good deal on the DS. it was more FYI as I was quite surprised from what I found out when I asked around about availability and why they are not common.

Regardless what its made of, a 1 piece if it goes, without a DS loop, will peg leg your car into the air.

 

Not common on G35's you mean? Or in general? There was a group by over on g35driver for the aluminum driveshaft (single piece). I bet a whole bunch of people are running that now. As long as the electronic speed limiter is in place, it shouldn't be an issue I suppose.

In regards to a drive shaft loop, I've got my dual 3" pipes snaking back and forth down there with 2 pairs of cats, 12" resonators a finger width apart, a long x pipe, and my exhaust cut outs. I don't think I have room for a loop or a need for one! Look - where can the driveshaft escape the tunnel???



I have worried a little bit about running with the cut outs open and the heat generated in the middle of the tunnel there - no heat shielding for the exhaust turn downs at the moment and not sure if the carbon fiber is particularly susceptible to heat.

 

Seeing how much you've invested (20K? 30K? +++?), what will a 500$ piece of heat shielding hurt?

Better safe than sorry.

 

lol, which year?

It won't cost $500 to fabricate a heat shield, but it's a tight spot and I don't really know if it will help. I mean the turn downs point down and if I'm sitting in one spot the heat is going to just rise and go right around any heat shield, right?

Rich is going to say I'm probably over thinking this... but if my drive shaft splinters right there, I'm going to blame him!

 

No, the heat shield will help tremendously. By the time the heated exhaust gasses flank the heatshield and enter the tunnel, the heat will be mostly dissipated through convection to the environment atmosphere.

Even though they point downwards, the pipe itself will get hot and radiate heat.

I'm not exactly sure whether your cut-outs will reach unsafe (to the DS) temperatures with your setup, but on my car (240 WHP 5AT) the cabin gets uncomfortably hot after a 30 minute drive. I can't imagine how your fire-breathing 600 HP exhaust would be any better.

 

^ i ran open cutouts right off the turbo as well as open dumps, right under the drivers seat and never felt change in cabin temp.

ya everyone of those aluminum driveshafts were made by spicer which said they will not make anymore becuase they wouldnt balance. If I owned one, I would sell it. But based on that thread, i doubt any of them will see the speeds/ trq needed to twist it

as far as the heat. You'd have to be sitting in 1 spot wailing on the antilag out the cutouts for that area to heat up enough to worry about the DS.

I knew you'd (over)do your research about the DS, but just looking out your exhaust is as much as a cage as a loop would be. If I ever went 1 piece, I'd get a loop since I only have a single exhaust.

 

I am not worried on the street. I am worried on the dyno - the cut outs will remain open for hours with the car running and possible fire ***** when letting off. Maybe airflow from the fan will be enough... I will raise the issue with Hal - maybe weld in 4 small tabs so that a sheet of aluminum can be secured as needed.

 

Looking good Raj. Looking forward to seeing it go down the airstrip !

~paul

 

Ceramic space shuttle tiles... Problem solved.

 

I am going with a 'anodized blue' on the timing cover so if I go 'black chrome' on the Cosworth center I will go anodized blue on the end caps... I will also black chrome the SC housing, pipes and catch cans at that point as well to tie it all together...

Ok, good to know she is safe and happy in there! ... She needs a little TLC on that front bumper and where a tranny shop tried to close the hood without popping the hood pins and cracked the paint but she will be all good to go again here soon! Thanks for checking in on her!

 

Oh was that your anodized blue timing cover sitting in their showroom? It looked outstanding. Black and blue is a nice combo!

 

Yes, that was mine... I have a pic they sent me and it looked great in the pic! They tell me it looks much deeper and better in person so I can't wait to see it. The black that was on it were just 'fill in pieces' ... Those will be replaced with either polished or 'black chromed powdercoat' ... I am leaning towards the black chrome look tho since many out there are polished and I want to do something a tad different.

 

I could see maybe some heat from the dyno runs so just have hal toss another fan under there or put a piece of aluminum to block the radiant heat. On the street there is so much airflow under the car it would never have heat build up in that area.

As for the driveshaft, I've personally seen a truck drop the front driveshaft in front of me on the interstate (my friend's 79 ford) and the shaft just kicked sideways and then under the right tire. Mythbusters also disproved that the driveshaft will stick the ground and cause the car to flip up in the air. Especially since carbon fiber shatters into billions of pieces upon a hard impact.

 

Ok, got a little something else cooking (but that's it Hal, time to wrap it up!!! )



These guys will be sitting on top of some Bilstein PSS10 coilovers. Many thanks to Solomon from Exotic Air. Full write up to follow.

My tein monoflex coilovers will be up for sale soon for some track junkie! PM me if interested ( $1199 if you save me the trouble of posting up in marketplace).

 

I will be there! (and you're still going to lose - )

 

those are nuts.
i cant wait for you to start evaluating air pumps for decibel ratings. The pump will be louder than your exhaust.

 

Hmmm, forgot to check the decibel ratings. lol.

Car should be on the dyno soon!!!

Got a few goodies up for sale if anyone looking for another good deal:

1. Haltech Pro Harness

2. Osiris Tuner

 

I assume you are putting those on the front. When you install them you may want to put a spacer between the cup and your tophat. I used some locking collars to go in between. Fit perfect on my bc coils with these cups

2-7/16 BORE 3 1/2" OVER ALL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LOCKING-COLLAR-2-7-16-2-7-16-BORE-3-1-2-OVER-ALL-/300487076147?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f66ce933
21 bucks for peace of mind. What they do is remove the load on the bushing that the shaft rides and and puts all the spring pressure back onto the tophat.

 

Yes, only the front. Thank you for this. Dustin may have already installed, but I like the concept. Where did you source locking collars for the spacer?

 

The ebay link are the exact ones I purchased.
Using some spare plastic spring seats these fit perfect to my tophat ring.

representative picture


on my coilovers the spring retaining ring on the top hat did NOT extend beyond the ring the the tophat rests on. So when i initially installed my cups the cup rested on that ring, placing all the spring force on the rubber pressed in bushing in the tophat.




In this pic you can see the tophat and the spring ring and how it doesnt extend past the tophat support ring



which is an issue, you can see the gap when installed



I used the lock collar to fill the gap and keep the cup off the top hat support ring and thus removing the spring action off the rubber bushing.


What brand of coils do you have?