well. the time has come much much sooner then expected. 2.87 pulley vorteched DE motor seems to be letting go. after tons n tons of track abuse. after my last day at the Florida international motorsports park in starke florida. i got massive amounts of blow by at WOT threw the breather attached to the driver side intake manifold. car also had random misfires. limped it home and pulled everything apart. at first thought it could be my valve cover spark plug well seals letting like most do frequently because the coil pack wells were literally full of oil. so naturally i bought new valve covers off the G forum for 300 shipped :-). after putting it all back together and going for a few hard pulls. this was the first sign of bad ju ju. tons n tons of smoke at WOT literally a smoke screen that filled the car everytime i went into boost. got back home pulled the coil packs out and sure enough oil filled the wells again. as well as oil getting pushed out of the filter on the driver side valve cover. so cleaned everything and began to imagine the worst. the compression test showed bad results. cylinder 2 and 4 (inline driver side) were both reading 90 psi with the rest of the cylinders reading near 160. now most would say headgasket but i was getting no water loss in radiator or overflow and car was not overheating even the slightest bit. but i was loosing oil very quickly. a few hard pulls would see about a half a quart low.

decided on IPP stage 2 long block with the JWT c2 cams and 928m impeller vortech

parts list goes as follows

Installed:
-IPP stage 2 long block specs
Wiseco Pistons .020 over (8:8:1 compression)
Eagle/SCAT H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed
New Moly coated Race Spec rod bearings installed
Block assembled
New OEM Head Gaskets (modified HR gasket for cooling)
Heads inspected and cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
JWT C2 camshafts
JWT Heavy Duty Valve Springs
5 angle radius cut valve job
New OEM Valve stem seals installed
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set for cams
Heads assembled
New OEM Rev-up Oil Pump
-CJM stage 2 fuel system with rails and fuel dampers
Walbro 400 fuel pump
Deatschwerk 1000cc injectors
-kinetix ssv intake manifold
-kinetix test pipes
-Topspeed header
-custom dual exhaust
- 1 step colder copper NGK plugs
Vortech V2 supercharger
- 928m upgraded impeller/ high-speed bearings/seals.( NOW ON A Ti trim blower)
- 2.87 supercharger pulley
-Gtm extra tension pulley
-timrod belt direction belt wrap
-timrod bracket radius rod
- Uprev GT MAF
- 1 piece larger maf tube
- Tial Q BOV
Mishimoto lower temp thermostat
Mocal oil cooler setup
Fluidampr crank pulley
-aam oil pan spacer (1 extra quart)
-Treadstone TR1245 intercooler (1450 CFMs)
Z1 poly motor and transmission mounts
Quaife LSD
928m impeller blew up car is now running TI trim blower makin 22-23psi should see 630-650whp


last time on the track with stock block

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AXg0...ature=youtu.be

http://www.flickr.com/photos/j-franco/8528924699/http://www.flickr.com/photos/j-franco/8528924699/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/j-franco/, on Flickr

bumper/hood pulled along with a couple other small things.

motor being pulled






Tial Q with the 2 psi spring (apparently big on the mustang/vette vortechs)


Triji's manfold (thanks again)


stuff piling up


Z1 poly engine/tranny mounts


pan spacer


new impeller and rebuild blower


with the Z down so long had to pull out the other toy.


old and new. IPP stage 2 long block came in today












before



after aligning and setting timing then spinning the crank bunch of times. smooth and tight





[QUOTE=Colombo;10139194]motor is in and things going smoothly.




fluidampr




Final numbers 608rwhp 446rwtq



as you can see it tears my 285 nitto NT05's like they had oil on them. shes a blast tho


this weekends autoX event

So set out to make a 4inch intake for this TI trim. Took alot of cutting and trimming but here it is.





Moar videos


UPDATE: start on page 18 for the updated BUILD with 10.0:1 compression

Just to update my actul thread. Car finally saw a dyno after a year on this tune/build. This is at 25psi on a ti trim see page 18 and on for the updated build


She made 706whp and 578wtq



Dyno was a dynocom (reads similar to dynojet)

 

I like option 2…but I am biased (a bit). I have Kyle's Stage 3 with JWT c2s and as of a month ago I had the ATI procharger SC kit. I have a harmonic dampener that helped put 13psi and earned 455whp. I like the c2s (although I am far from a expert, let alone a cam expert) and I believe they mesh well with the supercharger. At this time I also went with Stillen's headers and test pipes, which also complimented the higher psi, cams and the variable valve timing. I also like IPP because they have a options for different builds and I am sure he would substitute as requested.

I had a great customer experience with Kyle and IPP in general, I believe as most people had similar experiences. My transaction was pretty smooth with only a few minor hiccups, all of which were handled well. I've never bought from Z1 but I would suspect they are a first class operation based on their reputation.

 

So you want to run a vortech, with 2.87 pulley, and you plan on putting carillo's in it?

The amount of money that long block costs is ridiculous for what you want to build. If you want 500whp reliably you can easily use eagle rods. I would reccomend calling a shop that specializes in Z's. Top of my list is Dynosty. Tuner, Fabricator, and Machinist are all in house and do this every day all day. They can set you up with a reliable block and figure out the correct clearances for your goals. The thing that really determines how long a block lasts is essentially your clearances (aside from components).

BC 272's are good cams. If you want peak power, they're probably the best ones to go with (on a street car). But I think you may want to raise your rev limiter with those, and over about 7.5k you may want to look at a billet girdle/rev up oil pump/fluid damper (for max reliability). Dynosty has their own billet girdle which makes the stock one look like a joke.

