Lol at stock engine guys giving bad advice in here.

Lol at all built guys who only claim dyno numbers as an accomplishment. You guys drive the car like b!tches and run $hit times or don't run at all. If you did you would have problems.

I see a ton of young people serving who come home and want to spend their money on these cars. It always end in regret. I know some guys locally who sell these cars for half they put into them and can't get away fast enough.

This isn't for the weak hearted or light wallet folks. Fawk this platform. Fawk all the advice giving non drivers. You guys are clowns. Have a nice day.

 

i cant speak for others alberto but i push my car hard, cant legitimately race it at the track since none on this island but there are plenty here who have seen me drive and agree i push it. its all about the car being put together correctly, heck there are times i dont even follow my own advice and let the car heat up fully first granted i keep that to a minimum. the biggest issue i will see when i get my car to the track is the axles since im still running stock axles but for now its fine since i dont launch the car from the 2 step, not that i would have traction doing that anyway.

i will agree anyone will have problems, but they shouldnt have any major problems if the car is put together correctly it will all be small nickle and dime crap. i cant really comment on the deployment money thing because thats what i did, however all my bills are now paid off as well minus the wifes focus and i have another deployment coming up so i can leave the army with about 30k saved up.

 

I agree with jerry but only as a corner case -- someone who turns their own wrenches and knows alot about the platform and f/i in general is an exception not a rule. That said, 99% of what alberto said is true.

 

Best choice: trade in and use the $8000-$10K for a faster car.

Alternative choice: If you are in love with the looks of the car or it has sentimental value, keep the stock engine and get a JWT 530bb or GReddy 18g TT and run low 6psi boost. You'll be at 360whp/340wtq which is plenty for a RWD DD on street tires.

Worst choice : Build the engine, try to get big power, worry about the cost of your car breaking all the time and eventually turn something you love into something you hate. Become a jaded old grumpy man.

 

I say go for it but have a back up car just in case. Do the build yourself and save some cash while learning in the process. Granted I did not go FI on this car but I did on my 2012 5.0. As Alberto said eff this platform! Its a good car and I plan on keeping mine but if youre not a shop owner or have gobs of cash imo its not worth it. Just like the other guy said thats hes 20k in and not dont yet. To build my 5.0 rods, pistons, crank, bearings, $1700 with everything balance. Yes they are two different car but these car just cost too much to go fast. I still say do it but I would look into other platforms first.

 

Boosted Performance kit, supporting gauges, and tuned properly at 8psi all day. Make sure to always allow your car to reach running temperature before pushing it... good habit to have period.

If you maintain your car properly you should be able to daily drive with no issues. Once you push near 11psi and above well that's a whole other story.

 

This thread is a noob magnate. LOL.

 

GTFO!

Trash. Response is trash.

 

No such thing. It sucks but that's part of the game. If you're going to do it at all, do it right and don't cheap out. But know that even then, you're still not "safe".

Sell Z for say $15-20k. I don't know what they really go for. Take the other $20-30k you're more than willing to spend to do the build using new and quality parts. That's a nice down payment for a used GTR or something at that level.

 

^ yep.

i have not had any FI experience yet that has NOT been accurately described through anger and cursing by Alberto... lol..and mine still doesnt even run lol.. parts are already breaking and its not even running yet jus sayin..

there is no man made machine that can be built...
... to eat money faster
...than FI VQ
...aside from an industrial shredder the size of a wood chipper.

When mine does run, i expect nothing more than a few days or weeks of fun before the issues arise to ruin it all over again.

Would i do it again? lol.
Ah... no. Ppl happy w thier FI are the exception and outliers, not the rule, and are certainly not the mean.

 

I'd say, SAVE YOUR MONEY.

Use it to buy a newer decently fast car or for future purchases like a house.

If not, I'd say:

Don't build the engine but run a very conservative tune. You have an HR block which is proven to be able to handle higher power levels at better reliability. If you are stuck on turboing your 350z, my advice would be to get a build that will let you hit around 420whp on a good tune. From everything I've researched and asked around at experienced shops this is very safe for an HR and also enough power to enjoy and be king on the road. From everything I've read on here it seems the more people build and pay for, the more problems you will have down the road. More people are happy with a conservative FI on stock block than a full build, especially HR people.

