phunk

iTrader: (21)

We finally got our stuff back from ceramic coating. We ended up not even dropping it off until last week because we have been so busy setting up the new shop. It turned out being a lot more than we thought it was going to be... im not even done yet.

But here is the testing fitting off the car. The car is all taken apart and ready and we may finish it up this week. The car is still strapped down on the trailer from moving here.

The ceramic coating is an option if you buy the kit from us we can have it done before installing or shipping out... but of course anyone can have it done on their own as well.



We are still setting up some custom stuff and working out what we are gonna do with the fuel system, but over the next few weeks it will all be coming together. I really want to get 425-450 rwhp on the stock engine for now. I am sure it is capable of more, but for now that is our goal.

Of course, we are also putting together our install kit for this Greddy system that replaces a few things that we personally feel are worthwhile to do while installing the kit, and we are also building an upgrade kit to take this system to the next level. The capabilities just sitting in this car as extremely high, 5.5psi is NOTHING.

Thanks!

-Charles
CJ Motorsports

phunk

iTrader: (21)

ahh damn web server down, pic will be up again later.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

ok works again.

350Now

Nice pic.. how much was the ceramic coating? PM if you don't want to reveal.. Thanks

DIGItonium

iTrader: (1)

Is it good or bad to wrap the manifolds with some sort of heat wrap?

If I'd go the turbo route, I'd like to reduce temps.

12SecZ

I think that heat wrap stuff they put on headers are crap myself. Coating is 500% better like Jet Hot or something if you don't care about looks and want to reduce temps. Nice pic!

phunk

iTrader: (21)

350Now: I think I will be charging about $320 to those who want it when they pick up a system from me... You can get it done for perhaps a few bucks less or a few bucks more depending on where you take it... but expect it in that area.

djtonium: it is definatly a good idea and its not just hype.

12SecZ: The Greddy supplied heat wrap isnt all that, but there is some REALLY good stuff that the ceramic can not come near competing with. That non mettallic cotton LOOKING, i have no idea what it really is, wrap is the best. With 3 wraps around a downpipe with it, you can touch the wrapped pipe at full temp and not get burned. I may or may not use some of that as WELL... I need to find out if it would harm the ceramic coating.

The shape of this system it would be near impossible to get a total wrap job done on it, but it definatly would make a different to wrap everything you can... that **** works.

One of the reasons I ceramic coated this stuff is for looks... it may not be as nice as chrome or polished stainless or something, but its a LOT better then rust... which is what your cast iron manifold and turbine houses will look like in no time flat. you can hardly even see this stuff in the engine bay tho, so wrapping it would be a potentially better solution as I have found it to work extremely well... but... I did the coating, im not that worried about it and I wanted it to look like this.

TRACK350z

I Ceramic coated my intake plenum on my 300zx, it reduced temp by 7deg.
Great Job, looks great, alot of thought will be going into this kit!

phunk

iTrader: (21)

Worked a little tonight on the install.

what a pain in the ***!!!

ive been working on it myself. its a huge hassle, but thats ok. the first time around is when you try different things different ways for hours before you end up deciding how you want it. man those fuel lines on the passenger side i seriously was screwing with for about 3 hours picking out which way and how i wanted them. my end results i am pretty happy with, but ultimately wish the fuel lines were not even in that area. if i end up running a return line to the tank, ill possibly run a new feed line with it and bring them up in the middle rather then around the exhaust manifolds.

oh and crap i was all out of stainless safty wire to hold the wrap on the fuel and evap lines, but i ended up having great success with some stainless welding rod.

the power steering pipe replacement greddy send me is welded at the wrong angle, it doesnt clear the other large pipe next to it, so thats the point where i said screw this for the night... i dont weld, thats chris' job. so tommarow ill have chris weld it then ill be back on it again.

so pretty much i screwed around all night heat wrapped and rerouting wiring and fuel lines, and I mounted one exhaust manifold, and finally figured out how to navigate the passenger side turbo onto the manifold when it comes time to mount it.

basically im wasting a lot of time on this one, but at least im getting it how i want it and next time around will go much much faster.

ill get some pics up possibly tommarow when its more to look at.

-charles

AgentOrange

i hope you guys get your goal ---- 425-450 rwhp on a stock motor......i went ahead and put new pistons and rods in mine......so i hope that you guys do it without all that

350Now

Have you remove the driver side exhaust manifold? If so, did you remove the AC compressor to get to the front bolt of the exhaust manifold? This seems very tight to get to...

phunk

iTrader: (21)

yes we have made decent progress today ill put up some pics in a little bit after the second turbo is mounted.

and to answer your question, we did in fact remove the AC compressor to make room. we left the lines on it and just lowered it down a few inches to make the space to get the stock header off.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

Here you can see how I feed the fuel and evap lines... I gained lots of space between the fuel line (smaller one), and the evap line (fatter one) is inbetween the hot stuff and the fuel connector. I am considering putting a hose clamp on the fuel connector as added insurance that it could never pop off, but its wedged pretty hard on the evap line as is. the evap line is double wrapped and has adequate clearance from the manifold. I feel ok with this setup, but in the future I will be completely relocating these lines.