That being said, I'd strongly recommend not getting carillo's and all these fancy pants parts... The difference in price is over a grand. For your goals, eagles would be more than adequate (provided they're installed by a good shop and correctly spec'd). Wisecos would also suffice. That is almost a 1 grand difference on their site. For just a vortech setup, that's more than good enough.

Lets say you want more power down the road, you should go for carillos. But, you also would want a different bearing set than one setup for 500hp.

If you need a usable core, pm me. I have one for sale and I know how to ship

 

who said carillos? this is what the imports parts pro long block includes. no fancy smancy anything.

Wiseco Pistons .020 over
Eagle/SCAT H Beam Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed
New Moly coated Race Spec rod bearings installed
Block assembled
New OEM Head Gaskets
Heads inspected and cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
JWT S1, S2, C2, or "S7 RevUp" Upgraded Cams
JWT Heavy Duty Valve Springs
5 angle radius cut valve job
New OEM Valve stem seals installed
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set for cams
Heads assembled
New OEM Rev-up Oil Pump

 

and i dont know anywhere else where u can get a fully assembled long block w this list for 5600 bucks plus 300 for shipping.. this is a great deal and kyle at ipp is nuts for selling it i think

 

the car already had the 287 vortech i dont want to run it i will be. ill put up a parts list of whats already done here soon.

 

resmarted if you dont mind sending me a pm about that core! would save me the 1500 core charge upfront

 

parts list goes as follows

Installed:
powerlab plenum spacer
kinetix test pipes
hks rep with magnaflow X pipe
oil catch
vortech v2 revised setup
2.87 pulley
uprev gt MAF
mocal oil cooler setup
GTM single pulley mod
1step colder plugs
AAM basic fuel return system
walbro 255
momentum perf intercooler
synapse bov
DW600s injectors
3inch MAF tube/intake

thus far also looking into a SSV manifold if anyone has 1 for sale.

 

i would request the ports in the heads be left along theres 0 reason to do them if your going for under 800 mayby even under 1k

 

would this not benefit me any? also spoke with kyle at IPP about possibly running the C8 camshafts. i do plenty of road courses a year and not too much street driving. i read alot of good about these cams. should work well w the vortech aswell. any ideas. will be making final decisions within the next 24 hours and then ordering the long block. but i have decided to go with the IPP stage 2 long block. now what camshafts to run is the main concern

 

Man that was quick. Feels like I was just reading the build thread.

 

haha deff feels like it. but the car did give a good amount of time and saw tons of track time! it was a blast while the stock block lasted. i deff beat on here long and hard

http://www.flickr.com/photos/j-franco/8421094961/http://www.flickr.com/photos/j-franco/8421094961/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/j-franco/, on Flickr

 

bigger cams and ports flow more air for up high power but they kill power down low because they cut velocity. the stock ports flow tremendously well, better then 2jz heads and the vq35 makes pretty decent torque to boot so velocity is obviously still there. if your going to go with something like that then your going to need the airflow to back it up the supercharger is going to start to run out of steam up top where the cams are made to operate. either need a bigger supercharger or a turbo kit instead, i can tell you right now the stock cams will support 600 hp/ft lbs of torque np at least with a turbo the same sized supercharger on that setup with the same boost would only be in the 525-550 range its retarded how much power superchargers drain. the advantage of the bigger cams is they will right shift the power band and in theory help with traction because they arnt needed for power production thats for sure. a big power band is good for a road course car, narrow power band huge cams are good for drag cars.

 

FWIW, full assembled long block just mean heads bolted to block and cams installed and valve lash set.

Still have to all your own timing, and oil pans. If you cant do that, it will be a couple grand more for sure.

I'd just get the basic eagle rods, cylinder bore to 96.5mm, whatever brand 10:1 pistons, L19 studs short block, bolt on your heads and call it a day.

 

yes i will be doing the rest. so you wouldnt go with cams at all?

 

CAMS!!!

 

can anyone attest to a large cam on a supercharger? if im not mistaken i saw many videos of sentry (think thats who) and many others who made good power off cams with there vortech setups.

 

I'm putting Kelford cams (266/260) in my Vortech build... Not going for crazy big that will be all lopey though, especially on a SC set up... They also won't lose too much down low but will help to open it up at the mid to upper ranges. Link to them: http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=1068

I may also have a SSV available soon if you are interested. My G is at Dynosty right now, I have a Cosworth that is going to be installed there. May be able to ship straight from Dynosty to you once they get it off.

 

awesome would love to read about your build have a thread? if not do u mind posting specs on build? stock impeller? t trim? 928m? also send me a pm about that ssv im deff interested. im looking at either the jwt c2's or the jwt c8s

spec cards here http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...INCL_REVUP.pdf

c2 261 c8 272 thought on the c8 being too much?

 

Here you go, here is a link to my build thread: https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...y-dynosty.html

I have a V2 SC trim blower that I am sending off to 928 and getting the impeller as well as the full rebuild with new bearings and seals. I figure now is a good time to have the internals gone over so it's good to go with the new block.

On the cams, personally I think the 272's would be too much and would give you a rough and lopey idle but I am NOT an engine builder so I defer to those that know more on the subject than I... You can put a .338 Lapua in my hands tell me to break it down, put it back together and take out the guy on the next mountain and I can get the job done but when it comes to engines I take more advice than I give out.

I'll find out where they are in the breakdown and if it is possible for them to ship the SSV directly from there and PM you when I have more info.

GL on your build!