Question about ST kits and their quality
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Hello, I've been doing furious research on ST kits available for the VQ35DE in the market...
So far I've found a lot of reviews of Momentum, S&R, BP and Turbonetics.
I understand that BP kit is a different beast (being mid mounted and all) and I don't trust myself with this kit since I had personal experience of eating a boulder of a rock going under the car, which tore up everything below the drive shaft (thank god). I obviously do not have the ability to dodge a rock on the road....
Out of all the top mounted kits, Turbonetics had the worst reviews of all, mostly regarding the issue of "dated design" and "wrong/restrictive pipings". Could somebody explain to me SPECIFICALLY what that actually represents? Is it simply the size of the piping? Is it the route it takes? Has anyone who had their kit installed PROFESSIONALLY (not DIY) had issue with quality of the piping? I see that S&R kit is pretty much a replica of the Momentum kit (correct me if I'm wrong), and the only difference I noticed between Turbonetics and Momentum is the fact that Momentum kit requires removal of the coolant reservoir since it takes a different path from the intercooler.
I am asking this WITHOUT your opinion on the quality or performance of the different turbos (Garrette, Turbonetics, Precision etc.) itself.
So far I've found a lot of reviews of Momentum, S&R, BP and Turbonetics.
I understand that BP kit is a different beast (being mid mounted and all) and I don't trust myself with this kit since I had personal experience of eating a boulder of a rock going under the car, which tore up everything below the drive shaft (thank god). I obviously do not have the ability to dodge a rock on the road....
Out of all the top mounted kits, Turbonetics had the worst reviews of all, mostly regarding the issue of "dated design" and "wrong/restrictive pipings". Could somebody explain to me SPECIFICALLY what that actually represents? Is it simply the size of the piping? Is it the route it takes? Has anyone who had their kit installed PROFESSIONALLY (not DIY) had issue with quality of the piping? I see that S&R kit is pretty much a replica of the Momentum kit (correct me if I'm wrong), and the only difference I noticed between Turbonetics and Momentum is the fact that Momentum kit requires removal of the coolant reservoir since it takes a different path from the intercooler.
I am asking this WITHOUT your opinion on the quality or performance of the different turbos (Garrette, Turbonetics, Precision etc.) itself.
weld quality and tube material were the structural issues with the turbonetics. The redesigned the wastegate pipe to address that. The physical size of the tubing on the turbonetics is smaller than the momentum/S&R. Its absolutely adequate for a stock block. I you never have intentions of building your block, its perfect.
Most people want expandability, hence the development of the momentum/S&R with larger tubing and better components.
Most people want expandability, hence the development of the momentum/S&R with larger tubing and better components.
Rich is on point with his post. My TN kit cracked the welds on the up pipe at the mount point. Then there was the issue with the AC line frying itself on the turbo. Fun kit, but zero chance to get more out of it.
Momentum has closed, so forget parts and support w/o headaches.
Why a single kit? Why not TT?
Momentum has closed, so forget parts and support w/o headaches.
Why a single kit? Why not TT?
I don't have any experience with Tubo kits or even SOHO Motorsports but from what I can see they make an awesome product. I've had my eye on their kit since they first released info on it. I'm a track rat and they have my respect because of the G35 time attack car that they built a run. Anyways here is a link to some info.
http://www.sohomotorsports.com/turbo.php
And when you are done drooling you can buy it here:
http://sohomotorsports.rpmware.com/s.../i-580295.aspx
http://www.sohomotorsports.com/turbo.php
And when you are done drooling you can buy it here:
http://sohomotorsports.rpmware.com/s.../i-580295.aspx
I’ve been running a PowerLab ST kit for about 3 years now & my brother had his PL kit for over 5… never had an issue with the kit, install was simple too…
Wow, looking at the soho kit though… $8k! Lol, I’d rather get Greddy twins for the money…
Wow, looking at the soho kit though… $8k! Lol, I’d rather get Greddy twins for the money…
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weld quality and tube material were the structural issues with the turbonetics. The redesigned the wastegate pipe to address that. The physical size of the tubing on the turbonetics is smaller than the momentum/S&R. Its absolutely adequate for a stock block. I you never have intentions of building your block, its perfect.
Most people want expandability, hence the development of the momentum/S&R with larger tubing and better components.
Most people want expandability, hence the development of the momentum/S&R with larger tubing and better components.
