PF Supercars retuned and outcome :)
05-01-2012, 11:57 AM
#1
PF Supercars retuned and outcome :)
So i've been very dormant here lately in terms of posting much, primarily because college owns me right now and I have been working on the car in all my free time.
I want to give a before and after for people to see the difference between the turbo upgrades and fueling. Responsive, clean and smooth throughout.
In 2010-2011 winter season I swapped out my stock block and swapped in my built motor, nothing more then the fact that I wanted to turn up the boost.
A quick overview of the parts are as follows that ran in the car for the 2011 year:
Carillo Rods
CP +.20 bore pistons 8.5:1 compression
Clevite bearings
ARP L19’s
ARP Mains
Brian Crower Stg. 3 Cams w/ buckets, springs, and retainers
OEM valve’s and valve seals
HKS Head gasket
Carbonetics Triple disc clutch
Setrab Oil Cooler
Pro-Efi 128
Greddy Turbo Ti-c dual exhaust
Long story short the car ran great and made 603whp 589wtq on pump and 682whp 655wtq on MS109. The graphs are below for viewing.
Towards the end of the 2011 season, I noticed that I had cracked my passenger side turbo manifold. In the same sense, I was having a huge issue with the oil pressure dropping and the timing chain hitting the inside front timing cover. So I decided that I was going to pull the motor to replace both manifolds, and while the motor is out take everything apart to make sure the rest was ok. In doing so I noticed that I was having some sort of leak down issue with the intake cam sprockets where oil would drain out over time and I ventured to relate that to my terrible timing chain sound. So I purchased a new set of Intake cam sprockets from Nissan and a rev-up oil pump to address the entire situation.
While the motor was out, I also looked at my turbos, and holy batman did I have a tremendous amount of shaft play. I thought my 18g’s were junked. I called up Kirk from Boost Lab in Florida and got to discussing my different options. We ended up with a 1.5mm larger billet compressor wheel, a new exhaust housing on one turbo and a new compressor housing on the other. Both turbos got upgraded thrust bearing and new heat shields, as well as new exhaust turbines and machined housings. I thought I had received brand new turbos when they came back.
So for the 2011-2012 year, all above parts remained the same in addition to the following:
Rev-up oil pump
New OEM intake CAM sprockets
New ceramic coated greddy turbo manifolds
HKS SSQV BOV
Work Emotion Cr-Ultimate wheels
Upgraded td05-18g turbos
This time around the car made 606whp 579wtq on pump and 759whp 688wtq on Q16, where we ran out of turbo on the turbine side. Ray took a tremendous amount of time to work on all my drivability as well, which the car feels like it is a stock car again almost identically with the exception of WOT and my Clutch. My brother and I swap Z’s and they drive identically now.
In addition to all the above work, I cut my wiring harness out of my car for the Pro-Efi and sent it back to Jason to have him inspect to make sure there wasn’t something wrong with my harness for why my CAN display continues to lose connection. Everything ended up being fine, but since my display was out, they updated the firmware in the display. My Pro-Efi CAN Display still loses connection, but only when the car has the CAN Bus hooked up. I am adding a switch to be able to toggle the display on and off, but I would not give up my Traction control or throttle control by any means to have the display not lose connection. The TC is absolutely one of the best parts of the Pro-Efi system, along with the i-boost settings to change on the fly. Unfortunately there is no resolution to fixing the display at the moment, other then letting the stock ecu control the CAN BUS, because there is too much going on in the CAN system therefore dropping the connection.
All in all, I am extremely happy with the way it turned out.
The graphs are below for viewing.
I want to give a before and after for people to see the difference between the turbo upgrades and fueling. Responsive, clean and smooth throughout.
In 2010-2011 winter season I swapped out my stock block and swapped in my built motor, nothing more then the fact that I wanted to turn up the boost.
A quick overview of the parts are as follows that ran in the car for the 2011 year:
Carillo Rods
CP +.20 bore pistons 8.5:1 compression
Clevite bearings
ARP L19’s
ARP Mains
Brian Crower Stg. 3 Cams w/ buckets, springs, and retainers
OEM valve’s and valve seals
HKS Head gasket
Carbonetics Triple disc clutch
Setrab Oil Cooler
Pro-Efi 128
Greddy Turbo Ti-c dual exhaust
Long story short the car ran great and made 603whp 589wtq on pump and 682whp 655wtq on MS109. The graphs are below for viewing.