My suggestions for a safe build that will be less expensive:

-Greddy / GTM twin turbo tuner kit
-600 CC injectors
-Walbro 250 fuel pump
-Oil cooler kit
-Twin disk clutch kit
-HD clutch slave cylinder
-high flow cat-back exhaust
-Uprev / Osiris tune


These parts with installation and dyno tune you are still looking at $15,000 - $20,000.
I wouldn't spend anymore than this. You'll have more problems the more you do from what I've seen.

 

I think it's something to be said of the big difference between a DE engine and a HR engine though. This engine is practically a completely different engine. People say the only difference are the dual throttle bodies, but that's not true. Nissan claims 80% of the engine is different. I will agree that the DE engine is probably the most god awful platform you could enter into in regards to power goals. These HR engines have been proven to be much more reliable at higher power levels. I would sell my car in a heart beat if I had a DE engine Z.

 

You won't be making that much money on a single deployment. Going FI is costly and risky, buy a better platform.

 

It's funny watching all the High and Mighty responses... LOL Not everyone post there builds here like a, "Who's got the Biggest DICK Contest!" It's funny how some of you think you're the final word in FI Builds. There's a crap load of people out there who run our engines stock with FI and have had no issues for years in the 450whp and 410tq range. The ones who've blown there engines are most of the times Bad Drivers, Shitty Installs, or Horrible tunes. Most of the times it's Human Error through Mechanical Over Rev which is why you'll even see many NA engines blown as well.





APSMike has been running Boost now for over 100,000 miles on his daily Stock 2004 G35 and still going strong on APS Twin at 10psi. He drives like a mad man all the time and tracks with it as well.

I'd put the Boosted Performance Kit against any other kit out there. Talk all the BS you want but don't $hit on one if not the best Turbo Kits out there for our cars PERIOD!

 

^ when an OP asks for opinions, opinions are what he shal get, and every one is entitled to theirs.

If the OP posted a thread called " Please reply w unrefutable FACT about safety of FI VQ engines" then we would be limited in our replies.

There is no FACT of SAFETY in ANY car .. ever.. let alone a car that has ANY non OEM parts modified. Now lets talk about changing the amount of atmospheres of pressure it intakes.. especially using stock parts..and you can see why you get such peppered responses.
The car is being asked to do VAST HUGE amounts of performance past its design. Pretty much end of story.

People post these threads for a natural reason.. the idea that proper planning prevents p#ss poor performing.. and it can.. but it will not create SAFETY, you may end up safe, but its only by luck. Thats certaily why ALberto and ppl who ahve been around a billion years in FI have hate replies lol.. id be tired of someone else thinking theres a safe way when there is no safe way, valid thread and q or not.... you gamble n win or you gamble and lose. No need to recreate the wheel is all. He types nasty, but hes usually not far off from the truth lol.

Advice is opinion from personal experience.. which is all that the OP can wish to ask for or get.. the rest of the warnings OR green lights he hears will leave the choice up to him, as it should be.

 

Yes I agree that everyone is entitled to there opinion but it's sad to see some of these A$$ Hats stepping on others opinions rather than having constructive criticism.

I say, if your reply isn't constructive or adds useful information... then you're just a Trolling B!TCH like some have become here on this forum recently.

 

I'll say it again, how many people with blown DE engines come on here saying "No" compared to HR guys. Do ANY of the guys (Alberto included) who've come on this thread or related threads have experience with the HR engine and conservative stock block FI builds?

Big difference in the engines abilities. Beyond 420whp on the DE engines and it's basically a "when" and not an "if." HR is another story. It has it's limits, but it's a better platform.

 

My HR failed at only 8psi ~440whp.

I tried different engine builders just like Chris (Cass) and they all failed.


VQ just like the RB engine. They are **** to spun bearings.

 

Spun mine na..
I agree fully.
Oil starvation.issues in vq cars.

 

Listen to the OG's when it comes to FI regardless of how harsh. There is so much info from the past that OG members have posted it's ridiculous. All readily available.