My daughter just bought 2005 350Z. About 131,000.

The clutch was pedal was sticking halfway up when the car was warm. She also said a couple times at stoplights that after being in neutral, that she could not get it to go into gear, and had to turn the car off and wait several minutes, then it was OK again. A friend or hers replaced the slave and adjusted the pedal but it's still sticking and the engagement point now seems way too low, (too close to the floor) and the throw just seems really short. The pedal is also now sticking halfway up even when the car is cold.

I am going to try to re-bleed the system as I believe her friend may have gotten some air into it and re-adjust the pedal but if that does not help would next replace the master cylinder and OEM line rubber line with braided/heat shielded.

I am wondering if anyone has tried the SIKKY line here to delete the clutch damper and if so, what differences did you notice? What does the clutch damper actually do and could it be the cause of some of the clutch issues?

SIKKY Clutch damper delete

Thanks!

 

Diagnose the issue.
Hold pedal. Check under car. If slave slowly comes back the clutch master cylinder is leaking.
Sounds like you have air in the line. A new line will not fix this

 

Thanks for the response!

100% I plan to do a thorough re-bleed regardless.

When you say "if the slave slowly comes back" do you mean if it returns to the starting position even though the clutch pedal is still depressed?

In addition, I was curious what the difference may be if the damper were deleted from the system. If I find I need to replace the Master, it'd make sense to do the SIKKY line at the same time if that were the route I decided to go.

 

Yes, if you see the clutch fork moving back to starting position while still holding the clutch pedal down, then you got air in the system or a serious leak.

Bleeding the clutch hydraulics takes a lot of time, the FSM procedure is very specific about pumping the pedal 5x, holding, then cracking bleeder while holding pedal down. Follow up by closing the bleeder before releasing the pedal. This completes a single bleed cycle. You need to repeat this process A LOT if you replace the clutch master cylinder.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Thank You.

Will bleed very thoroughly and go from there. Will report back.

About how many ounces of fluid does the system hold?

 

I have the sikky damper delete, didn't feel anything different in terms of the weight of the clutch, but you get a little bit better "feel" through the pedal. It does make it a **** ton easier to bleed. If you get the sikky line, check the size of the banjo bolts they send, they sent me the wrong ones and created a huge headache until the realization (still recommend it, just really annoying). The sikky line replaces both the hardline from the master cylinder AND the rubber line that connects from the hard line to the slave cylinder.
Also a heads up, if you've adjusted the pedal and lengthened the rod too far, it can block the fluid loop within the cylinder during the bleeding process, making it nearly impossible to bleed correctly. The FSM has a procedure for setting the correct length, then you shouldn't have to deviate from that too far in your adjustments. If you do need to, it could be a sign of other issues like the master cylinder, slave or others.