except a turbo grenading costs you at least 1k for JUST the replacement engine, have you not looked at the replacement costs of engines? sure you will have less chance of frying the engine from the oil system but there is still rich detonation from the turbo going and the computer still sending fuel not reacting fast enough, and theres also the bits its going to injest through the intake. you might seem to think your little seperate oil system might save you but congrats your not gods gift to speed freaks, its been done with the same attitude as you and still fryed engines. and you REALLY need to learn people are getting charged 8k for TWIN turbo kits yah know two of those things. my turbo kit only cost me 7k WITH a custom exhuast, fuel swirl pot, AND oil catch can, kit alone cost only about 5500 brand new. and the whole garret internals is false, your changing out the bearings, shaft and wheels? exactly considering the parts that are always ****ed up are the shaft or housing machining which you are not replacing your not doing a damn thing to save the turbo. congrats you ran ONE for 50k miles, probably babying it, ive watched(either in person or through videos) HUNDREDS blow within 5k miles or 5 trips down the strip always from improper machining that you cannot fix.

by the way since you OBVIOUSLY know everything on this planet the president called and needs your help, also i think you will fit right in with the "17 years olds owning z" thread or whatever the **** it was called.

 

I love getting owned by noobs...

$2,000-$2,500 for an entire setup and tuning is a pipe dream in less it is a POS. Even if you are making it by yourself.

 

 

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ust-watch.html

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...zs-debate.html

 

rude come on thats perfectly acceptable he wont get hurt unless he touchs both side of the outlet, kid just lives on the edge

lol

 

Ummmm

 

ebay = cheaping out

I have 2 friends that tried ebay turbos on their cars. The one failed on the dyno with the impeller nut coming off and the impeller welded itself to the housing. I dont remember exactly what happened to the other but it failed not long after install.

 

I got 7k miles on my eBay hx40, and made 415whp @ 9 psi. But I always had oil in the IC piping and intake

 

Holsets are decent turbos, im talking about the no name knock off turbos.

 

Fast | Reliable | Cheap

Pick Two.

 

You CAN do a turbo set-up on a 350z for $2500 or less. Though I'm going with the UTEC for tuning.
Xslang I'm all for you, because I'm doing the same thing(everything purchased), but waiting to post until I install.

 

Im with you,

im probably going to keep my eyes open for a used HX40, ive been looking at the compressor maps and it looks quite a bit better than a GT35.. and they run 20-30 psi all day long stock xD

My question is how do we rid the internally wastegated configuration? Swap the turbine housing??

 

You would weld the flapper shut.

 

much thanks!

 

Yes you weld the flapper , I have a hx40 I'm not using since i went with 6766, also got a h1c , pick which one you want lol I'll let it go cheap. I also have an ebay replica of hx40 but that's going to be made into a lamp

 

Hahahhaha PM me about the actual HOLSET its the 6 blade not the 8 blade compressor right? 6 > 8

 

did anyone answer the oil cooler question? I didn't feel like reading through all the pages of arguing.

A rear mount turbo with separate oil tank will need a cooler for sure. If not the the oil will heat up and you will just be recirculating hot oil. Even if the turbo is under the car it puts off an extreme amount of heat. Mine is a midmount and on the dyno it still was glowing during full boost pulls.

 

100% agree, I will be running an inline oil cooler..

you also have to think that while on the dyno your not getting that massive amount of airflow that if you were driving to


I will be running 2 sts oil pumps 1 feed 1 return and having a oil cooler inline..


QUESTION though!

http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/...af-flange.html

The uprev 70mm maf flange will fit the factory MAF and allow me to weld it into my intercooler piping correct?

ALSO

should I mount the BOV post or PRE MAF?

and approx how far from the TB's should I mount the MAF's?

much thanks

xslangx

 

we had a fan directly on the turbo. No amount of air across a 1200* turbo will do any significant cooling.

mount the BOV pre-maf and as far away as possible to help reduce turbulence.

for maf mounting from the TB i'm not sure it matters how close or far it is. Just make sure the maf is on a long straight portion of piping so the air is stabilized by the time it his the maf sensor. Most are about 6-12" from the throttle body.

 

If you can't figure out where to mount the BOV or that you need to weld up the flap to convert from internal to external gate, you should not be doing this setup IMHO.

Next, you're going to need some kind of oil pressure bypass or regulator. Most guys with standalone turbo oil systems make their own. Without a pressure regulator you are going to blow the seal on a shitty turbo, or face under oiling the turbo and ruining it worse. Sh*tty cheap turbos have the biggest issues with oiling, sometimes they need extra parts to work right, most of the time the knock off turbos will fail regardless of how you set them up. That is unless you are talking about holsets, master powers, or entry level precisions... Those are all great turbos. But ebay junk fails 90% of the time, usually because they are never balanced.

@Binder, I'm pretty sure if you run a 4 quart tank or larger you don't really need a cooler. At least I'll probably run 4-5 quarts with some fins on the tank and call it a day with the EXA pump (Big difference. If you're running sh*t pumps you're gonna have to use a cooler, preferably with a thermostat AND pressure bypass) on a standalone turbo oil system. You could easily run the thermostat oil cooler off the oil filter which you should use if you're making a standalone oil system.