ace32x

iTrader: (10)

Hahahaha

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

OP is a cuckold

fly350z

Awwww did you miss me? Well because no one thinks she is my girl ill post a lil pic of her kissing me goodbye as im leaving for my deployment, If you had ever met us or were friends with us on our personal FB pages you would know this and no matter what her modeling pics look like she is not a ***** like all you want her to be, she loves me alot and tells me everyday and we will be together for a long time. Just because your wifes a H*e and you cant trust her doesnt mean mine is. The build is hers to do while im away but yes i am helping her with the research and im ordering the parts to send her. Just because its her car doesnt mean i cant help out and that im not going to drive it too. Everyone here just wants to talk s**t about whatever I do so with that being said, I talked to some well known performance shops that have done some 800hp+ Zs and they gave me a new game plan which sould yeild 500whp+ and be reliable as a daily at 450whp also it will be in $8k budget whats the plan you ask? well im going to tell you but im sure it will be stupid to you. It made perfect sence to me and dont know why i didnt think of it. So the plan is to use the TN kit and upgrade the wastegate to a larger atmospheric dump, install HKS bov and heat wrap all the piping in the engine bay, building the motor to support 600whp and go for 450whp on the TN kit as a daily but also using my 50 shot of N2O iv had on the car the past year to give me the power i want at the track. Its all about the tune and the guy that said he wanted to do it has done more Zs than any other shop I know of... I will be posting the pics she sends me of the progress to show everyone that a low cost 500whp build is possible for the average guys. In the future I will upgrade to a twin turbo or momentum kit but for now this will do just fine.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Did I just step into a Jerry Springer show?

Phillip_G35

iTrader: (1)

LMAO

blue350zed

iTrader: (14)

In for pics of heat wrap.

fly350z

I told her to do all the piping like this and there should be no problems. she should get all the heat wrapping done this week.

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

So she's handling all of the pipes...











... pun intended.

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

What shops did you speak with? I would like to confer if they would back this information up.

What exactly is a 600whp motor... In any case maybe with 100+ Shot of Nitrous to hit 500 whp... Why? Do you know whats involved in a reliable high hp nitrous setup... Might as well just buy a nice turbo setup and stop ***** footing around.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

lol im calling bs for damn sure, even doing the labor yourself if you know how to blueprint a engine your going to be looking at about 5k-5k5 to do the engine PROPERLY without cams. add in the $1500 for the turbo kit you bought, and your at 6k5-7k you havnt touched a new clutch, fuel system, tuning, wheels/tires because what you have on there now isnt going to hold. heres a secret stretched tires + power= telephone pole. people come in here all the time commenting "omg you guys suck and dont know what your talking about you can totally do it like this" and EVERY time they eat there words and vanish forever because they look like retards trying to tell a bunch of people who have already done it that they are wrong.

THAT is why they are ****ing with you because you still seem to think you know better then the rest. dont know any of the good shops that would recommend keeping the TN kit either so def BS

fly350z

Im not dragging any shops into this and the engine parts listed will make a ~600whp capable motor. You must not know anything about nitrous because 35 shot of N2O on a turbo charged engine will yield about 50hp gain due to the extra cooling of the intake charge makeing the turbo way more efficient. We have been running a 100shot of nitrous on the stock block for over a year with plenty of bottles used and no issues once so ever, I had my N2O setup done up right, not just some cheap pay and spray setup, it has all the safety precautions installed and is a fly by wire setup so it only sprays at WOT. We have other plans for the deployment money so im going this route cause I already have a TN kit and my N2O setup.

RudeG_v2.0

iTrader: (1)

O'RLY? Name these shops and the guy that wants to do your build or I call bull$h!t.

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

Nitrous is one thing, Turbo is another, together they can be beneficial. Use for Spool, Adiabatic Cooling and great torque curves.

I wont argue, but this is horribly under budgeted. Maybe next time after you blow your first built motor from head lift you'll stop being short sighted. Good luck still being slower than Zs on just boost and pump gas.

Edit: What tracks?

Are you just drag racing? I wasn't aware that you were even allowed at a real track *ahem* road course with Nitrous.

RudeG_v2.0

iTrader: (1)

Because you're a fawking liar. No reputable or knowledgeable shop in the VQ community would recommend the Turbonetics kit. I bet the conversation went more along the lines of "If you insist on using the Turbonetics kit...".