You know.. Ease of install, easy maintenance and I can actually see and understand what the hell is happening to my engine. (taking apart a single turbo kit takes less than an hour most of the time). Also if I ever want to improve it, it'll be cheaper/easier. I'm not trying to make 1000whp here. lol
I could.... or just buy a kit that I don't have to worry about no matter what happens at the bottom of my car. (My car is lowered)
Hmm... I'll look into that...
you definitely need to relearn how to drive before looking into fi obviously. if your worried about damaging BP's kit from hitting stuff then you need to worry about ripping holes in your floor boards and frame rails, and damaging your transmission since all of those items are about equal level or lower then the turbo components. ive driven over spots then come to a point in the road(tree branchs growing under it) and never scraped except for the wastegate dump and thats because i have it mounted differently then it was designed for.
Last edited by jerryd87; Feb 12, 2013 at 03:42 PM.
My car is low and I have no issues with BP Kit. The kit sits above your subframe so you'd lose your whole cars bottom if you happen to hit the Kit... LOL Best purchase I've made in a long time with amazing customer service from Sasha. The craftsmanship and quality of material is second to none. Top notch components and he even lets you tweak the kit to your needs before purchasing. Can't say enough on how awesome this kit is and all the Pros vs Cons this kit offers. There's a reason why those of us who've owned a BP kit are so Fanatic about it. It is hands down the best kit for the money... Period!
By the way... amazing performance as well. John at Z1 Motorsports was impressed with how the kit performed while he tuned it. Check out the Link below...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater
463whp/424tq (Stock Block, MotorDyne 5/16th Plenum Spacer - No Headers) @ just under 10psi on DynoJet
By the way... amazing performance as well. John at Z1 Motorsports was impressed with how the kit performed while he tuned it. Check out the Link below...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater
463whp/424tq (Stock Block, MotorDyne 5/16th Plenum Spacer - No Headers) @ just under 10psi on DynoJet
Last edited by Drako_MDx; Feb 12, 2013 at 05:13 PM.
To be honest, this is very common. Every time a shop that has tuned other ST kits gets a chance to tune the BP kit, this is the feedback I get. Credit that to the T4 turbine housings used with this kit.
I am glad to see all my customers happy with the kit (about 40 now). There will always be skeptics with this kit, and people thinking that it sits low. That is fine, everybody has an opinion.
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you definitely need to relearn how to drive before looking into fi obviously. if your worried about damaging BP's kit from hitting stuff then you need to worry about ripping holes in your floor boards and frame rails, and damaging your transmission since all of those items are about equal level or lower then the turbo components. ive driven over spots then come to a point in the road(tree branchs growing under it) and never scraped except for the wastegate dump and thats because i have it mounted differently then it was designed for.
Because you might be a superhero.
To be honest, this is very common. Every time a shop that has tuned other ST kits gets a chance to tune the BP kit, this is the feedback I get. Credit that to the T4 turbine housings used with this kit.
I am glad to see all my customers happy with the kit (about 40 now). There will always be skeptics with this kit, and people thinking that it sits low. That is fine, everybody has an opinion.
I am glad to see all my customers happy with the kit (about 40 now). There will always be skeptics with this kit, and people thinking that it sits low. That is fine, everybody has an opinion.
The problem I had wasn't that my car bottomed out, scratching up the underside of the frame or my subframe took a hit. A ROCK got UNDER the car, and shot around it while it was in there. A ROCK big enough to cause damage tend to not sit perfectly still waiting for the frame to take a hit when you drive over it (I wish it did). It bent up my Borla exhaust (The resonator muffler, which is BEHIND the M brace, and the rear muffler that is WAAAYY above the ground). Keep in mind that Borla exhaust uses austenitic stainless steel and your turbo kit uses 409 stainless which is inferior and less durable to impact. I can say that it was ENTIRELY my fault, and not the design of the exhaust (like how your turbo kit is DESIGNED to not bottom out), but things happen in life. And if it were to happen again, I'd rather it be my 1 grand exhaust than 6 grand turbo kit.
