ccchaorule

iTrader: (4)

Dynosty built my motor and it has been running strong for about 10k miles now. Anyways, when i got my motor back from them i asked them what engine oil they recommended and they told me Castrol GTX 10w30 or 10w40, non synthetic oil. I asked them if i should switch to synthetic down the road and they told me they recommend the thicker oil for their built motors due to the build design and that i can run synthetic if i wish but they use exactly what they recommended on all their race cars.. Does anyone with built motor twin turbos run non synthetic oil? from what i read it seems like most people run synthetic oil on their builds? I have been running 10w30 mobil 1 synthetic oil but i kind of what to try something new. Any input?? thanks guys

supraturboman

iTrader: (10)

Stick with what you have been using. There is nothing wrong with mobil 1.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Mobil1 5w40 'turbo diesel truck' has scored highest for me on my dozen or so UOA's. But oil is like @ssh0les, everyone has an opinion. I base mine on UOA's and availability at parts stores.

F34RL355

i use german castrol syntec 0w30

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

i use synthetic 15 50 motul and have been liking it, keeps my oil pressure a bit higher since it was rather low when using 5 40, and it lubes great

psychoballistic

iTrader: (8)

I use Mobil1 10w30 and 10w40. I also use Valvoline 10w30 and 10w40 synthetic. Conventional oil is commonly used because on applications because it is A) cheaper and changed more often for high hp applications b) often times helps with oil pressure c) doesn't interfere with PCV systems as much as synthetic does from my experience.

I run both to be honest, never had a problem. I usually run synthetic on the street, and conventional at the track since it's coming right out when I come home.

Djamps said it best, it's like @ssholes, everyone's got an opinion on it. I honestly would just follow what Hal and Dustin told you if they built your motor.

OkashiZ

iTrader: (11)

vegetable oil.

DaveJackson

iTrader: (5)

Paging davidv. Attention: Mr. davidv!
Your presence is requested immediately in this thread.



He no coming...

graffkid732

iTrader: (44)

He's out to lunch. He will be back shortly.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Do some searching. This issue has come up several times before and there is lots of good info out there.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

You're probably not old enough to remember, but in the 50's and 60's the racing oil of choice was Castrol R, and it was vegetable oil. Made from castor beans, which is where the name Castrol comes from.

OkashiZ

iTrader: (11)

very cool

taywan

iTrader: (53)

rotella

AndreaLeel

Stick with what you have been using.

Domer74

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

As always run what your builder recommends. I'm going to run gtx 10w-40 on my dynosty built motor. Or if you decide you want to run xxxxx brand, make sure you stick with that weight/brand for the rest of the motor's life.

If I remember correctly, Hal said they run GTX in all their cars. If it's good enough for them, it's definitely good enough for me.

What you should actually be concerned about is how often you change your oil. I'm planning on changing mine very often, but that's just me. Very much less than 1k miles, after ever 'racing condition', and sometimes before a 'racing condition', simply dependent on how oil stress tests show the oil to wear after a 'racing condition'. But my engine is pretty loose.
Imho with something like gtx you're looking at like 20 bucks give or take a change, you'd be a moron not to change it very frequently.

binder

iTrader: (8)

Never said anything to me about GTX. I run a dynosty block now as well.

I've always ran shell rotella synthetic 5-40 in all my race bikes and now with my built engine. If it holds up in engines I spin to 19k rpms for 45 minute races at redline then it will do all I need in a car. So far no issues on my last block or this one with that oil (last engine lost a return oil line and I drove 14 hours home with less than a quart of oil in it and didn't spin a bearing FYI).

For break in never a synthetic but after that it's almost silly to invest that much in an engine and not use something that will reduce as much friction as possible.

Pete5150

Ok, so the saying originally goes "opinions are like @ssholes, everyone's got one." I don't think oil is like @ssholes, it certainly smells better. I think what you all meant was "opinions on oil is are like @ssholes, everyone's got one."

Resmarted

iTrader: (2)

I explicitly asked. I have a paper with break in procedure etc too... again because I explicitly asked. Had I not asked, they probably wouldn't have said anything. I asked hal and dustin A LOT of questions, some very in-depth others more obvious and simple. Here's a fun dynosty fact, hal built/owns one of the fastest 2j sc300's out there (back in the day). In fact, I saw his build years before I had the Z and almost made me choose an sc300 when I was picking a platform to work with.

Most motor oils out there are good enough now a days. And to be honest the 'performance' differences between the good brands are basically negligible when you do oil changes often. I do however believe that sticking with one 'model' of oil for the life of the engine is the correct thing to do.

karletto66

Here in Italy a lot of people use Mobil1 full synt (of course...) 5w-50.
Very good performance also on cold start, good in track days and normally quite low consumption...
EU made...

Use onyl full synt oil for a 350 please !