LOL that you think your BS is fooling anyone. Obvious NOOB is obvious.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

some of them, arp standard head studs wont its been proven that stock hr studs are about as good as arp 2000's, you dint mention a new crank pulley(ati or fluidamper not required for below 500-550 but HIGHLY recommedned), nor girdle or oil control baffle again not needed but stupid to try for any sort of reliability without them. theres lots of things you dint mention that you WILL have to get odds and ends that only cost a few bucks up to $30 bucks each alone will add a couple grand to your cost. no one can think of everything all at once. no one was claiming those pistons or rods couldnt they are pointing out your complete ignorance in thinking your list is the only things you will need.

one again people come in all the time with "omg i can do it cheaper" and fail miserably and look like retards.

my bet is the same as rude that your full of crap i made points to try and be helpful but thats done because your obviously another ricer dreamer who is going to destroy there car and then be all butt hurt "omfg those cars suck" when it was your own ignorance and hard headedness that did it to you.

fly350z

I never said they recomended the TN kit they just said it could be used reliably if i wanted to uprade it a lil. When its all over you will know who tuned it and what the results are. You just want it to fail thats all. I dont mind going over my budget a little im just not looking to put another 6~7k into the turbo kit at this moment. I have alot of parts already and im not counting them, im talking from this point forward. Im probably missing some stuff but some of the cost are.

$3000 Built short block with
Wiseco Pistons .020 over friends
Eagle/SCAT H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced and blue-printed
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings
New Moly coated Race Spec rod bearings
$250 NIB from member ARP main and head studs
$350 HKS head gasket
$266 OEM gasket set
$400 JWT clutch with
New Throw-out Bearing
New Pilot Bearing or Bushing
Have Already Turbonetics 60-1 Stage 5 .77 A/R Turbocharger kit
$300 44mm Wastegate
$200 HKS bov
$195 VQ35DE Pathfinder Cooling Mod Kit
Have Already DC Sports headers
Have Already Z1 Motorsports plenum spacer
$850AAM Competition Fuel Return Kit
Have Already Walbro Fuel pump
$300 Deatschwerks 600cc Top Feed Injectors
Have Already UpRev by Osiris
Have Already Innovate MTX-L Wideband Air/Fuel Gauge
Free 52mm JDM 2" Boost Psi Gauge
$1000 for odds and ends

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

The "I'm not a complete douchebag dreamer" way to build a car anywhere close to those goals list:

Block:
Dynosty Girdle
Pauter Rods, because the increased torque loading from excess nitrous ~1200
CP Pistons (special up charge for coating for nitrous) ~ 850
ARP Main Studs ~ $150
ACL Main & Rod Bearings ~$300
ARP Rod Bolts ~ $100
ARP L19s $500
Cosworth Head gasket $300
Revup Oil Pump $200
ATI Damper $400
Oil Pan Spacer Return Setup $150
Machine Work ~$600
Assembly $750

Lets assume stock heads:
Machine work and Assembly
Checking Valve Seals, maybe a high mileage refresh, or replacing parts that show wear from repeated use of N20

$Say 400-500 budget on heads for refresh.

Clutch & Flywheel Setup to Support 550+ ft/lbs plus install $1K

Fuel System
Injector Dynamics ID 1000s $600
Walbro 485 $200
Stage 1 Return Fuel System $850

ECU / Tuning
If the car is going to stay together will all this fancy Turbonetics Unicorn NOS BS you'll need something like a Haltech to hold it together. Tuning is worth more than any specific part.

Haltech Platinum Pro PNP W/ Wideband Kit
$2600

Tuning
$500-750 depending how difficult it is to hit that magic number and keep it safe with nitrous.

Boost Control, best would be a Haltech BCS $100
Then you might as well do the Haltech Flex Fuel Option, So Haltech E85 Sensor. $250

Additional $400 for more tuning

Gauges
Boost: $75
Wideband Display $200

This is a bare minimum assuming you already have a turbo setup that isnt **** like the one you have, it also doesnt include a cosworth intake manifold, good exhaust, new axles, oil, trans fluid, a radiator you'll want to upgrade, radiator fluid, any labor on anything other than motor assembly and tuning. Not to mention new fittings, jet kits, and nitrous lines for the nitrous to be plumbed as a direct port.

The fabrication to make the TN kit worthwhile, hell the heat wrap is probably at least 200 to do the engine bay... All of this money to hit a goal that is not recommended to even try because you are too stubborn to listen.

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

fixed

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

Lets be real for a second, the turbo kit is one part... just one part of a build. You wouldn't build an entire house because you have a couch to put in it. No, buy the parts to support the motor. The turbo kit is a drop in the bucket to having to do this twice. You blow a motor all of these parts are garbage. Just go install the TN kit on a basic built motor and stick with 350whp and shut the hell up with this non-sense. Then when you can afford to do it right... Come back looking for help, Next time with NUDES of hot GF.

fly350z

I posted awhile back Im not trying for 600hp or 550ft-tq anymore, I did listen to everyone and have lowered my goals to a much more achievable 500whp 450ft-tq on spray and 450whp 400ft-tq from the TN kit. I agree 100% that Im never going to get the power I once thought was possible, atleast not without spending big bucks to do it right. I just want a fun street car for me and my wife to drive around to car events