Ugh, not a good night for Arizona football teams, ASU lost too. I'd love for Larry to get a ring as well. But I just can't see it happening.

 

Pictures:












































pic

 

 

ha ha ha! so true ... do you think rod #4 is salvaged-out or does it have life left in it?

 

Take my monies i want that shirt!

 

I want mine to compression 11:1:1. Lol.

 

Hard to tell without measuring, take it to the reputable machine shop, they will know for sure.

 

will do Tcode ... probably the smartest thing to do

here's how the pistons came out ... I'll be cleaning them and looking for detonation over the next few days.

 

Are you going to soak them in break cleaner to get rid of the carbon?

 

Yeah - been soaking / spraying / scrubbing with a nylon brush all afternoon ... theyre cleaning up alright!

 

let the wire tuck and false-firewall removal begin ... without overthinking it - my thoughts:




Just stripped down the OEM harness, labelled the connectors, and documented the harness for future use. Nothing to sexy...



Removing the false fire wall was actually pretty easy as long as wire-harnesses, brake lines, etc were out of the way. Rough-cut it first and then took a flapper disk to soften up the edges. Not sure if I should spot weld every few inches to ensure the chassis doesnt come apart ...

 

Wanna do a wire tuck on a G35 as well????

Looking good!

 

thanks Conway - you bring your rig up here and we'll knock it out!!

back on the wire tuck...rather intimidating but today's the day to chop the harness. The only wire I cut that I wish I didnt was the knock sensor as it has shielding that will be a botch to splice back together. Lesson learned and didnt chop the throttle body wire for the same reason. Everything was straight forward with the exception of 3 sub-harness which combine grounds and/or powers feeds - shouldnt be too difficult (with the exception of what's pictured below).

Thinking either a mil-spec style connections where I can plug all wires through one connector or bundling similar wire harnesses and using deutsch style connections.

My thoughts are to have a wire break where I swap out the Link with either the OEM ECU or OEM + a haltech piggy (for emissions). The kicker will be that the OEM ECU cannot use my engine harness as it's been modified specific to the Link. So I must have the ability to run two ECUs and two ECU connectors.

I'm leaning towards an array of deutsch connectors strategically bundled based on my wire tuck. But a mil-spec connector would be tots!!

The OEM engine harness has 37 wires so it could be as few as 3 x 12 pin connectors and running a special connections for the starter wire as it's too thick of a wire gauge to put through a deutsch DT.





Gotta deal with this mess of a harness for the injectors and VTC...





donor harness

 

Looking good.

 

I eliminated my pre-firewall as well and "shaved" the bay when i did my swap (LQ9). I spot welded a few places where i cut, but nothing crazy. Been fine for 10k miles.

 

looks good - thanks for the input!

 

 

Played around a bit with the car - reinstalled an engine block / heads / valve covers / intake mani / upper & lower plenum to get a feel for measurements for each wire needing tucked according to my layout.







Also snapped a few pics with headers installed in reverse - driver side is almost clear the OEM mounts while the passenger side is a bigger conflict ... we'll see - all contingent upon selling the greddy kit.

 

damn there is so much room, once you remove that stupid false fire wall.

 

There is soo much space, wow.