I love your JDM-ness!

But I still think you're a tool.

Good luck on your build.

 

So you're installing a OS Giken street master hard clutch kit?
What do you mean "I don't like the intake that comes with the tuner kit"?
For exhaust, just go all 3" GTM
Any way you look at it, you will have emission problems.
For the plenum, it's one or the other. Spacer or plenum.
If you're going all out, might as well get: PML trans cover, Koyo 3 core radiator, pathfinder cooling mod, a good suspension, 10.5" rear rims with 295+ tires, LSD and at least a few gauges (trans & engine oil temp, boost etc.). I'm not sure what gauges the platinum can come with (dual wideband)

 

Thanks. Made me laugh lol.

 

Yes I'm considering having the OS Giken installed.

It's the K&N filter that comes with it, and I want something different from to put my car separate a little bit.

I have a couple exhausts that I'm looking at currently, thank you though. Not really. MD is OBD reader so as long as I don't throw a CEL I'll be good unless the visual inspect and can tell that there aren't cats on which they usually can't.

I just forgot to remove the spacer, dj told me that it wasn't needed. Thank you though.

If that was the case I'd go with ARC as they are a top JDM cooling manufacturer but they are also like 10x more expensive but here still room for changes. The stock LSD should be fine unless GTM suggests changing it when they do my trans. I have suspension and gauges; Haltech racepak IQ3 dash display optional datalogger that has most the gauges I'd need; listed on my paper list just didn't include them on here yet. I'm running 17's and leaning towards 8.5 front 9.5 rear but don't know much about wheels and offsets so I'm still researching it with 265/295 tread.

I'll make an edit tomorrow to clear some of the mistakes up. Also another reason on parts is that I'm going mostly JDM as long as I can get support or it isn't that big of a difference but huge difference in price i.e. ARC radiator being 1300 with moshimoto being 450.

 

 

GTM rates their auto tranny to hold 600whp on the dyno. So judging by their other business practices with tt vq37's, I wouldn't trust that.

Those CAI's for a NA car wont fit on your turbo system. WTF is wrong with people.

 

WTF are you talking about short shifter?

He's talking about clutch packs I assume

Yall need to be more careful about the advice you give, because there's a bunch of bad advice in this thread.

 

Amazes me how moronic people can be. I didn't create this thread for a bunch of wise a$$ remarks, I made it to help me through my build. Yes there is tons of horrible information in here which annoys the hell out of me because I'm trying to learn more about this so when I go to the shop I'm a little familiar with what they will be talking about and can tell them more of what I want.

Please don't post on this thread if you don't have something constructive to add that would assist or correct information. Thank you to those who've helped so far.

 

There is an OS Giken LSD, which would work fine with your 5AT. That has nothing to do with their clutch used in our 6MTs. There is no room for anything but the proper sized K&N filter with any of the turbo kits. You cannot see the intakes anyway for the most part (unless you locate them high in the engine bay like the Greddy kit does - and there's even less space then).

Business practices, speculation and real world experience are different things. The GTM 5AT has held up well for me and I am grateful for it. I've looked around for some other solution that is as robust and the fact is, nothing is unbreakable, not even the 6MT.

 

gm adapter plate and a built 6l80e.

they got those holding 1000whp now.

done and done

 

GTM is currently dropping their stage 4 tranny in mine. As for exhaust, the bigger the piping the better. If your going with twins then I would recommend a dual exhaust.

 

I don't know that that transmission is any better than ours. More people pushing higher hp with GM, but I've read reports of them failing too - and they are just as expensive...

 

Circle D built the 6l80e for a 1000whp LMR camaro but consensus is that it still may burn up clutch packs past 700whp. Too early to tell.

At least there are ALOT of companies messing with that tranny, pushing limits. You'll never get that with a Nissan VQ trans. Too bad Shep/Dodson never got involved like they did with the GTR.

 

The 6l80e I think is unique in that it doesn't use bands to get the planetary gears to stop so that another one can engage. Everything is left to the clutch packs and appropriate timing (tuning). I think that is going to make it much harder to handle high power shifting gears just because there is so much less surface area on a clutch vs a band. Of course the clutches are stacked... Maybe it will be fine if they work out the bugs of the HP tuners software, which last time I checked, had destroyed multiple transmissions with bugs corrupting the TCM in those units.

 

Since I have no intentions of even going past 600hp, I think I'll be fine with just upgrades to current trans. And from the looks of it GTM stage 3 trans upgrade will cover just that, of course I'm going to try and contact them and see if there's a way to step it up another notch just for a little added cushion.

 

Well said.
I personally looked at th400 by vtr before I decided to go cd009. The cd0009 swap with spec twin is right around the same cost as a fully built tranny by ipt/gtm/level 10, and cheaper than a built auto swap. Hell if you go with an older non 09 tranny (you can get for 400$ ish) it's even cheaper. Considering the reliability comparison, it's a no brainer.