As brilliant as your kit is, (and it really is) I had personal experience that prevents me from thinking it will be bullet proof to random occurrence that can happen on the road. Majority of the people will have great experience with your kit without any concern or complain in its placement. Chances are I'm just overeating to a situation that only happened once in my life time. But the experience I personally had with my exhaust helped me learn the hard way what could potentially happen when road condition is not in the "norm".
you wont bend the trans but you will shatter it since its cast just as easy as you will bend that pipe both of which are going to be difficult and require a VERY large rock due to the fact they are not mounted rigidly. that same rock is also going to have to go through your bumper, intercooler, core support, oil pain, front cross member, cross member support, and like i said before the front of your transmission because ALL of these things are as low as the turbo(several lower) and in front of it protecting it.
not going to bend the frame either but you can rip it, and you would have to rip it in order to get to the piping, if a 4 inch tall peak in the road(as in the center of the lane is 4 inchs taller then the outside where your wheels ride because of a tree root growing under it) dosnt even touh the turbo or piping you have to be pretty shitty at driving or rock crawling to damage anything under there. based on your original post i say again learn to drive before attempting FI, i could care less about you rolling or wrapping it around a telephone pole but theres no reason to endanger other drivers from your failing, personally if your that bad a driver to be able to "tore up everything below the drive shaft" then you need to be driving a civic anyway.
i could care less what you buy the point is learn to drive if you cant handle the car now you dont need FI, its your own fault you damaged your car since you obviously where driving a sportcar somewhere you shouldnt have been.
you can dislike what i say if you want dosnt really bother me i never claimed to be a nice person but its pretty obvious your going to have issues no matter what you do
not going to bend the frame either but you can rip it, and you would have to rip it in order to get to the piping, if a 4 inch tall peak in the road(as in the center of the lane is 4 inchs taller then the outside where your wheels ride because of a tree root growing under it) dosnt even touh the turbo or piping you have to be pretty shitty at driving or rock crawling to damage anything under there. based on your original post i say again learn to drive before attempting FI, i could care less about you rolling or wrapping it around a telephone pole but theres no reason to endanger other drivers from your failing, personally if your that bad a driver to be able to "tore up everything below the drive shaft" then you need to be driving a civic anyway.
i could care less what you buy the point is learn to drive if you cant handle the car now you dont need FI, its your own fault you damaged your car since you obviously where driving a sportcar somewhere you shouldnt have been.
you can dislike what i say if you want dosnt really bother me i never claimed to be a nice person but its pretty obvious your going to have issues no matter what you do
Try bending a pipe. Now try bending your transmission. Now try bending your frame. Let me know if you can do the latter 2 of these things with a rock you find on the road.
Because you might be a superhero.
I am not a skeptic of your kit. I read through all of your building process threads and was amazed at how you started from scratch to make a such an efficient turbo kit. (I wanted to make one... then I realized I have no where near the fabrication/welding skill as you...). I know that your turbo kit sits above the frame rail. I am aware it is water/scratch proof unless I drove over a lake.
The problem I had wasn't that my car bottomed out, scratching up the underside of the frame or my subframe took a hit. A ROCK got UNDER the car, and shot around it while it was in there. A ROCK big enough to cause damage tend to not sit perfectly still waiting for the frame to take a hit when you drive over it (I wish it did). It bent up my Borla exhaust (The resonator muffler, which is BEHIND the M brace, and the rear muffler that is WAAAYY above the ground). Keep in mind that Borla exhaust uses austenitic stainless steel and your turbo kit uses 409 stainless which is inferior and less durable to impact. I can say that it was ENTIRELY my fault, and not the design of the exhaust (like how your turbo kit is DESIGNED to not bottom out), but things happen in life. And if it were to happen again, I'd rather it be my 1 grand exhaust than 6 grand turbo kit.
As brilliant as your kit is, (and it really is) I had personal experience that prevents me from thinking it will be bullet proof to random occurrence that can happen on the road. Majority of the people will have great experience with your kit without any concern or complain in its placement. Chances are I'm just overeating to a situation that only happened once in my life time. But the experience I personally had with my exhaust helped me learn the hard way what could potentially happen when road condition is not in the "norm".
Because you might be a superhero.
I am not a skeptic of your kit. I read through all of your building process threads and was amazed at how you started from scratch to make a such an efficient turbo kit. (I wanted to make one... then I realized I have no where near the fabrication/welding skill as you...). I know that your turbo kit sits above the frame rail. I am aware it is water/scratch proof unless I drove over a lake.
