Compression test:
(cold,wot,w/plugs,1-6:139,132,112,138,130,128)
Note #3 spark plug has oil/buildup

Also, there is evidence of fuel in the oil - maybe washing out cylinder 3. Might have a fuel injector issue. The motor is definitely going to require a rebuild with re-bore of cylinders, new matching pistons and new HG.

That's what Raj sent me about it.

 

^ I guess I should qualify that by saying that the motor runs fine and makes power. It's not as though that #3 cylinder wear is pressurizing the crankcase and blowing out the dipstick, for example. You could probably install it and forget it at 500 whp.

I am disappointed that there appears that something happened to cylinder 3 in the last couple of months, but I am also glad that if it is a spark/injector issue, we know about it so we can track it down. Otherwise the same thing might've occured in my new motor!

 

This is true, and I appreciate it too since It's a fixable problem and it's still saving me the whole shi-bang to build a whole motor; which is why I'm still buying it and going to replace what I need to.

Trying to get in touch with Hal to discuss it all and see whether it'll be easier to do the work there then ship or have it shipped and done here, but man is he busy lol

 

Rays INGS-TS06 (Gunmetal) 18x9.5+22 255/35 Front 18x10.5+15 285/35 Rear and Fujitsubo Legalis-R exhaust installed

 

^Thats a lot of tire gap, you plan on lowering at all?

 

^ That tire gap is even worse because the overall tire diameter with those 35 series tires is almost an inch smaller than stock OD. I have 19" wheels and run 255/35 up front (26.0") and 305/30 at the rear (26.3"). 40 series tires would have been a better choice for 18" wheels IMO.

 

The tires came with the rims when I bought them so they aren't being switched until I need new tires to save money. I'm working on getting a set of coilovers so the car will be dropped at least 1/2-1" up front and how ever far in the rear since it's a larger gap.

I was aware of it when they were put on but I wanted new wheels on instead of the stocks.

 

Tein Type Flex Coilovers w/EDFC installed last week. Pic is shortly after install. Will try to take a better pic or two when the weather holds out. Been so unpredictable lately with snow. Front is 25.5" and Rear is 26", I think it looks much better then previously

 

why the fock are we talking about wheel gap in the FI section?

 

I think he just wanted to point it out since it is in my build thread that I may have the Mods take down since this job thing ain't working out like I thought it was going to so the funding for the builds 2 main parts, turbo kit and motor is kind of out the window right now.

 

Sh** happens man. Don't stress it.
I just hate fitment discussions.

 

Yeah, I'm trying not too. I love the car so much and just want to see it completed in the vision I have for it.

So do I, I'm not big on the flush, tucked, slammed thing. Just want the car to handle well and I think the Teins that I had installed are doing a heck of a job.

 

If I were you I'd just move to a used vortech setup on stock block. Setup a nice long tube exhaust and just get the car running well. Maybe get some cams if you're feeling adventurous with building. Hell you could on the cheap build a block for a vortech. I'd re-use the stock pistons, new rings with a bit more gap, hone the block out, put in new factory bearings, up rev oil pump, get some eagle rods machined correctly, dynosty crank girdle and arp hardware, cams, you're facken done kid. Then when you want more power just get a 928 impeller upgrade. I'm willing to bet the stock pistons could hold 600whp. You'd have high compression and could rev out to like 8grand. Or further with the right cams.
Cams, just buy some HR cams $200 and valvesprings
Girdle, less than $400
Arp mains $200
Bearings $120 tops
Hone $100 tops
Eagle rods $400 bucks ish
Oem HG cheap, HR headstuds also cheap
Machining the rods shouldn't be too bad either.
Rev up pump $180
Easily under 2 grand. If you want, I have a spare block and I could do it all for you lol.

 

Once I get this job figured out and things back on track, I'm keeping my options open and slowing everything down a bit. Also I appreciate the offer, and if I have the money to do it I may just end up contacting you.

 

As long as I have a clean block to do it, I'd be happy to put it together with the local race shop doing the machining and clearances (would go to the big $ one, for simple stuff though their prices are pretty reasonable). I would charge basically what it would cost me. Shipping might be a pretty penny to MD from CA, but that's all up to you. I'd feel totally comfortable watching over an oem like rebuild. A race build though, I'm not touching and would point you straight to dynosty, mazworx, sp, vtr etc. Getting the bearings right on a VQ are very important for big power levels.

EDIT:
For the record though, regardless what way you go, try to save up and get pistons too. The stockers are probably fine for 500whp, but above that I'd be nervous.