ace32x

iTrader: (10)

i suggest not boosting it, your getting expensive territory for alot of stuff you dont know a whole lot about and chances are with out proper warm up and shut down procedures and such your motor and or tranny will let go and you'll be in a deep hole. go to a different na platform with paddles. m3/m5 c63 amg used gtr etc you'll be about the same cost after all said and done

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

Swapping a transmission isn't a bolt in operation.

A built re5, or one with valve body upgrade, tranny cooler and torque converter will hold what you can make on a stock block.

Nobody is going to help you beyond that because spoon feeding eventually is going to lead you to down the wrong path. We assume you know stuff because if you want to run a modified car you HAVE to know this stuff. Or you can pay out the *** and have a shop do everything and figure out everything for you. Your choice. We all learned it one way or another. Adapt or bail. Your choice.

Eno

iTrader: (1)

I'm definitely in the latter category... and though I've learned a lot about the platform between now and a year and a half ago- mostly in part of what these guys deliver for me- the value to knowledge ratio is prohibitively low. Unfortunately, you can't even use the lack of space as an excuse anymore with guys like Wabama doing full builds in the fricken parking lot of his condo / townhouse (not sure what it is.)

I have no space, no tools no anything and believe me OP- it has cost a small fortune. Well over what the car is worth- A big part of that was going into "built" territory and brakes- Tranny, motor, brakes alone bringing in well over 15k... Closer to 20 by the time all the little things are dealt with.

And having a shop to depend on who CAN solve those problems for you is priceless... just make sure your bills are paid quickly... make sure you don't nag and understand that all these things take time.

Also remember that the bigger you build the more time you're in the shop fixing leaks and other things the platform was never designed for.

Ace32x makes a valid point- and he's seen his share of heartache with the cars he has taken on. Then again, when he hits the road he has a beast.

Careful about talking about "street racing"... maybe I'm reading it wrong but generally frowned upon in the forums.

All you sound like you REALLY want is something more spirited. I'm worse off than you in a G- the thing is a 4cking cow. But honestly I think a lot of what you're looking for could be done in a valve body upgrade, a tune and maybe some bolt ons. You are going into ugly expensive territory-

And so was I... and I didn't care. I knew it, I took it on... and I think I have a pretty good build as a result. But the cost... oooooh dude. The cost.

Thank god for Alberta Oil- is all I have to say about that.

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

looking back i would have much rather picked up something like i listed previously and done some simple mods to that and had something i didnt have to worry about XD that alone is worth some cash XD

RudeG_v2.0

iTrader: (1)

IMO, a trans swap would be unnecessary for your stated power goals. A properly built RE5R05A with a sufficient trans cooler should hold 500's just fine with decent longevity. Raj (rcdash) and Marshall (mrg1981) are both proof of this. Raj has had his built 5AT for a few years with multiple ZDayz air strip runs under his belt and Marshall has had his built 5AT for a couple years with numerous 1/4 mile passes.

Pastmylife357

iTrader: (4)

Appreciate the help even if some of you are a **** about it. Trust me I understand as I'm the same way with my field of work and hobbies so no offense taken. I realize after I made the post that it was a stupid question as I already had the answer just over-looked it in my notes and then got swamped with other things so forgot to edit it. Post has sense been edited.

As far as my questions go, I'm taking a step back from the mod business as I just incurred some wonderfully unexpected legal expenses which will delay anything I had planned for at least 2-3 months in which time I plan on having way more information about cars,mods, and FI.

Also going to take some time and just read up more in-depth about the parts I already have set to purchase and if after all that I'm still confused I have a POC with a similar build type as mine to PM to avoid un-neccessary posts unless of course he can't figure it out neither.

Again I appreciate everyones help so far and what help I may need in the future. As soon as I get this build started I'll be sure to post the progress. Until then taking a step back to get everything under control. Thank you for your help, don't think I could say it enough.

Eno

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with your other issues.