The problem I had wasn't that my car bottomed out, scratching up the underside of the frame or my subframe took a hit. A ROCK got UNDER the car, and shot around it while it was in there. A ROCK big enough to cause damage tend to not sit perfectly still waiting for the frame to take a hit when you drive over it (I wish it did). It bent up my Borla exhaust (The resonator muffler, which is BEHIND the M brace, and the rear muffler that is WAAAYY above the ground). Keep in mind that Borla exhaust uses austenitic stainless steel and your turbo kit uses 409 stainless which is inferior and less durable to impact. I can say that it was ENTIRELY my fault, and not the design of the exhaust (like how your turbo kit is DESIGNED to not bottom out), but things happen in life. And if it were to happen again, I'd rather it be my 1 grand exhaust than 6 grand turbo kit.
As brilliant as your kit is, (and it really is) I had personal experience that prevents me from thinking it will be bullet proof to random occurrence that can happen on the road. Majority of the people will have great experience with your kit without any concern or complain in its placement. Chances are I'm just overeating to a situation that only happened once in my life time. But the experience I personally had with my exhaust helped me learn the hard way what could potentially happen when road condition is not in the "norm".
Last edited by jerryd87; Feb 12, 2013 at 11:04 PM.
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you wont bend the trans but you will shatter it since its cast just as easy as you will bend that pipe both of which are going to be difficult and require a VERY large rock due to the fact they are not mounted rigidly. that same rock is also going to have to go through your bumper, intercooler, core support, oil pain, front cross member, cross member support, and like i said before the front of your transmission because ALL of these things are as low as the turbo(several lower) and in front of it protecting it.
not going to bend the frame either but you can rip it, and you would have to rip it in order to get to the piping, if a 4 inch tall peak in the road(as in the center of the lane is 4 inchs taller then the outside where your wheels ride because of a tree root growing under it) dosnt even touh the turbo or piping you have to be pretty shitty at driving or rock crawling to damage anything under there. based on your original post i say again learn to drive before attempting FI, i could care less about you rolling or wrapping it around a telephone pole but theres no reason to endanger other drivers from your failing, personally if your that bad a driver to be able to "tore up everything below the drive shaft" then you need to be driving a civic anyway.
i could care less what you buy the point is learn to drive if you cant handle the car now you dont need FI, its your own fault you damaged your car since you obviously where driving a sportcar somewhere you shouldnt have been.
you can dislike what i say if you want dosnt really bother me i never claimed to be a nice person but its pretty obvious your going to have issues no matter what you do
not going to bend the frame either but you can rip it, and you would have to rip it in order to get to the piping, if a 4 inch tall peak in the road(as in the center of the lane is 4 inchs taller then the outside where your wheels ride because of a tree root growing under it) dosnt even touh the turbo or piping you have to be pretty shitty at driving or rock crawling to damage anything under there. based on your original post i say again learn to drive before attempting FI, i could care less about you rolling or wrapping it around a telephone pole but theres no reason to endanger other drivers from your failing, personally if your that bad a driver to be able to "tore up everything below the drive shaft" then you need to be driving a civic anyway.
i could care less what you buy the point is learn to drive if you cant handle the car now you dont need FI, its your own fault you damaged your car since you obviously where driving a sportcar somewhere you shouldnt have been.
you can dislike what i say if you want dosnt really bother me i never claimed to be a nice person but its pretty obvious your going to have issues no matter what you do
]I am not a skeptic of your kit. I read through all of your building process threads and was amazed at how you started from scratch to make a such an efficient turbo kit. (I wanted to make one... then I realized I have no where near the fabrication/welding skill as you...). I know that your turbo kit sits above the frame rail. I am aware it is water/scratch proof unless I drove over a lake.
The problem I had wasn't that my car bottomed out, scratching up the underside of the frame or my subframe took a hit. A ROCK got UNDER the car, and shot around it while it was in there. A ROCK big enough to cause damage tend to not sit perfectly still waiting for the frame to take a hit when you drive over it (I wish it did). It bent up my Borla exhaust (The resonator muffler, which is BEHIND the M brace, and the rear muffler that is WAAAYY above the ground). Keep in mind that Borla exhaust uses austenitic stainless steel and your turbo kit uses 409 stainless which is inferior and less durable to impact. I can say that it was ENTIRELY my fault, and not the design of the exhaust (like how your turbo kit is DESIGNED to not bottom out), but things happen in life. And if it were to happen again, I'd rather it be my 1 grand exhaust than 6 grand turbo kit.
