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Went to a little show about 60 miles away - the car did well ... I had a few 65mph to 120mph pulls at high RPM/high load to check afr and look at my knock-signal (not that I know how I can tune ignition off it??).
I opened my variable timing control table (within the haltech) and changed any '0' values (which occurred at high & low RPMs through the entire engine load spectrum and at -14in*hg of vac) and changed them to '0.1' ...
I also added a digital gauge on my control screen for the output of the variable timing control and my output was reading a value as I would expect it. Attachment 382194
Well i was looking for what louvers you bought as i may be doing the same thing and found this page. I'm really glad i did, i think my tuner used this or a very similar version for my map. Well i went through and cleaned it up a lot based on yours. Man what a difference did it make. I no longer have that lack of power in my mid range it just pulls the whole way now. Thank you so much for putting this out there....also im SORRY for plagiarizing your intake vvt map.
Conway - the louvers were one-off ... a guy with a plasma-cutter cnc-type machine cut them for $40. I created a CAD file of what I wanted and he loaded it up and cut them pretty quick.
No plagiarism ... in reality, Hal from Dynosty talked me through a few things with the VVT and help me ... I'm just paying it back and paying it forward. Yea, the car made 100 less ft*lbs of torque when the VVT was deactivated.
I gotta small favor to ask and a few questions for ya about your recent rebuild - I'll PM you tomorrow...
The saga continues ... I rearranged the garage, moved shelves, consolidated some stuff. Tucked the car off in the back corner and got it up in the air.
Got the oil out of the car and nothing big and scary came out. Got the filter off and opened up (and granted I used a angle grinder to slice open so 'some' metal got mixed in) and def looks like resemblance of bearing material - the worst of it is what is left in the oil filter housing. I was really really really expecting more. And maybe this is a good sign? Who knows -
if you have experience with this matter please chime in - def a learning experience for me.
Unfortunately, the copper colored flakes are likely bearing material. The pic of the oil draining, it looks a little milky to me.
Yea - it does and that was my immediate thought when it was draining.
I've come to the realization that the bearings are the cause. It will make my week if the failed bearings didnt tank the block, heads, pistons, crank, rods but likely the rods and crank are toasted.
Yea - it does and that was my immediate thought when it was draining.
I've come to the realization that the bearings are the cause. It will make my week if the failed bearings didnt tank the block, heads, pistons, crank, rods but likely the rods and crank are toasted.
I'm gonna drain the coolant here in a bit...
I'm cursious what your coolant looks like. How many miles are on this motor and who built it?
It is possible that the crank can be polished out. Did any of your spare motors spin a bearing? Is it possible one of those cranks are still good? And if it's only one rod you can probably get away with just buying one.
I'm cursious what your coolant looks like. How many miles are on this motor and who built it?
It is possible that the crank can be polished out. Did any of your spare motors spin a bearing? Is it possible one of those cranks are still good? And if it's only one rod you can probably get away with just buying one.
Possibly - I'm hoping for the best preparing for the worst. The car starts up fine, wont idle, but has 30-60psi oil pressure.
Block #1 spun a bearing and aside from the aftermarket parts and the auxiliary items it was a loss. I bought it for $140 and made around $400 on it - so were cool. Block #2 was over heated and lost head gaskets. Block is good, crank is good, pistons look fine, bearings look mostly good with some minor but noticable wear on a few of them. If this block goes in the car I'll get the heads machined, new bearings, new HG and see how things go.
Coolant (for what came out) looked ok but I'll get a pic. Our friends at IPP built the block circa 2009 and I've put about 20k-25k miles on it - mostly in the 12-14psi range. 17psi is the most the block has seen. I know IPP has a bad reputation for sour blocks. I think I got a good one. I've put some stress & strain on this block so I cant complain too much.
I've heard some 'stories' (and I use that term loosely) of 0mile blocks failing within the first few hours of install. I think IPP is a puppy-mill of VQs and I think I got a good one / early on. I hope they've up'd their QC bc I think Kyle is a salt-of-the-earth guy, runs a good business, and I got nothing but good things to say about him from my experience.
Yea - I forget who has a FS with some eagle rods and ACL race bearings - might be time for a PM ... I'd like a engine shop to inspect the components before I put them back into service if they appear to be re-useable. If the rods and pistons are a loss it's not the end of the world - I sorta like this 'no guarantees in life' mentality ... makes accomplishing the goal that much sweeter.
Dare I say, a true test of manhood ... in this world of snowflakes, flavored coffee creamers and HR departments how many American (& Croatian for T-Code) men can rebuild a high performance engine? Install a turbo kit? Tune an engine? Run an 11 quarter? I'd like to be part of that group...
Originally Posted by Conway_160
If your crank is f'd lmk i have a spare. I have been putting strong magnets on the bottom of my oil pan to catch all the ferrious metal. To bad you didnt get a sample to send of to black stone so they see if you actually had coolant in it.
I appreciate the offer - I believe crank #2 is good assuming it'll balance and it's not distorted. I like the magnet idea and I've got magnets on my oil plug but they are minimal ... consider that idea plagiarized!
I didnt drain oil hoses yet so I can probably get a few ounces over to blackstone - I dont know what they're gonna tell me what I already dont know but it may be $30 well spent.
