What are buying to fulfill the "driving" bug?

 

Hi all,
My 04 G35 coupe with stock engine lasted 21k miles under 7 lbs of boost, running 387rhp from 2004-last month. She gave up on me at 30mph zone, 1/2 mile from my house. I was leaving to work. I was on the 5 th gear when this happened. Yes, I do have a small window on my bottom end, the upper oil pan area. Everything was in order when she gave up, oil pressure, air fuel ratio, etc... I don't think I was boosting since I was approaching the traffic stop. Anyways, I knew this would happen one day since I jumped into FI world :-). I have had a stage 3 long block from IPP sitting at the shop since 09-11. It took my brother/mechanic 3 weeks to install my built long block in my G. It's still a breaking in process. FI isn't cheap. Boosting is addictive ( very addictive). For those young men on a budget, please choose another route. Since 03-today, I have owned 4 Gs and 1 350z. 4 out of 5 were turboed. 3 out of 4 built longblock (none has failed yet). Every engine has its limitation. Ned

 

Im still keeping the Z. Just time to step up to a GT-R. No longer engaged....35k wedding called off. So im spending money on myself. Lol.

 

^^sounds like a midlife crisis to me

 

I didn't believe it at first. But this seems to be the issue of many, even myself.

Better than a Vette in my opinion. Something different. WAY too many in my area especially. ZR1s are the only Vette you don't see on a daily.

 

I guess there is a fourth option on the table which would be to put a stock block back in it and detune. Thanks for the idea, I will take that one into consideration. I do have a 34 row oil cooler, just FYI... I will update the first post.

 

LS is very appealing to me but I am concerned mainly about a few things. I know the car is probably not a big resell-able car but it seems as though a domestic motor in a Nissan car would deter people from buying it at all if I ever decided to let it go and with crazy wiring, etc. troubleshooting issues could be a problem. Also, I have not seen an HR car (2007-2008) with the swap done. All of the info on the sikky website is for 2003-2006 cars.

There also seems to be no way to use the stock instrument cluster (tachometer) with this conversion. Am I wrong? On the other hand, the shop here locally specializes in LS motors especially Turbo LS motors.

 

I take your advice serious. And that is what is causing me to doubt building an HR. The problem is, WTF do I do with this car sitting here? I want a powerful, fast car. I could completely part it out including the chassis but at some point I will want to get back in the game.

IS ANYONE CAPABLE OF BUILDING AN HR where I wouldn't be second guessing myself everytime I gas it?

 

With an HR motor I'd take DJ's advice. Detune it slightly and cross your fingers. Don't let any shop talk you into building it.

 

Stories like this encourage me. I know that there are many boosted Zs running around without issue. I think your power level is within a safe limit. I knew I was taking a chance. My car was tuned by Z1 Motorsports and he did a fine job. This mishap is not the fault of the tuner. I asked him to take the power level of to 11.8psi and 539.9whp on a Dynojet. If I had kept it at <450whp would it have happened? Who knows. It is a risk we take. Btw, this isn't completely unexpected to me. I knew this could happen at some point. Just am bummed out about it and laying out directions so i can progress to the next step.

 

I know. So you blew a built block, what is the current status of your car?

 

You're right except mid 30's!!! I've lived a hard life.

 

Bigcloud-sorry to hear man. Better now than later After marriage though.

 

No biggie man. You win some and lose some. I just need to sell this ring. OP sorry for your blown motor. Hope you get back on the road soon.

 

I'm looking for an engagement ring. PM me specs lol

 

Same swap parts apply (DE or HR) whether Sikky, Henson, etc.

Franz go the stock tach to work for Cass's build. So it's possible, just not practical when you consider the cost of making it work - versus just replacing the OEM tach with the speed hut tach that fits in the OEM spot.

 

Will do!!

 

sorry to hear about this happening.


The thing with engine failures. They don't always have to be at a time of stress on the engine. If there is a fatigue fracture of a critical part it can fail at a normal idle rpm if the fracture is great enough. The damage can occur any time and the event of destruction is just waiting to happen.

With regards to stock engines. They are built by parts of the cheapest nature. They are designed to hold the stock power so they aren't going all out on strength in their design. On top of that there can be defects in the metal. You can never predict that or would you ever know. Luck of the draw unfortunately. That weakness might handle 10,000 hell miles and finally decide it's done. It might last 20 miles on the dyno and decide it's done.

I love seeing posts from guys suggesting all these wild and hard to perform swaps when they drive a stock block car. And don't even bother arguing with me that LS or 2jz swap isn't hard to perform. look at all the work involved and the YEARS it has taken members to have a decent swap build. If it were easy everyone would have them and they would be done in weeks, not months/years.

 

Sorry to hear about this man... I'm with Jeff on this one, too many guys talk LS or 2jz without ever mentioning the headaches to get the job done. It is by no means a walk in the park.

On the other hand, I will say that the detune idea is most likely the best bet for your need. This is the name of the game when you decide to add FI to a NA car. If you decide to build, maybe look at clevite for bearings if you can't find anything since I saw that was a mention earlier on (not sure since I have a DE, but might have better luck)

In regards to building, I think it really falls in the builder and how everything is set. There are so many horror stories of builds on here, but you rarely hear about all the wonderful successes. I had 20k on my stock block at 430whp and close to 400wtq. I drove it hard and never had a problem. Decided I wanted more and built another VQ and swapped in. So far it has close to 16k on it with 750+whp ~700wtq (q16), and most of the time running around 600 whp pump. I am very hard on my car, drive it on the streets, grudge match, back and forth to Zdayz 4 years straight. Reliability is achievable (experienced builder + experienced tuner= longevity)

My point is, we can all only give you ADVICE, but ultimately if you love the car, the power, and have the funds, then stick with someone you really trust to build your motor and enjoy the car. I do suggest talking to Hal@ Dynosty or Larry@ SP with motor options... They definitely have more experience with the HR then most of us. Both are very good and straight forward, even when you don't want to hear it.

Good luck man!

 

ill pull my built stroked HR out and sell it to you cheap if your interested. can include turbo's that will mate right up with your kit aswell. pm me if your interested.