As brilliant as your kit is, (and it really is) I had personal experience that prevents me from thinking it will be bullet proof to random occurrence that can happen on the road. Majority of the people will have great experience with your kit without any concern or complain in its placement. Chances are I'm just overeating to a situation that only happened once in my life time. But the experience I personally had with my exhaust helped me learn the hard way what could potentially happen when road condition is not in the "norm".
The problem I had wasn't that my car bottomed out, scratching up the underside of the frame or my subframe took a hit. A ROCK got UNDER the car, and shot around it while it was in there. A ROCK big enough to cause damage tend to not sit perfectly still waiting for the frame to take a hit when you drive over it (I wish it did). It bent up my Borla exhaust (The resonator muffler, which is BEHIND the M brace, and the rear muffler that is WAAAYY above the ground). Keep in mind that Borla exhaust uses austenitic stainless steel and your turbo kit uses 409 stainless which is inferior and less durable to impact. I can say that it was ENTIRELY my fault, and not the design of the exhaust (like how your turbo kit is DESIGNED to not bottom out), but things happen in life. And if it were to happen again, I'd rather it be my 1 grand exhaust than 6 grand turbo kit.
As brilliant as your kit is, (and it really is) I had personal experience that prevents me from thinking it will be bullet proof to random occurrence that can happen on the road. Majority of the people will have great experience with your kit without any concern or complain in its placement. Chances are I'm just overeating to a situation that only happened once in my life time. But the experience I personally had with my exhaust helped me learn the hard way what could potentially happen when road condition is not in the "norm".
I understand that you had an incident that left you with a bad memory...and I am not trying to sell you a kit here...just wanted to point out that the components do sit up higher than most people think. Guys will damage the OEM flex pipes on the OEM Y-pipe before installing the kit, but never have issues with the kit/clearances.
Also, the piping is 304 stainless...

Good luck with whatever kit you end up purchasing.
Last edited by Boosted Performance; Feb 13, 2013 at 05:12 AM.
Before you even consider SOHO turbo kit read this.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...st-review.html
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...st-review.html
So you're too low to run even a bolt in exhaust?
A FI Z isn't something to scoff at, and running it slammed silly is going to be terrible.
You really should decide whether you want form or function.
Get rid of the "hella low" and "hella camber", that ish just won't fly with this chassis when boosted.
You should start to realize why the hella-flush crew is the most frowned upon fad in recent years. It's not only un street friendly, but dangerous, especially when you add power.
A FI Z isn't something to scoff at, and running it slammed silly is going to be terrible.
You really should decide whether you want form or function.
Get rid of the "hella low" and "hella camber", that ish just won't fly with this chassis when boosted.
You should start to realize why the hella-flush crew is the most frowned upon fad in recent years. It's not only un street friendly, but dangerous, especially when you add power.
So you're too low to run even a bolt in exhaust?
A FI Z isn't something to scoff at, and running it slammed silly is going to be terrible.
You really should decide whether you want form or function.
Get rid of the "hella low" and "hella camber", that ish just won't fly with this chassis when boosted.
You should start to realize why the hella-flush crew is the most frowned upon fad in recent years. It's not only un street friendly, but dangerous, especially when you add power.
A FI Z isn't something to scoff at, and running it slammed silly is going to be terrible.
You really should decide whether you want form or function.
Get rid of the "hella low" and "hella camber", that ish just won't fly with this chassis when boosted.
You should start to realize why the hella-flush crew is the most frowned upon fad in recent years. It's not only un street friendly, but dangerous, especially when you add power.
Resmarted,
that hella flush movement is growing alot down in south florida and its just
i dint even think about hellaflush i dint think anyone was dumb enough to actually try increased power+less tire contact patch guess nothing should suprise me though. op if your one of those hella*** guys then please do boost your car with a cheap kit so we can laught at you when you crash. mayby if we are lucky you will jump into a fire while your at it.
if your not one of those people then ignore the above.
if your not one of those people then ignore the above.
i dint even think about hellaflush i dint think anyone was dumb enough to actually try increased power+less tire contact patch guess nothing should suprise me though. op if your one of those hella*** guys then please do boost your car with a cheap kit so we can laught at you when you crash. mayby if we are lucky you will jump into a fire while your at it.
if your not one of those people then ignore the above.
if your not one of those people then ignore the above.
Either that or he needs to stop driving his Z into rock gardens at 60 mph.