It's a spun bearing and there are too many variables to determine root cause. We had a guy on the forum that went through five (5) VQ motors before going to an LS swap and each time the results were inconclusive. Each time he used the same shop for the rebuild and got the same result. IPP motors have failed before. Just a fact. So has one Dynosty motor but it sounds like a fuel pressure issue is likely for that one. The bottom line is somehow you lost the oil film protecting the bearing. Overheating or too much load? Is it a problem that still exists or one that you think you can figure out?
I wish you the best of luck, because it seems that's whats required when a shop without a lot of experience builds a motor for the vq.
It's a spun bearing and there are too many variables to determine root cause. We had a guy on the forum that went through five (5) VQ motors before going to an LS swap and each time the results were inconclusive. Each time he used the same shop for the rebuild and got the same result. IPP motors have failed before. Just a fact. So has one Dynosty motor but it sounds like a fuel pressure issue is likely for that one. The bottom line is somehow you lost the oil film protecting the bearing. Overheating or too much load? Is it a problem that still exists or one that you think you can figure out?
I wish you the best of luck, because it seems that's whats required when a shop without a lot of experience builds a motor for the vq.
Ya with mine I'm pretty sure the cause was just being below half a tank of gas. Now in the logs I can see evidence of slosh if I run low on fuel. I just make sure to keep it full now. I'm looking into getting a holley hydra mat for this issue.
I'm so sorry for your loss bealljk , I know this feeling all to well and don't wish it upon anyone. Wish you the best with a strong recovery!
Peeling stuff off the car last few nights...nothing sexy other than the improvements made to the greddy kit is making it easier to disassemble...
It gives me a moment rethink the FI setup...
Has anyone ever reversed the direction of the headers? Meaning install them so they send exhaust to the front of the car? On the surface it appears the passenger side mounts on the drivers side and ports line up? Is Meatbags setup forward facing?
Just stumbled upon your for sale thread. With your fab skills, I'd love to see what you come up with for running a big single.
Yea - horse in front of the cart at this point...unfortunately I dont have the cash to start a single turbo without parting out the greddy twins first. I'm rather torn too with parting out the setup as I feel rather rooted to the kit...maybe someone picks it up sooner rather than later and the kit can be someone's opening chapter...
My napkin sketch:
reversed headers will only work if I revamp the engine mounting brackets ... ie the brackets between the engine mounts and block conflicts ... I have a neat concept in my head but I dont know if I can create it without a CNC.
I did get the block out (relatively) easier than I anticipated. Took the trans with it and got everything on the ground. Got into the heads and on first pass it appears the valve train is ok. Nothing out of the ordinary other than some weird staining on my lobs. I'll have the heads machined before they get reinstalled. No metal remanence or scratches on my valve-lifters or cams.
is there enough room in between the radiator and front of the engine for a turbo? I think its less than a foot on my car and i have stock radiator. If looking to go single why not follow boosted performances idea and go a mid mount?
is there enough room in between the radiator and front of the engine for a turbo? I think its less than a foot on my car and i have stock radiator. If looking to go single why not follow boosted performances idea and go a mid mount?
Likely there will be enough room - my radiator sits in-front of the OEM crash-rails, I have no AC condenser, no fan shroud and a 2" deep fan. I estimate I have 12" - 15" between the front of the block and back of the radiator.
the boosted performance setup is pretty nice and has a great reputation(and nothing against them) but Id like to accomplish a few things with this new setup:
#1 - I want to minimize the amount of hot and cold side piping lengths and reduce the amount of bends/turns in the hot and cold side piping to reduce turbo / compression lag
#2 - I want the turbo and waste gates easily accessible in situations where I need to remove / check on them
#3 - I like the idea of running a 90* bend and a 3" stick of exhaust out the hood to minimize turbo back-pressure(for special events)
#4 - I don't like the idea of relying on a pump to circulate oil in & out of the turbo
#5 - I don't like the air filter pulling it's intake charge from the bottom side of the car
#6 - I don't like the turbo / oil lines being subjected to road debris / road hazards
The sketch does have some inheritant flaws - I don't think I can run the pipe from the cold side turbo to the inlet of the intercooler over the radiator ... this may have to enter off the passenger side. Also I will need to find a place to source intake from not behind the radiator.
Got everything taken down tonight - pretty good outlook right now ... pistons all appear to be in fine condition other than some carbon buildup on the top face. Rods all appear to be find with the exception of cylinder #4 (which sustained the bearing failure). I'm going to assume #4 is salvaged-out and will become a garage trophy but it wouldnt surprise me if a machinist said it could be cleaned up and reinstalled. I got on Pauters website and they do sell single replacement rods and they do have a full set of VQDE rods in their clearance section - might be a good to buy a full set so if I lose another rod down the road I have backups. Both good news. The block appears to be fine - I cannot see any scratches or scares on any of the main supports/girdle sections. I am fairly sure the crank is toasted as well. The journals may be able to be ground down and cleaned up but I think the shop/labor cost to do so would exceed the cost of a replacement crank...and, I have a crank ready to go from block #2. Heads looked good too nothing out of the ordinary.
Bearing on cylinder #4
For reference - cylinder #3
Journal #4 on the crank
yea - watching the broncs / cards ... looks like the cards are hurting these days. I really like Larry Fitzgerald and would love to see him get a ring before he retires.
10-07-2018, 02:24 PM
