The guys at CIN are making me something...Ive seen pictures of other cars they have done and that has turned out pretty good...

 

If you don't mind posting the routing on here when u get it back that'd be awesome. For now I'm going to run filters off both valve covers see how that goes.

 

I guess it wouldn't be my first motor build if it cranked right up first try. So gurus help me out if possible. Car cranks. Little engine that could starts up if you really feather the gas but sounds horrible like a misfire every second then shuts off. Strong smell of gas. Did pull 1 plug to see if it sparked w coil pack on and it did, not enough spark maybe? Thought about maybe we miss aligned the flywheel but to my understanding if this was the case it wouldn't start at all? Also what's really weird is on my kinetix ssv plenum the very last bank tube gets hot and its the only 1 that's hot

 

so after some research it sounds like we misaligned the flywheel, rookie mistake. either that or the crank position sensor is in properly shimmed or spaced from the flywheel. have read alot of that happening but im leaning more towards flywheel alignment. if it was aligned incorrectly this could explain why the timing is so messed up and its bogging/backfiring. also maybe why its not throwing a code. however i did try disconnecting the camshaft position sensor and car still doesnt run right. does this all sound like a misaligned fly?

 

Codes?
I just had a cam sensor go, and the car would crank but not fire. P0340 I believe it was. Just before it wouldn't start, the car was "stuttering" while cruising, like an ignition cut.

 

No codes starts after some throttle but very very rough and backfires a lot as if timing is wayyyyy off

 

OK so got the starting issue done. crank position sensor was not spaced correctly (i had installed the wrong o ring on it. removed o ring, started right up)

now the built long block is running jwt C2 cams and idles real nice however requires some throttle to get started and if you revv the motor it will cut off. i also seem to have a vacuum leak as my gauge is only reading 8-10 vac and before on other motor i had almost 20. car obviously hasnt been tuned w this low comp motor or the cams could this be causing the starting requiring throttle and the car shutting off after revs? will be pulling SSV manifold to check for leaks. couldnt find any on visual and air compressor inspection. the manifold is kinda hard to torque down w a hex esp w the bolts closer to the firewall. could vac leak cause motor to cut off after a rev? long as you dont rev car it idles fine sounds amazing no lights ETC ETC

here is a video of the exhaust note w the cams:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

 

Can anyone w a recently built motor confirm vac pressure? Kyle from IPP said motor may read lower vac till fully broken in. I will be trying a smoke test today to be sure. Also anyone with a built motor and cams have any issues pre tune with start up and idling? Car idles good but requires throttle to start and to stay on if revved

 

bigger the cam, the less vac. yours could be entirely within spec. My C2 cams still pulled -18", but my C8's only pull -14"

if you idle is steady, then its not a leak, and thats going to be normal for your car.

 

This is valuable information. I was wondering why my idle is steady on startup, but my vacuum is lower than stock. However, I'm still chasing gremlins when the car starts to get warm.

 

great info! thanks guys. car is running great. idle AFR moved from 14.5-14.9 very steady. special thanks to timrod (oldmanZ) for answering all my questions constantly and to everyone else who has helped along the way. burped the coolant today so prob first drive tom now to keep my foot out of her for 750 miles like IPP suggest then bring her to Z1 to have john tune her and she how she does on the ego booster ;-)

 

Congrats!! Sounds like things went pretty smooth. My block finally arrived to my shop today, im hoping they jump into it running. Now put some miles on her and get that tuned!

 

Oh damn... John is going to have fun tuning her. John from Z1 is one of those few tuners who actually enjoy getting the most out of each car instead of just collecting your money and giving you a crap generic tune.

 

I have heard a lot of good. He told me it didn't need the 750 miles that IPP suggested said 5 heat cycles was all it needed but since the engine builder says it I'm going to just do the 750 then bring it up there, excited. First drive was yesterday and it feels pretty good

 

yes i had to cut the bumper and reflector completely off aswell as open the hole more. but it fits so much better here. and looks cool 2 :-)

 

so after chatting with tim ive decided to up my fuel system a reasonable amount. sooo 1000cc injectors/ cjm stage 2 or simular fuel return and just picked up 350z006's fuel bucket with the 400 pump cant be running out of fuel once shes broken in.

 

Soooo....how soon do you need the 1000cc? I may be switching out of my ID1000's within the next month or two...

 

Very nice bud. Great DIY job. I like the location of your oil cooler.

Chris

 

if you need motivation to sell them now is the time haha. send me what you want for them and maybe u can just send them with the pump haha but im not in much of a rush just yet. i know theres a guy selling the deatch 1ks right now on g35 driver so i may pick those up since im running deatch 600s and already have the harness done so it would be plug n play. we will see.

 

Okie...injectors won't be available for at least a month, but if you're still looking at that point, we'll talk