My 03 Z has a Greddy twin turbo kit with all stock internals and was dyno'd at 418 whp. I'd like to turn the boost up a little but don't wanna over do it. Would you guys suggest leaving it like it is or can I crank it up some? And if so, what's the most whp I can SAFELY put down? Thanks!

 

Seems like builds around the net report reliable daily driving numbers....Heard like 400whp for VQ35DE and 450whp to VQ35De Rev up...500Whp VQ35HR and like 550whp VQ37VHR...after that most people builds go futher into fortified bottom ends and bullet proof tranny...and then the HR tt and VHR tt setupsor can hold 1000the whp...but probably very unreliable....this is just my observation nothing but gossip really..lol

 

Do not up the boost keep it there and enjoy it. The rule of thumb for the de is 400rwhp.

 

Stock internals limit for tq and hp numbers with the DE are generally both considered around 400 (in the circles of conversation that I've had with other folks). I mention torque because if you're making power lower in the power band, torque is something that needs to be considered instead of hp alone.

Obviously, a good tune and a properly maintained vehicle play into what number is practical on a given car… and whether your car was made on a Wednesday when everyone was focused on their work, or was made at the end of the day on a Friday when they just wanted to get out of there.

 

leave it where it is, it is hard to predict how much boost will blow any 350z engine..... but you will always want more boost so good luck holding back

lol this is what my 65 year old dad says, with the amount of robots that goes into insuring quality control i seriously doubt this is a issue anymore, he also tells me when i have a weird metal on metal rattle that i probably have a nut tied to a string behind one of my panels

 

$20. Original questions. Post an original question and I will send you $20.

 

Hahaha 😭

 

$100. New Phrases. Post something other than your regular phrases that are old and annoying now and I will send you $100.

 

I dont help anyone who cant help themselves. Or anyone named Logan, thats a gay **** fluffer name.

 

lols

 

The torque number is what you wanna look at when your deciding on what the stock internals can handle. anywhere 420+ wtq you should be worried. This is when the rods will start to bend. I've heard of a guy making 500whp and 400wtq on the stock block with a vortech kit. idk how long it lasted though.

 

torque is actually not as deadly as horsepower can be when talking about maxing out a stock block. torque is the movement around an axis, and its strongest point is a left to right motion. in the Z the rods will not bend before the piston breaks. Horsepower is the up to down portion of the axis that will shatter the piston. every time the piston slams down it has to take the beating. high the foot pound of pressure higher the impact.

 

what?

You may want to check out the number of bent rods in the FI section.

 

quality control is still done by humans, vehicles roll off the line onto alignment rack, then are taken to dyno to get flogged really quick. after that they go to rain test to make sure no seals are leaking, then final QC which is all done by humans and includes road test. worked at a assembly plant, was my last job before the army.

 

not just check the numbers b ut completely read what torque and horsepower are............. you are 100% wrong. torque IS a twisting force, however it is an instant figure. horsepower is nothing more then torque over time. that is why on every single dyno ever produced torque and horsepower intersect at 5252, thats where the speed the piston is moving matchs the force generated from torque.

what breaks things is a combination of speed the piston is moving and the torque not one or the other. technically horsepower dosnt even exist, its not real simply a calculation humans made up to be able to see the amount of work that is able to be done by speed AND torque combined its not really a measurement of any sort, the things that are used in the calculation are the measurements. also there is no sudden impact on ignition, it is a smooth expanding and controlled flame front. sudden expansion and explosions are bad and are what we call detonation and preignition.

400 ft lbs of torque at 3000 rpms is much safer then 400 ft lbs of force at say 18000 rpms, the latter will bend or snap anything less then pauter or carillo's the former is fine even on stock rods. thats why horsepower is a good indicator for when stuff breaks since it takes both speed and torque into account and peak horsepower will typically show when peak forces are being endured by the engine.

 

Generally, it's 400whp below or at 8psi max.

Based on all the FI threads I've read here.

I know a few guys personally who got their Z's boosted on stock internals and they held up just fine.

 

Like I said, you need to watch both hp & tq.

You need to worry about going over peak tq down low while you may not yet be hitting your peak hp levels. You need to worry about peak hp up high in the RPMs while tq will not be hitting its peak levels. You need to watch both depending on when your power comes on.

For example, if I throw a 150 shot of nitrous into the engine at 2500 RPMs, my HP is not going to be over 400hp, but my torque is sure going to be way over 400ft-lbs - and BOOM is likely.

For another example, if I have a big turbo that doesn't spool up until 5000 RPMs, my peak torque on my graph may never go over 350ft-lbs of torque, but my peak HP may be way over 400hp - and BOOM.

You have to be aware of both numbers and you need to understand your particular FI implementation and how it interacts with your car -OR- you need to work with a proven pro tuner/shop and let them worry about that stuff for you.

 

Turn it on up and up and let us know what happens to the stockies.

 

Next time you want to post... Don't.

 

is this a joke???? Have you ever taken an engineering physics class? Torque is related to the mass and angular acceleration of the components, meaning that it is applying stress in all directions, not just the side to side motion you speak of.

More specifically, it is angular velocity x moment of inertia (which is a direct result of the component's mass and distance from center of rotation). Regardless, its applied force in any direction on the components on the engine will be directly proportional to its angular velocity (RPM) since the mass and radius of the components do not change. Therefore, given a relatively constant angular velocity, the force applied to the various components will be equal in all directions.