05 5AT build(newb)
#121
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
(cold,wot,w/plugs,1-6:139,132,112,138,130,128)
Note #3 spark plug has oil/buildup
Also, there is evidence of fuel in the oil - maybe washing out cylinder 3. Might have a fuel injector issue. The motor is definitely going to require a rebuild with re-bore of cylinders, new matching pistons and new HG.
That's what Raj sent me about it.
#122
^ I guess I should qualify that by saying that the motor runs fine and makes power. It's not as though that #3 cylinder wear is pressurizing the crankcase and blowing out the dipstick, for example. You could probably install it and forget it at 500 whp.
I am disappointed that there appears that something happened to cylinder 3 in the last couple of months, but I am also glad that if it is a spark/injector issue, we know about it so we can track it down. Otherwise the same thing might've occured in my new motor!
I am disappointed that there appears that something happened to cylinder 3 in the last couple of months, but I am also glad that if it is a spark/injector issue, we know about it so we can track it down. Otherwise the same thing might've occured in my new motor!
#123
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
This is true, and I appreciate it too since It's a fixable problem and it's still saving me the whole shi-bang to build a whole motor; which is why I'm still buying it and going to replace what I need to.
Trying to get in touch with Hal to discuss it all and see whether it'll be easier to do the work there then ship or have it shipped and done here, but man is he busy lol
Trying to get in touch with Hal to discuss it all and see whether it'll be easier to do the work there then ship or have it shipped and done here, but man is he busy lol
#126
^ That tire gap is even worse because the overall tire diameter with those 35 series tires is almost an inch smaller than stock OD. I have 19" wheels and run 255/35 up front (26.0") and 305/30 at the rear (26.3"). 40 series tires would have been a better choice for 18" wheels IMO.
Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; 01-10-2013 at 04:28 PM.
#127
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
^ That tire gap is even worse because the overall tire diameter with those 35 series tires is almost an inch smaller than stock OD. I have 19" wheels and run 255/35 up front (26.0") and 305/30 at the rear (26.3"). 40 series tires would have been a better choice for 18" wheels IMO.
I was aware of it when they were put on but I wanted new wheels on instead of the stocks.
#128
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
Tein Type Flex Coilovers w/EDFC installed last week. Pic is shortly after install. Will try to take a better pic or two when the weather holds out. Been so unpredictable lately with snow. Front is 25.5" and Rear is 26", I think it looks much better then previously
Last edited by Pastmylife357; 02-07-2013 at 12:10 AM.
#130
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
I think he just wanted to point it out since it is in my build thread that I may have the Mods take down since this job thing ain't working out like I thought it was going to so the funding for the builds 2 main parts, turbo kit and motor is kind of out the window right now.
#131
I think he just wanted to point it out since it is in my build thread that I may have the Mods take down since this job thing ain't working out like I thought it was going to so the funding for the builds 2 main parts, turbo kit and motor is kind of out the window right now.
I just hate fitment discussions.
#132
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
Yeah, I'm trying not too. I love the car so much and just want to see it completed in the vision I have for it.
So do I, I'm not big on the flush, tucked, slammed thing. Just want the car to handle well and I think the Teins that I had installed are doing a heck of a job.
So do I, I'm not big on the flush, tucked, slammed thing. Just want the car to handle well and I think the Teins that I had installed are doing a heck of a job.
#133
Yeah, I'm trying not too. I love the car so much and just want to see it completed in the vision I have for it.
So do I, I'm not big on the flush, tucked, slammed thing. Just want the car to handle well and I think the Teins that I had installed are doing a heck of a job.
So do I, I'm not big on the flush, tucked, slammed thing. Just want the car to handle well and I think the Teins that I had installed are doing a heck of a job.
Cams, just buy some HR cams $200 and valvesprings
Girdle, less than $400
Arp mains $200
Bearings $120 tops
Hone $100 tops
Eagle rods $400 bucks ish
Oem HG cheap, HR headstuds also cheap
Machining the rods shouldn't be too bad either.
Rev up pump $180
Easily under 2 grand. If you want, I have a spare block and I could do it all for you lol.
#134
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD
If I were you I'd just move to a used vortech setup on stock block. Setup a nice long tube exhaust and just get the car running well. Maybe get some cams if you're feeling adventurous with building. Hell you could on the cheap build a block for a vortech. I'd re-use the stock pistons, new rings with a bit more gap, hone the block out, put in new factory bearings, up rev oil pump, get some eagle rods machined correctly, dynosty crank girdle and arp hardware, cams, you're facken done kid. Then when you want more power just get a 928 impeller upgrade. I'm willing to bet the stock pistons could hold 600whp. You'd have high compression and could rev out to like 8grand. Or further with the right cams.
Cams, just buy some HR cams $200 and valvesprings
Girdle, less than $400
Arp mains $200
Bearings $120 tops
Hone $100 tops
Eagle rods $400 bucks ish
Oem HG cheap, HR headstuds also cheap
Machining the rods shouldn't be too bad either.
Rev up pump $180
Easily under 2 grand. If you want, I have a spare block and I could do it all for you lol.
Cams, just buy some HR cams $200 and valvesprings
Girdle, less than $400
Arp mains $200
Bearings $120 tops
Hone $100 tops
Eagle rods $400 bucks ish
Oem HG cheap, HR headstuds also cheap
Machining the rods shouldn't be too bad either.
Rev up pump $180
Easily under 2 grand. If you want, I have a spare block and I could do it all for you lol.
#135
EDIT:
For the record though, regardless what way you go, try to save up and get pistons too. The stockers are probably fine for 500whp, but above that I'd be nervous.
Last edited by Resmarted; 02-13-2013 at 11:15 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
350Z_Al
Exterior & Interior
133
10-29-2020 07:44 PM
Tochigi_236
Feedback & Suggestions for Our Forum
8
09-27-2015 03:40 PM