VQ35HR Custom Rear Mount Turbo
#61
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except a turbo grenading costs you at least 1k for JUST the replacement engine, have you not looked at the replacement costs of engines? sure you will have less chance of frying the engine from the oil system but there is still rich detonation from the turbo going and the computer still sending fuel not reacting fast enough, and theres also the bits its going to injest through the intake. you might seem to think your little seperate oil system might save you but congrats your not gods gift to speed freaks, its been done with the same attitude as you and still fryed engines. and you REALLY need to learn people are getting charged 8k for TWIN turbo kits yah know two of those things. my turbo kit only cost me 7k WITH a custom exhuast, fuel swirl pot, AND oil catch can, kit alone cost only about 5500 brand new. and the whole garret internals is false, your changing out the bearings, shaft and wheels? exactly considering the parts that are always ****ed up are the shaft or housing machining which you are not replacing your not doing a damn thing to save the turbo. congrats you ran ONE for 50k miles, probably babying it, ive watched(either in person or through videos) HUNDREDS blow within 5k miles or 5 trips down the strip always from improper machining that you cannot fix.
by the way since you OBVIOUSLY know everything on this planet the president called and needs your help, also i think you will fit right in with the "17 years olds owning z" thread or whatever the **** it was called.
by the way since you OBVIOUSLY know everything on this planet the president called and needs your help, also i think you will fit right in with the "17 years olds owning z" thread or whatever the **** it was called.
What exactly am i "Cheaping out on?"
A gt35 knock off turbo that worst case scenario will go bad in 5000 miles? Oh boy, engine damage imminent. No wonder you guys get charged 8000$ for a turbo kit hahaha
The only thing low quality in this kit is the turbo, which will be rebuilt with garret internals anyways as I always do with my china turbos.
Ive ran them for over 60k miles on a garret rebuild on my 57 and 50 trim with no issues.
Dont be ignorant, this will be a solid kit, nothing is getting cheaped on its merely custom and requires a little head scratching other than your blatently overpriced "BOLT ON" yea!! let me pay 4000 extra for having someone already think for me ...
A gt35 knock off turbo that worst case scenario will go bad in 5000 miles? Oh boy, engine damage imminent. No wonder you guys get charged 8000$ for a turbo kit hahaha
The only thing low quality in this kit is the turbo, which will be rebuilt with garret internals anyways as I always do with my china turbos.
Ive ran them for over 60k miles on a garret rebuild on my 57 and 50 trim with no issues.
Dont be ignorant, this will be a solid kit, nothing is getting cheaped on its merely custom and requires a little head scratching other than your blatently overpriced "BOLT ON" yea!! let me pay 4000 extra for having someone already think for me ...
#63
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#64
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https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ust-watch.html
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...zs-debate.html
Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; 05-13-2012 at 06:34 PM.
#67
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ebay = cheaping out
I have 2 friends that tried ebay turbos on their cars. The one failed on the dyno with the impeller nut coming off and the impeller welded itself to the housing. I dont remember exactly what happened to the other but it failed not long after install.
I have 2 friends that tried ebay turbos on their cars. The one failed on the dyno with the impeller nut coming off and the impeller welded itself to the housing. I dont remember exactly what happened to the other but it failed not long after install.
#72
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im probably going to keep my eyes open for a used HX40, ive been looking at the compressor maps and it looks quite a bit better than a GT35.. and they run 20-30 psi all day long stock xD
My question is how do we rid the internally wastegated configuration? Swap the turbine housing??
#75
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Yes you weld the flapper , I have a hx40 I'm not using since i went with 6766, also got a h1c , pick which one you want lol I'll let it go cheap. I also have an ebay replica of hx40 but that's going to be made into a lamp
#76
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Hahahhaha PM me about the actual HOLSET its the 6 blade not the 8 blade compressor right? 6 > 8
#77
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did anyone answer the oil cooler question? I didn't feel like reading through all the pages of arguing.
A rear mount turbo with separate oil tank will need a cooler for sure. If not the the oil will heat up and you will just be recirculating hot oil. Even if the turbo is under the car it puts off an extreme amount of heat. Mine is a midmount and on the dyno it still was glowing during full boost pulls.
A rear mount turbo with separate oil tank will need a cooler for sure. If not the the oil will heat up and you will just be recirculating hot oil. Even if the turbo is under the car it puts off an extreme amount of heat. Mine is a midmount and on the dyno it still was glowing during full boost pulls.