To op, I'm being constructive, yes it's vicious but you have to squash the bs before it spreads.

the re5 can hold up to 500whp fully built fairly reliably I'd say seeing as that's what some of the titan guys put down in a much much heavier vehicle. But if you want to go much higher than that, you're better off buying another tranny from the get go.

I wish a shop made a swap for the 300zx tt tranny, those things have been used in tons of big turbo nissans and hold the power real well. Hell they used one in ivan's low 9 second ka-t s14.

I don't think there will be really anything more they can do for you aside from an ecu reflash. Like rcdash was talking about, a lot of it has to do with the ecu (well in our case, as from what I can tell the oem ecu controls shifting... I do know osiris has the ability to change solenoid pressures etc for shifting, but it's something a well experienced osiris tuner will have to do). The other big component you need to be aware of is how you drive will determine the life of your built auto. Proper maintenance, proper warm up, cool down, launching procedures, proper sized tranny cooler, what kind of driving... making sure the tranny isn't locked up very often etc. It seems like no brainer stuff, but a lot of people forget/flog on the car and break their stuff.

 

EDIT: Stupid question, feel free to ignore!

Is there somewhere where I can find more information on compatiable AT swaps for 05 350? I want to break into the 500's but not break 600whp so I think a stronger trans would be a better call just to be on the safer side of things.

The slight rant post was a general let out. Reading through some of the posts it just frustrates me when I'm asking for help because I don't know what I'm talking about and people respond like it's something everyone should know. I stated in the beginning not to mention the title of the thread that I'm new to this. Not trying to offend anyone but felt a little clarification was needed to avoid further uselessness in the thread.

Since I'm going with Haltech Platinum, doesn't that replace the stock ecu? I tend to drive a bit aggressive (weaving traffic, quick acceleration past people to avoid jams), occassionally I'll do some street racing but that's only maybe 2-4 times a month. I'm pretty good with maintenance for my car, I tend to go overboard a little with making sure everything is fine. Little cash now is better then chunk of cash down the road because I was lazy on maintenance.

Can you amplify what you mean by proper warm-up, cool down, and launching procedures? I've heard about this before but never saw anything to continue up that.

Build list isn't final and I don't think it'll ever be until it's actually in the car, so if there's something I'm mistaken on or doesn't belong with what I think I'm doing please help me correct it. Help so far is really appreciated, thank you.

 

...

 

Google!

The rest of your post is not a question - it's just whining. You've already been spoon fed what is considered general knowledge. If that's not enough, find info posted by others who have done what you are trying to do, and then post up and share. If you have questions, that's fine, but you need to put a little more effort in. There are 2 threads on the different Haltech units. Have you read them?

 

I'm at your level and I can sense the frustration. At the same time, the guys in here get frustrated having to answer the same questions over and over again.

When I went through it I wanted to accumulate enough overall information and understanding so that a shop I went to to get an install done would take me seriously. I learned the hard way that with THESE builds, it is in fact the shop that needs to show that it should be taken seriously.

I'm going to highly recommend you go read my build thread over in driver- as well as the Vancouver Island thread I started here, and the "G35AT TT take two" thread. First post to last. I didn't go through that expensive experience so that guys like you can relive it. All the things you talk about or ask or complain about are already done at my expense... EVERYTHING... from Haltech to LSD to gauges to tuning to questions about ECU to exhausts.

I had exactly the same objectives as you... with exactly the same idea in mind.

And I noticed you were looking at an 8.5-9.5 setup. Don't bother. I'm there and it's the next thing I'm looking to upgrade away from. I got as wide as 275 and any wider and it'll start to bulge in a fashion that just looks attrocious. Don't bother with it. In your power goal I'd be shooting for 285+ RE-11s. 305s if they'll fit without a pull and I think with the 350z you can get away with that. I'm staying away from the R888s because I've heard their water handling is bad and in Vancouver that's a major issue. May not be where you are...

But yeah- 275s are great for wide on NA... not giving me the glue for my current power. DEpending on the dyno I'm sitting between 450-520hp / 400-475tq... From what I've read, RE-11s are great up until about 500 at which point they lose their luster. We lose a LOT of power through the AT... how much exactly- well... I'll leave that to the experts.

And to you experts who think the sarcasm is a great way to show how smart you think you are... for those of us who are in here doing our best it doesn't help. I get it... it's an elite community- and you guys know your stuff down to the 1/100th the width of a strand of hair... but c'mon.

If you're annoyed at the redundancy of the question then leave it the 4ck alone and move on. Half the time it's hard to tell the serious from the retarded.

But yeah- OP... you need to start digging in as well. Do you have a shop to do this for you yet? I know you're leaning towards the GTM kits... but who is doing the work? I'd get some vocabulary started- and pass on the conversation. I wish I'd gotten that started earlier because I would have gotten the advice that would have saved me oodles of cash before my car was half apart and I was committed.