose BP with a T4 6266 with biggest A/R)
return fuel system
Aeromotive 340lph pump
DW600cc injectors
biggest trans cooler available
transgo kit
UTEC with boost solenoid or Uprev with aftermarket boost controller
AEM wideband
oil pressure gauge
boost gauge
any exhaust

the radiator/hoses would be for looks only and money that could be spent on better things

 

You can pretty much forget APS, they have abandoned the US market, so you will be getting a kit with zero parts or support availability.

PL, do they still make kits Did they make a kit for a 5AT

The issue you will have is the 5AT, not a lot out there for that.

F/I is a process, not cheap or easy, you are getting solid help from several experienced members. Keep giving input on your goals and we will continue to guide you along the way

 

Talked to a guy at intense and he said they can do the PL kit install on a 5AT just requires some additional fab of some parts which is only like 200-300 more for it.

I also talked to Marti from s&r about their kit and they are working to come out with one but haven't gotten one in yet but he expects one to come out. Question there is price and how long till release which I'm still talking to him about.

This is also why Im thinking of going tt with a mild tune to avoid an engine build since I only have 20k on mine. And that will also allow me to upgrade easier after I buy my 69 camaro z28 that I'm going to keep as a 350/350 stock so I could dd that car while building up the z more. Max I'm looking at for hp is 600 which requires engine work which I'm trying to hold off on.

Been researching like crazy, found some good information from nicoclub.com for before Mods and engine builds if more ppl ask and I'm sure they will.

Appreciate all the input and assistance, now back to more research.

 

another 5k if youre gonna do this, make sure you can afford another 10k+ to fix it just in case your motor does go kaboom.

 

For now I'm trying to avoid an engine build since mine only has 20k on it.

 

I can tell you the Greddy twins work with the 5at as i have had them on for about 5 or 6 years now and Greddy rec's them only for the 6mt.

 

Be careful, a few members have had issues with that shop lately in terms of getting their builds completed. PM bmccann101 and ask him about his experience, I believe his car is there now.

Not to knock another site, but there is a reason we are the largest 350Z community on the interwebs. This section in particular is filled with hardcore modders that have been there and done that. The members here speak from firsthand experience with their own cars after having spent their own money doing builds.

 

I know, I just found the basic before you mod questions/steps helpful along with their engine build steps. It's no way in comparisons to the technical and detailed information I get from here.

 

Ya I noticed that. Looking at Greddy,GMT,SFR, and JWT TT kits now. Thinking of a tuned kit so I don't have to redo fuel system or anything when I do upgrade from current goal of around 400whp to around 600whp.

 

And by upgrading to 600 are you talking about in a different platform? Doing that on a 5AT isn't impossible... I see a couple guys in the top 50 list who are there... don't get me wrong... but- man. That's aa whole different conversation.

I don't know- the experts can chime in but 600 is lofty unless you're talking about fully built long block, fully built transmission, 1000+ injectors, twin fuel pumps (or big single) ... Water meth... bigger IC (depending on your 400kit)... exhaust upgrade... Osiris might be stretched in terms of the safety features other EMS have... axles possibly (though not as big a deal with the AT I guess because of the TC)... cooling issues... piping restrictions...

Are you just lobbing numbers out there randomly or do you have some goal in mind?

 

Sorry for the confusion there. As of right now my goal is around 400 to avoid an engine build currently. I want to be able to upgrade into the 500's, I put 600 there as a max more or less but really only expecting to break into the 500's.

Price isn't a huge concern of mine but since I'm a financial nerd in that aspect pricing projections are always done. The engine build I have being planned for whenever I do it is already over 10k so I'm just trying to properly prep.

 

I'm not really concerned about finances either but there comes a time when the car spends so much time in the shop from getting tightened up and modified that you never (ever) get to drive it (ever!) Then it becomes a tedious nuissance- unless you're doing the work yourself and you're in a demographic where work and solving the problem IS the reward- in which case I say shoot for 700!

 

I just saw a few of their tt builds on some Zs at xdc/hin in Phoenix. Seems like they do decent work once it's finally done haha

 

Lol. I understand. Which is why I'm breaking up the upgrades. Starting with trans and tt kit with little accessories then build the engine when I want to go past the 400whp. Which should minimize shop time, since my plan for the engine can withstand over 800, with Brian cowler and cosworth parts mostly.

 

It won't minimize the shop time really maybe a week or two at most.