Need help with a safe build. on my Z
Plus 6000^
I wish it weren't so.
In.fact, if I k.ew then what I know now, id have a 100 shot of no2 and an. Ings lip kit, some coils, 19s and a bumper tuck. W some lame exhaust..and would have called it a day..
Fun, clean, simple
.CHEAP.
.
I wish it weren't so.
In.fact, if I k.ew then what I know now, id have a 100 shot of no2 and an. Ings lip kit, some coils, 19s and a bumper tuck. W some lame exhaust..and would have called it a day..
Fun, clean, simple
.CHEAP.
.
There is quite a history of FI carnage and short lived success stories on this platform and a lot of it is documented on this forum. Even though the stock HR block has been shown to handle roughly 75-100whp more than a stock DE block, there have been plenty of HR motor failures too. Those who have achieved (or claimed) real longevity with their FI setups are a small minority, and like Alberto said, you've got to question how hard those guys have really pushed their setups.I used to be optimistic that the Z and G would eventually surpass the performance benchmarks of the Toyota Supra. But the VQ motor will never be as stout or reliable with boost as the iron block 2JZ. If I new then what I know now, I would never have started my build project on my G or would have looked into engine swap possibilities from the very start
There are many factors at play, tune, running lean, cylinder pressure / torque , etc etc it doesn't nessesarily have to do with just FI or whp numbers.
If you're telling me this really is the case I'll take your word for it, but it will be the first HR I've heard of that has failed below 450whp mark, in fact it will be the first I've heard under 500whp. There is a very small sample size for us FI HRs so any shared experience and details would really help us HRs guys out.
I know that nothing is certain and yes, FI on these VQs is more or less a gamble but less losses for these HRs. I am extremely suprised to here an HR failed at only 440whp, but if so I'm assuming your torque numbers where pretty high as this is the cause for failure more times than not. That, or that biotch was running lean as H.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Dec 3, 2012 at 08:22 PM.
Unless you can give me a more detailed answer I'm going to assume troll.
There are many factors at play, tune, running lean, cylinder pressure / torque , etc etc it doesn't nessesarily have to do with just FI or whp numbers.
If you're telling me this really is the case I'll take your word for it, but it will be the first HR I've heard of that has failed below 450whp mark, in fact it will be the first I've heard under 500whp. There is a very small sample size for us FI HRs so any shared experience and details would really help us HRs guys out.
I know that nothing is certain and yes, FI on these VQs is more or less a gamble but less losses for these HRs. I am extremely suprised to here an HR failed at only 440whp, but if so I'm assuming your torque numbers where pretty high as this is the cause for failure more times than not. That, or that biotch was running lean as H.
There are many factors at play, tune, running lean, cylinder pressure / torque , etc etc it doesn't nessesarily have to do with just FI or whp numbers.
If you're telling me this really is the case I'll take your word for it, but it will be the first HR I've heard of that has failed below 450whp mark, in fact it will be the first I've heard under 500whp. There is a very small sample size for us FI HRs so any shared experience and details would really help us HRs guys out.
I know that nothing is certain and yes, FI on these VQs is more or less a gamble but less losses for these HRs. I am extremely suprised to here an HR failed at only 440whp, but if so I'm assuming your torque numbers where pretty high as this is the cause for failure more times than not. That, or that biotch was running lean as H.
Search "pop goes the hr" he is the only other stock block failure I have read about. F150intially is his name iirc
Just read it, acke15. He was running 11.8psi at 539.9whp. That probably explains why it popped. Edit: Also read he had an overboost problem and he said it hit 16 psi which probably weaked the rod. Looks like he was going too big. Still surprised midZ350's popped at 440whp. I may want to detune my setup, I've got .6 bar wastegate springs on the way.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Dec 4, 2012 at 04:57 AM.
Just read it, acke15. He was running 11.8psi at 539.9whp. That probably explains why it popped. Edit: Also read he had an overboost problem and he said it hit 16 psi which probably weaked the rod. Looks like he was going too big. Still surprised midZ350's popped at 440whp. I may want to detune my setup, I've got .6 bar wastegate springs on the way.
It's the only explanation for an 8psi HR(or DE and VHR) to blow.
Last edited by Drako_MDx; Dec 4, 2012 at 05:03 PM.
Don't forget or ignore other factors like production tolerances, crappy tunes or EMS issues, overboost or boost control problems, oil starvation and spun bearing issues from oil leaks or oil pump failures, etc.
Crappy Tune and EMS Issues - Obvious (I said this before myself)
Over Boost or Boost Control Issues - wouldn't be 8psi then... LOL (Some idiots here cheap out on supporting gauges and kill switches to prevent this)
Would the engine be better off with upgraded rods.... YES! but everyone in this forum lately is killing the usable power gain from a conservative FI upgrade done right. You guys are so pissed off at your bad experiences with extreme builds that now dream kill those who just want usable HP. These cars are pointless past 500whp on the street or road course unless you plan on using track tires on street all day... LOL
Point is that using the, "It's not if but when engine will fail" theory applies to all engines FI or not... LOL
Can you have a Boosted DE,HR, or VHR Engine on stock internals done properly... my answer would still be yes and we have many cars here in Florida within the group that will testify to this with over 60,000 miles on FI around 10psi with a slightly rich tune within the 450whp and 410tq on Dyno Jets.