#78
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Thread Starter
did anyone answer the oil cooler question? I didn't feel like reading through all the pages of arguing.
A rear mount turbo with separate oil tank will need a cooler for sure. If not the the oil will heat up and you will just be recirculating hot oil. Even if the turbo is under the car it puts off an extreme amount of heat. Mine is a midmount and on the dyno it still was glowing during full boost pulls.
A rear mount turbo with separate oil tank will need a cooler for sure. If not the the oil will heat up and you will just be recirculating hot oil. Even if the turbo is under the car it puts off an extreme amount of heat. Mine is a midmount and on the dyno it still was glowing during full boost pulls.
100% agree, I will be running an inline oil cooler..
you also have to think that while on the dyno your not getting that massive amount of airflow that if you were driving to
I will be running 2 sts oil pumps 1 feed 1 return and having a oil cooler inline..
QUESTION though!
http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/...af-flange.html
The uprev 70mm maf flange will fit the factory MAF and allow me to weld it into my intercooler piping correct?
ALSO
should I mount the BOV post or PRE MAF?
and approx how far from the TB's should I mount the MAF's?
much thanks
xslangx
#79
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100% agree, I will be running an inline oil cooler..
you also have to think that while on the dyno your not getting that massive amount of airflow that if you were driving to
I will be running 2 sts oil pumps 1 feed 1 return and having a oil cooler inline..
QUESTION though!
http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/...af-flange.html
The uprev 70mm maf flange will fit the factory MAF and allow me to weld it into my intercooler piping correct?
ALSO
should I mount the BOV post or PRE MAF?
and approx how far from the TB's should I mount the MAF's?
much thanks
xslangx
you also have to think that while on the dyno your not getting that massive amount of airflow that if you were driving to
I will be running 2 sts oil pumps 1 feed 1 return and having a oil cooler inline..
QUESTION though!
http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/...af-flange.html
The uprev 70mm maf flange will fit the factory MAF and allow me to weld it into my intercooler piping correct?
ALSO
should I mount the BOV post or PRE MAF?
and approx how far from the TB's should I mount the MAF's?
much thanks
xslangx
mount the BOV pre-maf and as far away as possible to help reduce turbulence.
for maf mounting from the TB i'm not sure it matters how close or far it is. Just make sure the maf is on a long straight portion of piping so the air is stabilized by the time it his the maf sensor. Most are about 6-12" from the throttle body.
#80
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100% agree, I will be running an inline oil cooler..
you also have to think that while on the dyno your not getting that massive amount of airflow that if you were driving to
I will be running 2 sts oil pumps 1 feed 1 return and having a oil cooler inline..
QUESTION though!
http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/...af-flange.html
The uprev 70mm maf flange will fit the factory MAF and allow me to weld it into my intercooler piping correct?
ALSO
should I mount the BOV post or PRE MAF?
and approx how far from the TB's should I mount the MAF's?
much thanks
xslangx
you also have to think that while on the dyno your not getting that massive amount of airflow that if you were driving to
I will be running 2 sts oil pumps 1 feed 1 return and having a oil cooler inline..
QUESTION though!
http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/...af-flange.html
The uprev 70mm maf flange will fit the factory MAF and allow me to weld it into my intercooler piping correct?
ALSO
should I mount the BOV post or PRE MAF?
and approx how far from the TB's should I mount the MAF's?
much thanks
xslangx
Next, you're going to need some kind of oil pressure bypass or regulator. Most guys with standalone turbo oil systems make their own. Without a pressure regulator you are going to blow the seal on a shitty turbo, or face under oiling the turbo and ruining it worse. Sh*tty cheap turbos have the biggest issues with oiling, sometimes they need extra parts to work right, most of the time the knock off turbos will fail regardless of how you set them up. That is unless you are talking about holsets, master powers, or entry level precisions... Those are all great turbos. But ebay junk fails 90% of the time, usually because they are never balanced.
@Binder, I'm pretty sure if you run a 4 quart tank or larger you don't really need a cooler. At least I'll probably run 4-5 quarts with some fins on the tank and call it a day with the EXA pump (Big difference. If you're running sh*t pumps you're gonna have to use a cooler, preferably with a thermostat AND pressure bypass) on a standalone turbo oil system. You could easily run the thermostat oil cooler off the oil filter which you should use if you're making a standalone oil system.