Pastmylife357

iTrader: (4)

All right so I spent the last 2hrs reading through ITNKICNs' thread here and on driver. Should have done that before but hey when your using your cell as your computer cuz your in AK without a computer with internet you try to cut down some, in this case I suggest not and just read everything the first time. That being said I would like to apologize to everyone that has been helping me for my previous ignorance on some of these matters. And look forward to further discussion and help in the future.

ogiehooker

You may want to check out other shops before signing on with GTM...Sam is well known for saying one thing and doing another..my current engine build/install is over 1 yr in grogress and the engine isnt even in the car yet..had to contact a lawyer to get him to begine working on the car and send photos that he agreed to send weekily initially... when I flew out to check progress in Feb, the block wasnt completed even though I was told it was finished in Oct of 2011! Pistons were NOT ceramic coated as on invoice-be careful of what you pay for and make sure with photos to see what is done at various stages if you are a long distance away (me 2000 miles).whatever you do, get a WELL documented contract listing what will be done, costs, time frame etc..otherwise your not left with much for a lawyer to work with as I found out...

GOOD LUCK!

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

The more I hear about GTM's work the more I hope they go under. Never said that about a business before in my life.

Pastmylife357

iTrader: (4)

Finally got settled back in MD, and starting to bring the build back to life. Since it's been a bit I'm sure somethings have changed so back to the research again and I'm leaning more towards having Hill's garage here in Baltimore do the work, lot of good things about them and it's closer to me so I can get there when I need to.

Ogie-I'll take your advice on that; ran into a descent amount of problems for other things like that so without even doing anything I'm making sure everything is on paper and signed and I'm getting copies of everything.

Zume

I don't know if you have purchased the parts yet but you list a Haltech Platinum.

SUPPORT IS KEY!!!

My advice, after 6 years of dabbling in this arena would be to -

1. Use Dynosty and Hal. If you have spent the money to get the Haltech box they will fully support you. IMO they are the only real deal "big" shop out there.

2. Use a local shop and be there pet..... hang around all the time and be their best friend.....trust and do what they say.

I will confirm what has been stated about GTM. I've been there.

THX

Pastmylife357

iTrader: (4)

Time to start contacting. Thanks for the advice.

Zume

BTW I bought the last Haltech Platinum off the shelf at Dynosty so apparently there are none left, however, they pop up on the classifieds all the time.

I plan on them tuning my car so I intend to buy all my parts there. This goes hand in hand with the SUPPORT thing. I consider paying full price for items from the folks working on one's car cheap insurance.

RE: ITNKICN ...HE LEARNED A FEW THINGS... THE HARD WAY!

Eno

iTrader: (1)

And I continue to learn- though my previous experiences have helped soften the blow!

Pastmylife357

iTrader: (4)

If you notice something is missing please let me know. Planning on getting the show started once I hear back from some shops.

GTM motorsports stage 2 tuner kit (upgraded GTX2867R .86A/R)
Fuel:
CJ motorsports stage 2 fuel kit
DW 850cc injectors
DW 300LPH Fuel PUmp
Exhaust:
Exotic Speed R1-T exhaust
Motordyne ART test pipes (given no CEL problems)
EMS:
Haltech Platinum
Haltech boost control solenoid
Transmission:
GMT Stage 3
Cooling:
B&M hi-tek trans cooler
Setrab oil cooler
ARC oil catch can
Samco radiator hoses
NGK 1step colder spark plugs
Suspension:
Nismo S-Tune suspension stabilizer kit
Other:
Billion racing power steering tank
Goodridge g-stop brake lines
Engine:
CP pistons 8.5:1 CR, 96mm bore w/rings
Carrillo Super Pro-A Rods
ACL main/rod/thrust bearings
ARP main/L19 head studs
ARP rod bolts
AMS pulley kit w/ belts
Motordyne 5/16" copper ISO thermal plenum spacer
WPC treatment to crankshaft
Port/Polish
Tomei 10.2 in/ex 264 Cams
Tomei Valvespring Kit

Engine work will be done when I decide to go beyond 500rwhp but still planned just in case I change my mind along the way.

Zume

WOW

remember its all about the shop.....!!!!

Did you sell an oil field?

Zume

if your serious...
http://www.fuelinjectorconnection.com

these are great and are lots less expensive.

+ would not bother... Motordyne ART test pipes (given no CEL problems)

Pastmylife357

iTrader: (4)

Seems I'd have to call to get the to pull up the correct ones since they aren't listed on the site, thanks for the info.

Is that personal opinion or back reasoning for not going with the MD ART TP's?

Zume

Fuel injectors are really pretty basic. They will make you what ever you want. I had them make me Bosch EV 14's @750cc flow and I think I only paid ~ $65 apiece. They say they are = or better then ID injectors.



The exhaust part is it just an opinion based upon Z1 in Carrolton, GA...give them a call. Ask for Rob.