Here you can see that I moved the blue plug to a completely different area, and then double wrapped the wiring harness to help insulate it from wastegate heat.



Here is a real crappy shot from the top of the passenger side.



Overall shot of passenger side.



Dark and blurry overall of the driver side.



Now I need to install my oil line kit, do the pipes, injectors, and wiring. It will be a few days before any updates. We are leaving this as is to take measurements for future developments and ordering some different parts for the oil lines that I feel will fit better then I already had.

-Charles
CJ Motorsports

phunk

iTrader: (21)

OK... well I went and mounted the passenger side downpipe adapter... due to placement of the O2 sensor I need to re-do all my fuel and evap line stuff.

crap!!!

350Now

Hi Charles,

Is there any torque spec for the turbo to the manifold? I think the manifold to the engine block is like only 10-12 psi. Also do you have a top-down shot of the driver side. I want to see how you move the AC Compressor.

TIA
Jeff

phunk

iTrader: (21)

As for the torque specs... well, if I were you I wouldnt worry about it much. You are not going to be able to get a torque wrench on most of the hardware up there. Hell, some of them you cant even get a socket, or box end on. Your stuck with the open end wrench on a few.

As for the AC compressor, ill try and get a pic tommarow, but its very simple. Just a couple long bolts and its free to drop down a few inches... of course you need to remove or loosen the belt before hand.

-charles

ACP

iTrader: (1)

I think that is my fault
You saw my earlier post picture on the fuel line, and how I did the same. It looked like a real good idea when I was looking up, reversing the lines, but when I got further along, it didn't work out.
I should of posted, I'm sorry.

On the picture above with the wiring harness running up the tranny. I found if I removed the braket, and pulled back the wiring harness behind the bolt (towards the rear of the car) and zip tied it to the bolts, it kept it out of the way better.

I will post a picture for you of my front, as it will help in the placement of stock steering cooler, horn, wiper, and came up with a great place for the rad. overflow.
I am sure you can figure it out on your own, just trying to help. I know I wish I had it, when doing the install...

ACP

iTrader: (1)

.

ACP

iTrader: (1)

Charles
You want to install the oil lines on the turbos, Before mounting the turbo.

Check your passenger side turbo. Mine came clocked in the wrong direction (slightly off) It was to close to the manifold.
(I sent a picture to Matt to confirm it) I have to remove the turbo strap, and c-clip, to get it in the correct place. I am sure yours is fine, but you might want to check. The inlet should be inbewteen the firewall and manifold. Not favoring one side.

I can't tell by your pictures, but I highly recommend putting on the hose tubing on the turbo NOW.
If only someone shared that will me, It would of saved me hours, and alot less blood (literally blood on my turbo) sweat and tears.
Even if it means taking the turbos off now.

Oh, and on the passenger side turbo, where the inlet runs close to the manifold, put some heat sheild wrap around the hose.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

Its no problem. I actually had my lines how you tried it, but then i came up with how i had it and finally found something i like... and now thats all gone to waste... haha, no big deal.

What I did was just cut the zip tie already holding it, and pull it about a half inch back and zip tie it there. This gave me space that I am comfortable with... I have done test fitting with the gates and adapter pipes and its clear to go.

Actually at the moment both my clamps are loose, and the turbos are free to clock. I did not plan on tightening them until I had test fitted everything how I want it. Both the clamps are in position where I can get to them to tighten them even with the turbos on. I noticed that both were clocked poorly, so that is why I put them on like this. Figured the only way to get it perfect was to just install them and go from there.

Both are already on. The passenger side we did before putting the turbo on, the driver side we did with the turbo mounted, because it was too friggen hard to get the turbo in/out with the coupler already on it. they are both on now and clamped. Definatly a big pain in the *** tho.

Are you speaking of the water pipe above the turbo/manifold? I have not yet got as far as to put those back in yet.

I really appreciate your help. I used yours and the other guys photos while installing just as a comparison to see how other people did it. Definatly the hardest part is just getting the turbos in and out of the car.

I have not done this yet because we are building an oil line kit to replace the greddy stuff. Doing it with earls fittings and a oil filter adapter to supply the oil, rather then the brass Tees. I personally know of 2 cars that burned to the ground from a failed Greddy oil line that broke at the fitting, and I also know of a friend that lost his fully built motor after about 2 years when his Brass Tee finally cracked. I dont want any of this, which is why I am building the kit... its pretty inexpensive so I planned on offering it to the public for anyone who cares to indulge.

Thanks again man... BTW.. how is your car doing anyway?