I've got a build or something *PICS*
#142
I did just find an inconel heat sheild sheet on summit that's rated to 2200 degrees continuous. Will probably order one.
#143
The small shield will get wicked hot but since it's not contacting the body it will dissipate the heat through the air. I know i'm speaking to the choir but that would be my first line of defense in this situation.
#144
Having an aluminum shield between the turbo and body with space between the shield and body will provide a lot of help. It will keep heat from being transferred due to the air gap. Thermal stick on stiff will protect the body but it will still absorb and transfer heat up into the body....just not damaging heat.
The small shield will get wicked hot but since it's not contacting the body it will dissipate the heat through the air. I know i'm speaking to the choir but that would be my first line of defense in this situation.
The small shield will get wicked hot but since it's not contacting the body it will dissipate the heat through the air. I know i'm speaking to the choir but that would be my first line of defense in this situation.
I do however plan on wrapping the downpipe with this titanium exhaust wrap, then putting some high temp blanket in between the car and the DP. Of course I'll spray on the high temp paint on it first, but as we all know that crap flakes off and doesn't make much difference.
#145
Binder is right. Inconel just withstans heat, you need to convect, conduct, radiate it out of there. There should be convection there, too. Thinner heat shield will act more like a cooling fin.
How much was this inconel thing? That **** is amazing, but it's precious metal expensive (in pipes, anyway). If it wasn't over $1k, I'd be researching to see how common low grade, fake inconel is.
How much was this inconel thing? That **** is amazing, but it's precious metal expensive (in pipes, anyway). If it wasn't over $1k, I'd be researching to see how common low grade, fake inconel is.
#146
Binder is right. Inconel just withstans heat, you need to convect, conduct, radiate it out of there. There should be convection there, too. Thinner heat shield will act more like a cooling fin.
How much was this inconel thing? That **** is amazing, but it's precious metal expensive (in pipes, anyway). If it wasn't over $1k, I'd be researching to see how common low grade, fake inconel is.
How much was this inconel thing? That **** is amazing, but it's precious metal expensive (in pipes, anyway). If it wasn't over $1k, I'd be researching to see how common low grade, fake inconel is.
I guess the notion of finding something super reflective to cover the aluminum would make the most sense. I'll sit down and do some real research on inconel, fake inconel and what material/combination would be best and I'll measure the distance I have to work with sometime this weekend (if I don't go raving in LA, I might actually get it done too LOL).
Thanks for the insight btw Dave/Binder.
#147
I was just thinking of space savings with the aluminum sheet.
It just hit me, you could have the turbine jet hot coated as well. That combined with a thin aluminum sheet would probably be all that is needed and won't add much to the space restraints. Unless you are road racing and seeing boost for 30 minutes straight I don't think there will be very much continuous high heat.
It just hit me, you could have the turbine jet hot coated as well. That combined with a thin aluminum sheet would probably be all that is needed and won't add much to the space restraints. Unless you are road racing and seeing boost for 30 minutes straight I don't think there will be very much continuous high heat.
#148
I was just thinking of space savings with the aluminum sheet.
It just hit me, you could have the turbine jet hot coated as well. That combined with a thin aluminum sheet would probably be all that is needed and won't add much to the space restraints. Unless you are road racing and seeing boost for 30 minutes straight I don't think there will be very much continuous high heat.
It just hit me, you could have the turbine jet hot coated as well. That combined with a thin aluminum sheet would probably be all that is needed and won't add much to the space restraints. Unless you are road racing and seeing boost for 30 minutes straight I don't think there will be very much continuous high heat.
#149
I understand the point you guys make, it's just I'm concerned that the aluminum could melt next to the hotside of the turbo. The distance between the ds and the hotside is probably like 1/4 to 1/2 inch so I feel that the aluminum could potentially melt, as it can only withstand 1200 degrees and I wanted to get something that I knew would withstand the temps.
Thanks for the insight btw Dave/Binder.
Thanks for the insight btw Dave/Binder.
My wastegate is right next to the oem aluminum heat shield under the car on my G and even when my wastegate was glowing red on the dyno the aluminum was able to be touched shortly after a pull. I know because I had to replace my boost reference lines and burned myself on everything but that aluminum....lol.
#150
That is 1200* of direct contact. Without conduction transfer I think it would be hard to transmit that heat completely into the aluminum unless you sustained a long time of high heat on that turbo. Aluminum dissipates heat really fast (again, i'm talking to the choir here so I'm not trying to talk down to you). Even with welding aluminum it will cool to the point of being able to be handled just seconds after stopping the weld. With airflow it will dissipate fast being that it is a very thin aluminum.
My wastegate is right next to the oem aluminum heat shield under the car on my G and even when my wastegate was glowing red on the dyno the aluminum was able to be touched shortly after a pull. I know because I had to replace my boost reference lines and burned myself on everything but that aluminum....lol.
My wastegate is right next to the oem aluminum heat shield under the car on my G and even when my wastegate was glowing red on the dyno the aluminum was able to be touched shortly after a pull. I know because I had to replace my boost reference lines and burned myself on everything but that aluminum....lol.
In that case I'll get some aluminum up in this bish and call it a day!
#151
Actually I would go the other route. Make it just enough to cover the area that would be in the direct heat path of the turbine. The smaller it is the faster it will cool down and less likely it would become "heat soaked". Yes it would heat up faster but with something like a drag race it would only receive heat for 10-11 seconds at a time then be allowed to cool a little. So it's just slowing heat transfer to the point of protecting the chassis from absorbing.
#152
Actually I would go the other route. Make it just enough to cover the area that would be in the direct heat path of the turbine. The smaller it is the faster it will cool down and less likely it would become "heat soaked". Yes it would heat up faster but with something like a drag race it would only receive heat for 10-11 seconds at a time then be allowed to cool a little. So it's just slowing heat transfer to the point of protecting the chassis from absorbing.
#153
Thin, 18 or 20 gauge.
It just blocks radiant heat. The thicker it is the more it will absorb the heat and stay hot. Thin blocks radiant heat and dissipates its own heat fast. That's what you want. Kind of like when a person stands between yourself and a campfire. It gets cold where you are real fast.
It just blocks radiant heat. The thicker it is the more it will absorb the heat and stay hot. Thin blocks radiant heat and dissipates its own heat fast. That's what you want. Kind of like when a person stands between yourself and a campfire. It gets cold where you are real fast.
#155
Having a grand fiasco with fittings, summit shipped me some wrong ones, I keep not ordering the right ones, and in town nobody's got em. I'm putting it off for another couple of weeks and then a few buddies and I are going to knock it out (after finals and on winter break).
#158