Towards the end of the 2011 season, I noticed that I had cracked my passenger side turbo manifold. In the same sense, I was having a huge issue with the oil pressure dropping and the timing chain hitting the inside front timing cover. So I decided that I was going to pull the motor to replace both manifolds, and while the motor is out take everything apart to make sure the rest was ok. In doing so I noticed that I was having some sort of leak down issue with the intake cam sprockets where oil would drain out over time and I ventured to relate that to my terrible timing chain sound. So I purchased a new set of Intake cam sprockets from Nissan and a rev-up oil pump to address the entire situation.
While the motor was out, I also looked at my turbos, and holy batman did I have a tremendous amount of shaft play. I thought my 18g’s were junked. I called up Kirk from Boost Lab in Florida and got to discussing my different options. We ended up with a 1.5mm larger billet compressor wheel, a new exhaust housing on one turbo and a new compressor housing on the other. Both turbos got upgraded thrust bearing and new heat shields, as well as new exhaust turbines and machined housings. I thought I had received brand new turbos when they came back.
So for the 2011-2012 year, all above parts remained the same in addition to the following:
Rev-up oil pump
New OEM intake CAM sprockets
New ceramic coated greddy turbo manifolds
HKS SSQV BOV
Work Emotion Cr-Ultimate wheels
Upgraded td05-18g turbos
This time around the car made 606whp 579wtq on pump and 759whp 688wtq on Q16, where we ran out of turbo on the turbine side. Ray took a tremendous amount of time to work on all my drivability as well, which the car feels like it is a stock car again almost identically with the exception of WOT and my Clutch. My brother and I swap Z’s and they drive identically now.
In addition to all the above work, I cut my wiring harness out of my car for the Pro-Efi and sent it back to Jason to have him inspect to make sure there wasn’t something wrong with my harness for why my CAN display continues to lose connection. Everything ended up being fine, but since my display was out, they updated the firmware in the display. My Pro-Efi CAN Display still loses connection, but only when the car has the CAN Bus hooked up. I am adding a switch to be able to toggle the display on and off, but I would not give up my Traction control or throttle control by any means to have the display not lose connection. The TC is absolutely one of the best parts of the Pro-Efi system, along with the i-boost settings to change on the fly. Unfortunately there is no resolution to fixing the display at the moment, other then letting the stock ecu control the CAN BUS, because there is too much going on in the CAN system therefore dropping the connection.
All in all, I am extremely happy with the way it turned out.
The graphs are below for viewing.
Last edited by psychoballistic; 05-01-2012 at 01:18 PM.
05-01-2012, 01:14 PM
#2
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Nice write up and great power!
thanks for sharing, she's a beast for sure, you should post some pics of it especially with your newest "accessories" you got recently!
thanks for sharing, she's a beast for sure, you should post some pics of it especially with your newest "accessories" you got recently!
05-01-2012, 01:23 PM
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great power! although with bc3 cams i figured your car would continue to make power to redline, or at least not lose any. thoughts on why you drop ~50hp after 6.5k? tuning for safety?
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05-01-2012, 01:45 PM
#9
Thanks Bert... Yours was stroked too correct? Mind me asking what displacement you went to? In the process of building another one and thinking of going the stroker route on this one for a different purpose.
Ninja edit, miss your z?
Ninja edit, miss your z?
Last edited by psychoballistic; 05-01-2012 at 01:48 PM.
or miss it as in i havent driven it in awhile 
???
05-01-2012, 06:04 PM
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05-01-2012, 06:12 PM
#16
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are you using the ProEFI to switch between pump gas and Q16 on the fly? I just had my flex fuel installed and going back soon to get retuned.
Last edited by IslandZavage; 05-01-2012 at 06:13 PM.
05-01-2012, 06:28 PM
#17
Sometimes if there is a little more pump then there should be I run the Q16 still but it runs richer since the Q16 is heavily oxygenated. You would have to do something terribly wrong IMO to have a serious problem with Q16. I also run a few degrees less on the timing just in case to be safe instead of right to the edge. Knock on wood, it's been good to me.
I'm interested in going the flex fuel sensor route, but the adaptive fueling from my understanding is no longer active, it's now based on a high and low threshold parameters, but I don't know enough about that setup to be able to speak truth to it. I know we replace them in the mail trucks all the time, and they are the same thing rebadged as pro-efi, so that definitely adds to my skepticism. How you like your flex fuel sensor? Have you used it much by chance?
