I have around 30K in receipts and near as I can tell..assembly or partial assembly was a shop called "Chaos Performance Tuning" 11810 Grays Corner road Berlin MD and another mentioned in the bill is "Hamilton Machine shop"..receipt is dated 5-24-2005 Hope that helps...

 

OP... sorry for your loss and welcome to the VED Club.

Be very careful with reusing parts, just because there were no chunks in thew pan, doesn't mean there isn't damage. Pop a valve cover off and look for small pieces of copper (bearing material) where the oil settles. Use a magnet to look for shavings as well. If you lost a bearing, it is a through the motor and turbos 100%.

I would disagree with this statement, but you are werlcome to your opinion. I would guess that my car (which I destroyed all resale value in long ago) has a better chance of selling with my swap than a Z/G with a TT kit on it.

 

Thanks for the tips. We will be taking it apart over the next several days.

 

Yeah definitely go over everything. Disassemble your heads COMPLETELY, buy a nice mic, and sit down for a long date with your fsm. Just clearance all the valves etc and clean everything up. You'll likely be doing this anyway when you install your cams.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to have your heads pressure tested to boot. Definitely have your heads resurfaced, and ask the machinist where the windows were/how deep they were. That way you can tell how bad your engine **** its self...

 

engine came home today. removed the oil pans and found the rod was snapped just below the piston and bent towards the front of the block. rod cap and bolts were in tact and the flinging rod hit the bottom, outer side of the piston skirt (found in the oil pan). piston end of the rod was swinging freely from the piston. Found an oil squirter in the bottom of the pan. Mostly big chunks of aluminum but there were some small particles, not a much. Turbo drain lines, feed lines, etc. don't have any metal particles.

was able to unbolt the rod bolts but couldn't get the rod cap off. didn't try real hard but i think when the rod bent it put the bearing and cap in a bind.

Did i mention early on I had an overboost occur because of a zip tie? It hit like 15-16psi on my boost gauge. I'm wondering if that didn't cause the rod to weaken and ultimately give?

 

That will definately put a hole in the side of your block, haha, best of luck put it back together

 

16psi would easily weaken a rod. Especially along with some detonation due to stock compression and not being tuned in that area.

 

tapped the rod cap with a hammer and it came right off. No spun bearing based on what I'm looking at (can you guys confirm).

Yes, I am car guy equipped with a cherry picker and engine stand at my house:

My window looking from the inside out:

Oil Pickup, no chunks getting through that.

Connecting Rod snapped and you can see, bent towards the front of the motor:

Another angle after rotating the block:

Looking up through the bottom at the piston (rod dangling)

Another piston shot

Rod cap, picture of bearing which is intact, angle 1

Rod cap, picture of bearing which is intact, angle 2

Rod cap, picture of bearing which is intact, angle 3

Rod cap, picture of bearing which is intact, angle 4

Rod side, picture of bearing which is intact, angle 1

Rod side, picture of bearing which is intact, angle 2

Rod side, picture of bearing which is intact, angle 3

Oil Pan with accessories

Piston squirter in bottom of oil pan


Thanks for looking.

 

Looks a little wore on the bearing is definatly check your crank and it may need polishing.

 

Yeah, motor had 33k on it.

 

Lol at just polishing the crank.

I'm sure you could re-use the crank, but I'd start with a whole fresh short block to build from. Originally I bought a block off a member with 96k miles on it and it opened up a pocket in the cylinder wall during machining. No one knows why, probably was a casting imperfection.

Even though you didn't find any particles in the lines, wash out all oil lines thoroughly. A lot of people in various communities (both on engines and transmissions) have blown **** up because there was crap in the lines they couldn't see.

 

It was just a general statement he asked about spun bearings so I went to the next area of damage after bearings

 

Bearing look to have very little scarring, just check to see if a fingernail catches in the grooves. If not, it should be OK.

Pop off a valve cover and post some pics of the inside. Also, looks like an exhaust leak on the drivers side in the rear.

 

Yeah, exhaust leaks on both sides where the waste gate tubes mounted to the manifolds. Only three out of four bolts were used and I have a feeling some separation was created when trying to get the recirc tubes to fit properly by pulling on the wastegate.

 

As mentioned above I would flush oil through all of the passages to clear out the bad oil. Then if you rebuild I would use the first oil after starting for no more than 20 miles or so before discarding it in order to get more fine particles out of the passages.

The overboost would definitely cause a stress fracture if there was detonation (which there likely was) so that could have been the reason the engine was weakened. Pull the heads and check the top of that piston. Chances are you will see signs of detonation.

What EMS were you using? I always set in overboost protection. In osiris since there isn't overboost protection you find what cells are the highest you use for the set boost, go to the next higher flow rate cells (to the right of the used cells) and make them overly rich in the fuel map and in the timing map pull tons of timing. That way if you overboost it will dump fuel and pull timing like crazy and the car will fall on it's face so you don't damage the engine.

 

bearing doesnt look spun, but does show a little bit of wear, wouldnt worry abut that though. but with that much junk in the oil pan.. it could be through the turbo too.

 

Turbo drain lines were clean although I know you can't see some particles. I will also check the feed lines. I think the turbos will be fine but I will flush them with oil to make sure. There is a strong chance that following the overbuild underboost philosophy, I won't go back with these turbos though.

 

Sorry to hear.

My advise, part out and run for your live.


Also, welcome to VED club.

 

That's the spirit, LOL

 

Now there's 3 of us with blown up hrs? Your rod frosts bearing and my hg?