Last edited by Drako_MDx; Dec 4, 2012 at 06:59 PM.
You don't get it do you?
OP is asking about built engine not stock. Why would anyone pay +$10k for 400whp thats gonna blow any minute.
Also, can you guarantee that the stock engine will last at 400whp if you push it hard? Because I'm not paying +$10k to baby the car.
The forum shops keep telling people its safe because you will comeback to them when your engine blow and comeback again when your built engine spun a bearing of pop. LOL
OP is asking about built engine not stock. Why would anyone pay +$10k for 400whp thats gonna blow any minute.
Also, can you guarantee that the stock engine will last at 400whp if you push it hard? Because I'm not paying +$10k to baby the car.
The forum shops keep telling people its safe because you will comeback to them when your engine blow and comeback again when your built engine spun a bearing of pop. LOL
I guess I should have specified everything else in working order... LOL
Crappy Tune and EMS Issues - Obvious (I said this before myself)
Over Boost or Boost Control Issues - wouldn't be 8psi then... LOL (Some idiots here cheap out on supporting gauges and kill switches to prevent this)
Would the engine be better off with upgraded rods.... YES! but everyone in this forum lately is killing the usable power gain from a conservative FI upgrade done right. You guys are so pissed off at your bad experiences with extreme builds that now dream kill those who just want usable HP. These cars are pointless past 500whp on the street or road course unless you plan on using track tires on street all day... LOL
Point is that using the, "It's not if but when engine will fail" theory applies to all engines FI or not... LOL
Can you have a Boosted DE,HR, or VHR Engine on stock internals done properly... my answer would still be yes and we have many cars here in Florida within the group that will testify to this with over 60,000 miles on FI around 10psi with a slightly rich tune within the 450whp and 410tq on Dyno Jets.
Crappy Tune and EMS Issues - Obvious (I said this before myself)
Over Boost or Boost Control Issues - wouldn't be 8psi then... LOL (Some idiots here cheap out on supporting gauges and kill switches to prevent this)
Would the engine be better off with upgraded rods.... YES! but everyone in this forum lately is killing the usable power gain from a conservative FI upgrade done right. You guys are so pissed off at your bad experiences with extreme builds that now dream kill those who just want usable HP. These cars are pointless past 500whp on the street or road course unless you plan on using track tires on street all day... LOL
Point is that using the, "It's not if but when engine will fail" theory applies to all engines FI or not... LOL
Can you have a Boosted DE,HR, or VHR Engine on stock internals done properly... my answer would still be yes and we have many cars here in Florida within the group that will testify to this with over 60,000 miles on FI around 10psi with a slightly rich tune within the 450whp and 410tq on Dyno Jets.
This is exactly my thoughts. 400whp on an HR is nothing and I've only found 2 HR that have blown 1 because they ran 540 whp and had overboost issues? I understand anything can happen at anytime, but I too think there are a lot of jaded peoples who have overbuilt and over spent just to have their *** hanging out at the end. I realize that even a conservative tune I'm after could have negative consequences but what type of build wouldn't? Honestly, it seems the more people build the more likely something F's up.
Edit: Honestly I'm so tired of the negative input (and the recent influx of dirt bag teen plasti dip ******** with this value nose diving platform) I've thought of just scraping my build, selling my Nismo and buying a S5. I'm trying hard to keep my love for the Z though.
Last edited by Nismo350z#0310; Dec 4, 2012 at 08:49 PM.
I thought I would chime in here. New to the forumm but have been running a FI 350z for just over 2 years now. It is a DE motor, not an HR, so my technical advice on the subject is not very revelant. Having said that, the feeling that you get from a boosted car (no batter what the car) is IMO worth the risk, but only worth the risk if you are building a toy. If this Z is your DD, and you don't have another car to fall back on, do the basic bolts ons, have some fun, and be safe. If you do have another vehicle to fall back on, build the shi* out of it and have fun!
I have an 03 350z that is a purpose built Time Attack car. Its sees no pavement, but race track. I have been running @ 401 WHP for 2 years on a stock block with 0 issues, I do, however, know that one day it will fail. Anytime you boost a car that was not designed to be boosted, you create an issue, its all a matter of how long that issue takes to show.
I have an 03 350z that is a purpose built Time Attack car. Its sees no pavement, but race track. I have been running @ 401 WHP for 2 years on a stock block with 0 issues, I do, however, know that one day it will fail. Anytime you boost a car that was not designed to be boosted, you create an issue, its all a matter of how long that issue takes to show.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
350Z_Al
Exterior & Interior
133
Oct 29, 2020 07:44 PM
bcoffee20
Zs & Gs For Sale
5
Nov 19, 2015 06:39 PM
Subarism
East Canada
0
Sep 23, 2015 06:22 PM
Subarism
East Canada
2
Sep 23, 2015 06:09 PM
FromGtoZ
Intake Exhaust
2
Sep 20, 2015 03:41 PM













